testtest

is it too much to ask, for the money we spend..???

Old_Me

Ronin
i just minutes ago, got my FedEx package from Ed Brown. i had ordered an all metal MSH (main spring housing) for my Colt Competition 1911.

of course, that means the original one is ALL PLASTIC.

my cheap(er) Tisas, and 2 Rock Island Armory 1911's, ALL had metal MSH's...

but noooo.......an expensive gun like the Colt...??

and they put a stinking plastic one in..???

many other of my 1911's had an all metal MSH, and yet some others were plastic...

i absolutely DO NOT trust, that tiny pin holding back that 14 lbs(??) spring, in the upper corner.

to me, it's "flimsy", and cheapens the overall price of the gun, and possible reliability

i have been buying Ed Brown products for some time now

this is the original MSH, see that tiny hole at the top right corner..??

that is where, like what, a 14 lbs spring is pushing on...???
1669846874117.png


and the backside..

1669846896977.png


there was a selection of Ed Brown housings to choose from, and of course, prices too.

i paid about $50 for the one i got.

takes all of about 5 minutes to install, from gathering the tools, and putting everything away

but Jesus H. Cow....why do they "cheap out" when you are paying so much for a nice gun..????

is it any wonder some of the cheaper brands, (Tisas, RIA) have a following...????
 
i just minutes ago, got my FedEx package from Ed Brown. i had ordered an all metal MSH (main spring housing) for my Colt Competition 1911.

of course, that means the original one is ALL PLASTIC.

my cheap(er) Tisas, and 2 Rock Island Armory 1911's, ALL had metal MSH's...

but noooo.......an expensive gun like the Colt...??

and they put a stinking plastic one in..???

many other of my 1911's had an all metal MSH, and yet some others were plastic...

i absolutely DO NOT trust, that tiny pin holding back that 14 lbs(??) spring, in the upper corner.

to me, it's "flimsy", and cheapens the overall price of the gun, and possible reliability

i have been buying Ed Brown products for some time now

this is the original MSH, see that tiny hole at the top right corner..??

that is where, like what, a 14 lbs spring is pushing on...???
View attachment 33022

and the backside..

View attachment 33023

there was a selection of Ed Brown housings to choose from, and of course, prices too.

i paid about $50 for the one i got.

takes all of about 5 minutes to install, from gathering the tools, and putting everything away

but Jesus H. Cow....why do they "cheap out" when you are paying so much for a nice gun..????

is it any wonder some of the cheaper brands, (Tisas, RIA) have a following...????
You ever gave one fail? If not, they must work.
 
that's the thing, many have said they work...

i have no confidence in that tiny pin in the corner.

besides, i bought a metal gun......i expect it all the be metal (with the exception of the grips)

doesn't "make sense" cheaper 1911's have metal, and a more expensive one is cheapy....
No it doesn’t but that’s the way it is anymore, Kimber has used them for years and I haven’t heard of any issues with them, wait till you learn that most of the internals are MIM, which are fine if done right, Kimber, S&W, Springfield, Ruger, Glock, Colt all use MIM internals now, be it a metal or polymer gun
 
i just minutes ago, got my FedEx package from Ed Brown. i had ordered an all metal MSH (main spring housing) for my Colt Competition 1911.

of course, that means the original one is ALL PLASTIC.

my cheap(er) Tisas, and 2 Rock Island Armory 1911's, ALL had metal MSH's...

but noooo.......an expensive gun like the Colt...??

and they put a stinking plastic one in..???

many other of my 1911's had an all metal MSH, and yet some others were plastic...

i absolutely DO NOT trust, that tiny pin holding back that 14 lbs(??) spring, in the upper corner.

to me, it's "flimsy", and cheapens the overall price of the gun, and possible reliability

i have been buying Ed Brown products for some time now

this is the original MSH, see that tiny hole at the top right corner..??

that is where, like what, a 14 lbs spring is pushing on...???
View attachment 33022

and the backside..

View attachment 33023

there was a selection of Ed Brown housings to choose from, and of course, prices too.

i paid about $50 for the one i got.

takes all of about 5 minutes to install, from gathering the tools, and putting everything away

but Jesus H. Cow....why do they "cheap out" when you are paying so much for a nice gun..????

is it any wonder some of the cheaper brands, (Tisas, RIA) have a following...????
That little pin hole your talking about that I circled in your pic does not have any stress associated with the main spring, the circle I made at bottom of the pic is where the pin that holds the MSH on, the MSH rests on this pin, the spring is pushing down on the MSH, but since the MSH is resting on this pin, there is really no stress….FYI Also I include a 1911 diagram to show you what I mean
9C7E6392-06F4-4BE6-85AF-DA53FB87B3C2.jpeg
64C74E80-1BC7-40A5-90E3-6D238148BB81.jpeg
 
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That little pin hole your talking about that I circled in your pic does not have any stress associated with the main spring, the circle I made at bottom of the pic is where the pin that holds the MSH on, the MSH rests on this pin, the spring is pushing down on the MSH, but since the MSH is resting on this pin, there is really no stress….FYI Also I include a 1911 diagram to show you what I mean
View attachment 33039View attachment 33040
well, here is the way, "i see it".....the spring is between parts # 25 & 29, and pushing on part #26 there is going to be pressure against both those parts, no matter what.

the bottom or the MSH is "beefier" than that tiny pin hole, the weaker part. (if it were a drive line, and say the driveshafts U-Joints were OEM and not racing ones, than those would be the weak link)

now true, that, IF and i say IF that pin hole should crack (in time) that spring is still with-in that housing, so it really ain't gonna go no where..

however IF and i say IF that should happen..??

then wouldn't you agree at that time, a replacement becomes necessary..??

i'd rather replace now, and have trouble free shooting, than to leave the range all ticked off, that a cheap plastic part failed.

i have not even considered replacing any triggers yet. some 1911's that i have are MIM, i can be sure of that. i think my D/W's are metal, but i'll have to re-check that later.

should i want to (someday) replace any trigger, i will seek out an all metal one, over an MIM.

the extractor(s) on some of my 1911's are MIM as well, i see no need to replace any of those.

i just "feel" that for the money spent, it should all be "real" metal....again, why do the Tisas, and Rock Island 1911's, come standard with an all metal MSH..??

shouldn't a "cheaper" gun be nearly all plastic then, for the prices paid..???

in this thread.... https://www.thearmorylife.com/forum/threads/most-expensive-handgun-ive-ever-held.13337

i did not want to respond, to the most expensive i ever held.....cuz most of you know, i bought the NightHawk Custom, Korth Mongoose 38/357 revolver....

at a whopping $6,000 + taxes

do you realistically think i'd be happy seeing plastic parts at that price..???

roller bearings rather than bushings, real walnut grips (or stocks) silver DLC finish...

when any of us pay for a higher dollar item, i think it's well with-in our "rights??" to expect higher quality parts.
 
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well, here is the way, "i see it".....the spring is between parts # 25 & 29, and pushing on part #26 there is going to be pressure against both those parts, no matter what.

the bottom or the MSH is "beefier" than that tiny pin hole, the weaker part. (if it were a drive line, and say the driveshafts U-Joints were OEM and not racing ones, than those would be the weak link)

now true, that, IF and i say IF that pin hole should crack (in time) that spring is still with-in that housing, so it really ain't gonna go no where..

however IF and i say IF that should happen..??

then wouldn't you agree at that time, a replacement becomes necessary..??

i'd rather replace now, and have trouble free shooting, than to leave the range all ticked off, that a cheap plastic part failed.

i have not even considered replacing any triggers yet. some 1911's that i have are MIM, i can be sure of that. i think my D/W's are metal, but i'll have to re-check that later.

should i want to (someday) replace any trigger, i will seek out an all metal one, over an MIM.

the extractor(s) on some of my 1911's are MIM as well, i see no need to replace any of those.

i just "feel" that for the money spent, it should all be "real" metal....again, why do the Tisas, and Rock Island 1911's, come standard with an all metal MSH..??

shouldn't a "cheaper" gun be nearly all plastic then, for the prices paid..???

in this thread.... https://www.thearmorylife.com/forum/threads/most-expensive-handgun-ive-ever-held.13337

i did not want to respond, to the most expensive i ever held.....cuz most of you know, i bought the NightHawk Custom, Korth Mongoose 38/357 revolver....

at a whopping $6,000 + taxes

do you realistically think i'd be happy seeing plastic parts at that price..???

roller bearings rather than bushings, real walnut grips (or stocks) silver DLC finish...

when any of us pay for a higher dollar item, i think it's well with-in our "rights??" to expect higher quality parts.
It's like anything else though. You do your research and decide which products you want to spend your money on. I know plenty of guys who buy MIM Fender guitars for about $500 and then spend another $500 to change the wiring and the pickups, machine heads, bridge, etc. and consider themselves as getting a good deal. I am a guy however who would, and has, found used MIA Telecasters for under a grand that already have the things I want on them. New those guitars are in the $1800 range.

My point is if you like the gun enough you will buy it. If the MSH bothers you, you will replace it. Or you'll just buy a different gun to begin with. It's all market capitalism brother.
 
well, here is the way, "i see it".....the spring is between parts # 25 & 29, and pushing on part #26 there is going to be pressure against both those parts, no matter what.

the bottom or the MSH is "beefier" than that tiny pin hole, the weaker part. (if it were a drive line, and say the driveshafts U-Joints were OEM and not racing ones, than those would be the weak link)

now true, that, IF and i say IF that pin hole should crack (in time) that spring is still with-in that housing, so it really ain't gonna go no where..

however IF and i say IF that should happen..??

then wouldn't you agree at that time, a replacement becomes necessary..??

i'd rather replace now, and have trouble free shooting, than to leave the range all ticked off, that a cheap plastic part failed.

i have not even considered replacing any triggers yet. some 1911's that i have are MIM, i can be sure of that. i think my D/W's are metal, but i'll have to re-check that later.

should i want to (someday) replace any trigger, i will seek out an all metal one, over an MIM.

the extractor(s) on some of my 1911's are MIM as well, i see no need to replace any of those.

i just "feel" that for the money spent, it should all be "real" metal....again, why do the Tisas, and Rock Island 1911's, come standard with an all metal MSH..??

shouldn't a "cheaper" gun be nearly all plastic then, for the prices paid..???

in this thread.... https://www.thearmorylife.com/forum/threads/most-expensive-handgun-ive-ever-held.13337

i did not want to respond, to the most expensive i ever held.....cuz most of you know, i bought the NightHawk Custom, Korth Mongoose 38/357 revolver....

at a whopping $6,000 + taxes

do you realistically think i'd be happy seeing plastic parts at that price..???

roller bearings rather than bushings, real walnut grips (or stocks) silver DLC finish...

when any of us pay for a higher dollar item, i think it's well with-in our "rights??" to expect higher quality parts.

FWIW, a plastic—or MIM—MSH doesn’t bother me. It’s a low chance of failure point part that really doesn’t take much stress. I also don’t fret much about a MIM grip safety.

The rest of my 1911 FCG? Forged tool steel, please.
 
It's like anything else though. You do your research and decide which products you want to spend your money on. I know plenty of guys who buy MIM Fender guitars for about $500 and then spend another $500 to change the wiring and the pickups, machine heads, bridge, etc. and consider themselves as getting a good deal. I am a guy however who would, and has, found used MIA Telecasters for under a grand that already have the things I want on them. New those guitars are in the $1800 range.

My point is if you like the gun enough you will buy it. If the MSH bothers you, you will replace it. Or you'll just buy a different gun to begin with. It's all market capitalism brother.
FWIW, a plastic—or MIM—MSH doesn’t bother me. It’s a low chance of failure point part that really doesn’t take much stress. I also don’t fret much about a MIM grip safety.

The rest of my 1911 FCG? Forged tool steel, please.
yeah, the guys at the mom/pop gun store said like many have said in the past, it cuts costs, and weight....however, when a gun weighs in at about 3-4 pounds..??

will a plastic MSH mean that much weight was really saved..???

then one guy added..."when the bean counters get involved, things go cheap(er)"

yeah, when i like or want something, i'll buy it, if it works out, i will keep it or sell/trade it, like i have in the past.

it's just irksome at the cost levels of some nice guns, what they take away for the profits of the company.
 
well, here is the way, "i see it".....the spring is between parts # 25 & 29, and pushing on part #26 there is going to be pressure against both those parts, no matter what.

the bottom or the MSH is "beefier" than that tiny pin hole, the weaker part. (if it were a drive line, and say the driveshafts U-Joints were OEM and not racing ones, than those would be the weak link)

now true, that, IF and i say IF that pin hole should crack (in time) that spring is still with-in that housing, so it really ain't gonna go no where..

however IF and i say IF that should happen..??

then wouldn't you agree at that time, a replacement becomes necessary..??

i'd rather replace now, and have trouble free shooting, than to leave the range all ticked off, that a cheap plastic part failed.

i have not even considered replacing any triggers yet. some 1911's that i have are MIM, i can be sure of that. i think my D/W's are metal, but i'll have to re-check that later.

should i want to (someday) replace any trigger, i will seek out an all metal one, over an MIM.

the extractor(s) on some of my 1911's are MIM as well, i see no need to replace any of those.

i just "feel" that for the money spent, it should all be "real" metal....again, why do the Tisas, and Rock Island 1911's, come standard with an all metal MSH..??

shouldn't a "cheaper" gun be nearly all plastic then, for the prices paid..???

in this thread.... https://www.thearmorylife.com/forum/threads/most-expensive-handgun-ive-ever-held.13337

i did not want to respond, to the most expensive i ever held.....cuz most of you know, i bought the NightHawk Custom, Korth Mongoose 38/357 revolver....

at a whopping $6,000 + taxes

do you realistically think i'd be happy seeing plastic parts at that price..???

roller bearings rather than bushings, real walnut grips (or stocks) silver DLC finish...

when any of us pay for a higher dollar item, i think it's well with-in our "rights??" to expect higher quality parts.
I was just trying to let you know not to stress yourself about the MSH, it is a low stress part, but I understand completely, as for plastic faced triggers, yes, I don’t like them and that’s what has kept me from getting a Ronin 1911. As for MIM, I rather have a forged or tooled steel extractor than a MIM, I haven’t had any issues with mine, but I do keep a spare just in case. I also agree that for the price you pay for a good 1911, it should be metal, all over. Again I was only trying to relay to you not to put to much worry in the MSH being plastic, that’s all.
 
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