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Two M1 Garands

Recusant

Hellcat
from my stash of Weapons of War! One is a Springfield in the 6 million range. The barrel is dated 4- 1956. All the parts are correct and appear to be the ones it left the factory with. The other M1 is a Harrington and Richardson with a 7-1954 barrel. It appears to be also correct, but I have misplaced my data sheets so I'm not 100% sure. Here a good resource to check out the parts on a M1: http://usriflecal30m1.com/Parts/PartsList.aspx

Springfield
Springfield 6 million range d.jpg

Springfield 6 million range a.jpg

6 mil Springfield c.jpg

Springfield and H & R
Springfield and H & R M1s b.jpg

Springfield and H & R M1s a.jpg

H & R 7-54.jpg

Springfield 4-56.JPG
 
My M1 is a Springfield Nov 1944. 3,273,XXX serial#.
Thought it was Oct 44, but its serial is in the early range for Nov 1944
All matching serial numbers in the bolt, receiver and hammer match code dates for July ‘44 thru Jan ‘45 production codes from Springfield.
My link I posted is a reference for all codes on every part of an M1 garand regardless of maker.

All my codes are for the batch series of Nov 1944 rifles, down to the hammer.

Barrel is dated May 1949 on a Depot level maintenance from Anniston Depot.
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Appears only the barrel was changed , as all other codes match on all parts from 1944

As I just acquired mine, it has not had a oil rubbing or cleaning by me yet.
Soon to come.
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from my stash of Weapons of War! One is a Springfield in the 6 million range. The barrel is dated 4- 1956. All the parts are correct and appear to be the ones it left the factory with. The other M1 is a Harrington and Richardson with a 7-1954 barrel. It appears to be also correct, but I have misplaced my data sheets so I'm not 100% sure. Here a good resource to check out the parts on a M1: http://usriflecal30m1.com/Parts/PartsList.aspx

Springfield View attachment 29943
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Springfield and H & R
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Incredibly beautiful battle rifles thanks for sharing. I love the wood on these guns.
 
from my stash of Weapons of War! One is a Springfield in the 6 million range. The barrel is dated 4- 1956. All the parts are correct and appear to be the ones it left the factory with. The other M1 is a Harrington and Richardson with a 7-1954 barrel. It appears to be also correct, but I have misplaced my data sheets so I'm not 100% sure. Here a good resource to check out the parts on a M1: http://usriflecal30m1.com/Parts/PartsList.aspx

Springfield View attachment 29943
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Springfield and H & R
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What do you use to oil them down ?
Linseed oil ?

They look really nice 👍
 
from my stash of Weapons of War! One is a Springfield in the 6 million range. The barrel is dated 4- 1956. All the parts are correct and appear to be the ones it left the factory with. The other M1 is a Harrington and Richardson with a 7-1954 barrel. It appears to be also correct, but I have misplaced my data sheets so I'm not 100% sure. Here a good resource to check out the parts on a M1: http://usriflecal30m1.com/Parts/PartsList.aspx

Springfield View attachment 29943
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Springfield and H & R
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THIS is why we need “drool” emoji’s.
 
What do you use to oil them down ?
Linseed oil ?

They look really nice 👍
I have used tung oil and boiled linseed oil. With the linseed oil I usually thin it down some with a solvent. Both of those stocks didn't require a lot of attention. The stock on the Springfield is from the S.E. Overton woodworking company and is a late production stock. Overton also supplied stocks to IHC and H & R, but by the time this rifle was produced they were no longer making M1s. Most of their left-over stocks were sent back to Springfield and used in for new builds. Remember that those stocks were put into tanks of raw linseed oil and soaked for a while. GI's oiled them some more after they were issued, and many were then packed away in Cosmoline for storage. Sometimes cleaning them with mineral oil is all they need, and others need a lot more attention:

Stripping your M1 Garand Stock Finish - GarandGear

Refinishing your M1 Garand Stock - GarandGear


There are many articles and UTube videos on how to go about refinising a stock. It takes time and patience. Sometimes it pays to buy an old abused stock to experiment on before working on one you want to keep.
 
I have used tung oil and boiled linseed oil. With the linseed oil I usually thin it down some with a solvent. Both of those stocks didn't require a lot of attention. The stock on the Springfield is from the S.E. Overton woodworking company and is a late production stock. Overton also supplied stocks to IHC and H & R, but by the time this rifle was produced they were no longer making M1s. Most of their left-over stocks were sent back to Springfield and used in for new builds. Remember that those stocks were put into tanks of raw linseed oil and soaked for a while. GI's oiled them some more after they were issued, and many were then packed away in Cosmoline for storage. Sometimes cleaning them with mineral oil is all they need, and others need a lot more attention:

Stripping your M1 Garand Stock Finish - GarandGear

Refinishing your M1 Garand Stock - GarandGear


There are many articles and UTube videos on how to go about refinising a stock. It takes time and patience. Sometimes it pays to buy an old abused stock to experiment on before working on one you want to keep.
I’m just looking to oil mine down to get rid of the dirt and grime on the surface.
Just clean it up and give a little luster. Not really refinish it
 
Please allow me to indulge some more. These are two babies that I didn't birth but I did build. I'm proud to say as a forum member that the 11-54 barrel in the Springfield I bought from Mr. Reese many years ago along with about a dozen others that all gauged new. I searched far and wide and found a stripped receiver in the correct serial number range that was right for a 11-54 barrel. It took me a while to find parts that matched in color and were not worn or refinished. The Beretta was a contract M1 for Denmark. Beretta was given Winchester's equipment to rearm NATO countries in about 1950. This M1 also started out as a receiver and was a project that took about 3 years to complete. It has a GI birch stock and a 10-66 Danish made (VAR) barrel. I could never find a decent PB made barrel and the VAR was the best choice. The other issue to overcome is that the Danes electric penciled serial numbers on bolt carriers. I didn't think this bolt carrier had a number on it when I ordered it off of ebay, but it did. However, it appears that the number on it is close to the number on the receiver. There are a few out there that are 100% correct, but they cost a small fortune. Both stocks were refinished and oiled many times. These are the ones that I shoot.

Springfield & Danish M1s.jpg


Springfield & PB.JPG

Springfield 11-54 Barrel.jpg

VAR M1 barrel.JPG

Danish receiver..jpg


Toys
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M1 Bayonets.jpg
 

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  • Springfield & Danish M1s.jpg
    Springfield & Danish M1s.jpg
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Please allow me to indulge some more. These are two babies that I didn't birth but I did build. I'm proud to say as a forum member that the 11-54 barrel in the Springfield I bought from Mr. Reese many years ago along with about a dozen others that all gauged new. I searched far and wide and found a stripped receiver in the correct serial number range that was right for a 11-54 barrel. It took me a while to find parts that matched in color and were not worn or refinished. The Beretta was a contract M1 for Denmark. Beretta was given Winchester's equipment to rearm NATO countries in about 1950. This M1 also started out as a receiver and was a project that took about 3 years to complete. It has a GI birch stock and a 10-66 Danish made (VAR) barrel. I could never find a decent PB made barrel and the VAR was the best choice. The other issue to overcome is that the Danes electric penciled serial numbers on bolt carriers. I didn't think this bolt carrier had a number on it when I ordered it off of ebay, but it did. However, it appears that the number on it is close to the number on the receiver. There are a few out there that are 100% correct, but they cost a small fortune. Both stocks were refinished and oiled many times. These are the ones that I shoot.

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Toys
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Functional, deadly and damn purty
 
Please allow me to indulge some more. These are two babies that I didn't birth but I did build. I'm proud to say as a forum member that the 11-54 barrel in the Springfield I bought from Mr. Reese many years ago along with about a dozen others that all gauged new. I searched far and wide and found a stripped receiver in the correct serial number range that was right for a 11-54 barrel. It took me a while to find parts that matched in color and were not worn or refinished. The Beretta was a contract M1 for Denmark. Beretta was given Winchester's equipment to rearm NATO countries in about 1950. This M1 also started out as a receiver and was a project that took about 3 years to complete. It has a GI birch stock and a 10-66 Danish made (VAR) barrel. I could never find a decent PB made barrel and the VAR was the best choice. The other issue to overcome is that the Danes electric penciled serial numbers on bolt carriers. I didn't think this bolt carrier had a number on it when I ordered it off of ebay, but it did. However, it appears that the number on it is close to the number on the receiver. There are a few out there that are 100% correct, but they cost a small fortune. Both stocks were refinished and oiled many times. These are the ones that I shoot.

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Toys
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That stock with tiger stripes is incredible. Love that wood.
 
Some folks have cleaned their stocks with Simple Green and reported good results. A good cleaning with mineral spirits first before oiling may be all you need to remove grease and dirt. Keep me posted.
Boiled linseed oil or tung oil is how I treat all my old rifles including muzzloaders
I'm just Curious. Do either of you cut the linseed oil with mineral spirits, paint thinner, etc.?

When done with the oil do you apply any paste wax or any other finishes?

I'm in the middle of refinishing my old Sears model 53 (Win model 70 remake) wood stock now and used the linseed oil cut with paint thinner for the first 2 applications.

I'm not worried about it being a professional job, it had just lost too much of its finish over the years out in the woods so it was time. It's a great .308 hunting rifle.
 
Linseed oil tends to darken with age. On walnut stocks linseed oil sometimes is what gives the wood a reddish hue. I used tung oil on mine and I believe I added a little acetone to thin it some. Wood seems to soak it up a little better when it is thinned. Mix up enough for several coats. Post pictures when you're done!
 
I use boiled linseed oil or tung oil depending on the lightness or darkness end result desired not thinned but rubbed into the grain of the wood by open hand. Rub the oil in with you palm or fingers you can feel it warm up by hand. Apply a second and third coat after letting it dry over night then I use Birchwood Casey's Gun stock wax after a day to finish and remove any remaining tacky feeling.
 
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