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Tips & Tricks: How to Easily Clean Your 1911 Pistol

Talyn

Talyn

SAINT
Founding Member
It’s not unusual for a new 1911 owner to struggle with the disassembly and reassembly required to clean the firearm correctly.

How to Easily Clean Your 1911 Pistol

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The 1911 was designed for military use and can be easily maintained if you know the proper procedure for cleaning the gun.
 
I always like these- you never know what technique or tidbit will be mentioned…

But did anyone notice the phrase “guide rod spring” used ( in reassembly, I think) ? Lol !
Wonder what that ol’ guide rod thingy operates??
🤔😃😇
 
Thanks Talyn this is the best article on tje subject follow these instructions step by step you can’t go wrong it’s remembering where the notches are must be perfectly lined up to take apart and put back together
 
HansGruber said:
And for those who want to take it a step further…

If you have a truly GI 1911/1911A1, you can detail strip it with no tools besides a cartridge.
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I’ve heard that before. Never seen it done though… I may have to search YouTube .
I’d hate to have to remove the firing pin on a modern one without some kind of small punch- or maybe the tip of the recoil spring??
 
How often do you guys fully strip your 1911 for a complete cleaning versus just a field strip? I'm about 860 rounds in on my Ronin and I haven't done a complete strip and clean, just some real good field strips after each trip to the range. Feeling like im due or maybe overdue.
 
Ve
ddeuce22 said:
How often do you guys fully strip your 1911 for a complete cleaning versus just a field strip? I'm about 860 rounds in on my Ronin and I haven't done a complete strip and clean, just some real good field strips after each trip to the range. Feeling like im due or maybe overdue.
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Very good ques; and I’m not the person to give a definitive answer. But I’ll take a chance and give some talking points at least:

A) the owners manual just might tell you. But diff manufacturers may have differing info. I’ve never understood why.

B) somewhere or another, it seems to me i read a number quoted in the thousands of rounds - 1k? 2k? 5k??

C) mine are probably in the 800-1k range too. I’ve never done a full detail strip but have remv’d firing pin & extractor. These two areas, unlike the lower frame, are of course closer to the chamber and the fouling it produces. Also, i prob use more oil than most shooters.

D) my frames have had grips removed and the insides hit with pray cleaner such as Tetra Action Blaster or Lucas Gun Contact cleaner pretty thoroughly using the plastic tube extension up in there. Being wary of taking all that apart, I thought the spray might handle it, and it seems to have done so. Always followed with lubricant where appropriate.
***
Not a lot of help above Deuce. But I think 860 rds is too early for it to be necessary to detail the whole thing.
Waiting to see what our experts here say :)
 
ddeuce22 said:
How often do you guys fully strip your 1911 for a complete cleaning versus just a field strip? I'm about 860 rounds in on my Ronin and I haven't done a complete strip and clean, just some real good field strips after each trip to the range. Feeling like im due or maybe overdue.
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I usually go 1.5-2k before deep cleaning, unless I’m seeing an issue that requires it earlier.
 
ddeuce22 said:
How often do you guys fully strip your 1911 for a complete cleaning versus just a field strip? I'm about 860 rounds in on my Ronin and I haven't done a complete strip and clean, just some real good field strips after each trip to the range. Feeling like im due or maybe overdue.
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i personally have not yet learned how to do a full strip of a 1911, only on Glocks, and that really, was easy.

however, i want practice disassembling a 1911 several times. especially the sear/disconnector set up.

for the time being, i'll only do a simple field strip, and maybe when i need to?

i'll just remove the grips and use a good spray cleaner for the internals.

as for a 1911 slide?

sure, i'll attempt to fully disassemble that, about the 1,000 round count.
 
Sadly it's easy to scratch the frame with the slide stop/release. I have nerve damage from a spine injury and it effects my hands on occasion. The technique I use is like a press check with my strong hand and insert the slide stop with my other hand as the small notch is over the top of the cut-out. Good instructions: I would have used more photos. Too many stock photos in the explanation section. Just take one of your 1911 out and snap some shots, it would be better to see a dirty gun get clean just some positive feedback. My SA Custom is stainless with cerakote and I often use very hot water and a bio degreaser in a small plastic container to dip it into and use a soft nylon brush to scrub the rails, bolt face, etc. Sometimes I dip the frame also if the magwell is filthy. I used some really filthy ammo a few years ago that shot well but left the pistol covered in powder and carbon, I started doing this then. I tend to stick to stainless guns and military type for convenience in cleaning: SA has plenty of great options for those like myself who appreciate a gun that will not oxidize quickly. SA Custom are the top of the heap and SA is a company that has stood behind their products for me over the years on multiple occasions. I have to give credit where it's due because I have had to RMA a number of other guns from various manufacturers and the turn around was egregious and customer support was far from the kind generous team at SA. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all!
 
Core said:
Sadly it's easy to scratch the frame with the slide stop/release. I have nerve damage from a spine injury and it effects my hands on occasion. The technique I use is like a press check with my strong hand and insert the slide stop with my other hand as the small notch is over the top of the cut-out. Good instructions: I would have used more photos. Too many stock photos in the explanation section. Just take one of your 1911 out and snap some shots, it would be better to see a dirty gun get clean just some positive feedback. My SA Custom is stainless with cerakote and I often use very hot water and a bio degreaser in a small plastic container to dip it into and use a soft nylon brush to scrub the rails, bolt face, etc. Sometimes I dip the frame also if the magwell is filthy. I used some really filthy ammo a few years ago that shot well but left the pistol covered in powder and carbon, I started doing this then. I tend to stick to stainless guns and military type for convenience in cleaning: SA has plenty of great options for those like myself who appreciate a gun that will not oxidize quickly. SA Custom are the top of the heap and SA is a company that has stood behind their products for me over the years on multiple occasions. I have to give credit where it's due because I have had to RMA a number of other guns from various manufacturers and the turn around was egregious and customer support was far from the kind generous team at SA. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all!
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Hey Core, I understand that hand/nerve problem. I suspect - but don’t know - I’ve got beginnings of arthritis myself…

One idea instead of the hot water & bio degreaser: I’ve been using old fashioned Ballistol recently. Mostly those individual wipes (10 per box; $5). But going to try some spray Balli in the frame, slide etc. put the slide back on alone & run the rails a couple times, work hammer up/down, trigger, safety, mag release etc…
then spray it all over again til gunk runs clean. Let it drip and later wipe all excess down and reassemble .
Might just work, and if not i can always degrease and use my old methods.
 
TidalWave said:
Hey Core, I understand that hand/nerve problem. I suspect - but don’t know - I’ve got beginnings of arthritis myself…

One idea instead of the hot water & bio degreaser: I’ve been using old fashioned Ballistol recently. Mostly those individual wipes (10 per box; $5). But going to try some spray Balli in the frame, slide etc. put the slide back on alone & run the rails a couple times, work hammer up/down, trigger, safety, mag release etc…
then spray it all over again til gunk runs clean. Let it drip and later wipe all excess down and reassemble .
Might just work, and if not i can always degrease and use my old methods.
Click to expand...
I myself did get some of those balli wipes they do work really well thanks tidal wave
 
TidalWave said:
Hey Core, I understand that hand/nerve problem. I suspect - but don’t know - I’ve got beginnings of arthritis myself…

One idea instead of the hot water & bio degreaser: I’ve been using old fashioned Ballistol recently. Mostly those individual wipes (10 per box; $5). But going to try some spray Balli in the frame, slide etc. put the slide back on alone & run the rails a couple times, work hammer up/down, trigger, safety, mag release etc…
then spray it all over again til gunk runs clean. Let it drip and later wipe all excess down and reassemble .
Might just work, and if not i can always degrease and use my old methods.
Click to expand...
I used this method with the old aero can of Powder Blast. I was also using CLP. When I finished my last enlistment I picked up an M9 to carry, and it's similar to a 1911 in that it has a lot of places to get fouling into. The Powder Blast worked reasonably well but it never seemed to get all the carbon/powder out of the crevices of the M9. The CLP was a good lube but I often had to brush and use solvents to get it clean. I ended up picking up a bio lube and it dissolved the carbon, powder, and fouling as it lubricated the pistol, and the one big eye opener was how much black residue leeched out of the pores of the metal. This was after cleaning with CLP. So at that point I switched to a bio lube. I also later discovered that Simple Green and hot water works very well with a nylon brush and it leaves the parts **** and span. I dip the frame upside down and brush it off so that I do not get water into the FCG and springs. I can detail strip my 1911 quickly now so it's not as much of a chore as it once was. My XD and Sig I just pull out the striker and springs and hot tank them.. lol I use the same method for my AR parts. Keep in mind I do not soak springs and wood grips and the FCG on the 1911. If your springs are stainless you can soak them, just dry them off well before giving them a light lube. I use a heat gun on low temp to dry the hard to reach places if need be.
 
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