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How to prep your Bow

Sld1959

Custom
Good article for the arrow shooters. I am a real archery snob and just cannot call all that gadgetry archery.

For me. String recurve, wax string, shoot recurve. I'd you really need to put on new string, put on string check brace height, twist or untwist string to change brace height, and put on new nock point.
 

iklwa

Master Class
Good article for the arrow shooters. I am a real archery snob and just cannot call all that gadgetry archery.

For me. String recurve, wax string, shoot recurve. I'd you really need to put on new string, put on string check brace height, twist or untwist string to change brace height, and put on new nock point.
Too simple...you should need a degree in order to set up your bow.
A degree in mechanical engineering or nuclear science should do it.
 

Recusant

Custom
My son was very successful with his cross-bow last season.

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iklwa

Master Class
At one time I was very involved with compound archery. I learned to MARK EVERYTHING.
Mark the idler wheels/cams where the strings/cables cross them. Use permanent marker. That way if something slips or stretches you will have ready visual reference.
One time I had a custom ordered set of string and cable installed by the local "professional" archery shop. When he handed it back to me, the draw cycle felt weak. When put on the scale, it was 20 pounds light.
I looked at the marks made on my previously highly tuned bow, and they were nowhere close to the original settings. Twisting the cable and string harness brought everything back into "tune".
The cable/string set was top tier.
The "technician" was not.

Blue Loctite is another wonderful invention that has multiple applications on archery equipment as well as for firearms.

i found bare shaft tuning to be extremely effective to determine true center shot.
The eyeball can come close but quad limbs are not all manufactured alike and exert unequal forces on a released arrow. Markings on a riser should be taken as starting or reference points and not the end-all, be-all for tuning.

I have also found many shops lean toward the heavy draw weight; fast/lightweight shaft set up.
I am a firm believer in a moderate to heavy shaft travelling at moderate velocity with a heavy point.
The draw cycle and the shot is smoother and the shot is much easier to quieten.

It would seem my choice of archery equipment closely mirrors my preferences in firearms.
Of course, a 7mm Remington Magnum is fun to play with too!
It has its purposes but there are other less frenetic solutions to big game hunting (375 H&H) and plinking.
Just take everything you are told by a technician with a large dose of salt and believe almost nothing you read on the internet (including this post!).
 
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