Hello all, here is today's article posted on TheArmoryLife.com. It is titled “Is Corrosive Ammo Bad (or Actually Okay)?” and can be found at https://www.thearmorylife.com/how-to-identify-corrosive-ammo/.
Is Corrosive Ammo Bad (or Actually Okay)?
- Thread starter Mike H.
- Start date
KillerFord1977
Emissary
Good info 
In the Army back in the day, trainees were told they'd get an Article 15 if they took their M-16 in the shower to clean it. Being young and dumb I just figured the water would rust everything and I've never used water to clean any gun since then. Well, look what I just learned, hot water and soap! That green weeny has been poking me all these years!
This article while useful actually over simplifies the issues surrounding corrosive ammo. Berdan or Boxer primers have little to do with corrosive priming compounds. There is Berdan primed military and civilian ammo that is non-corrosive and there is lots of older Boxer primed ammo that is corrosive. The spam can is also not a good indication as there is US and other military ammo packed in the cans which is non-corrosive, but also much which is not. The best bet is to clean the firearm as described anytime the issue is in doubt. I have used a lot of corrosive ammo over the years and aside from the hassle of cleaning with old GI bore cleaner or hot soapy water right away there were no problems.Hello all, here is today's article posted on TheArmoryLife.com. It is titled “Is Corrosive Ammo Bad (or Actually Okay)?” and can be found at https://www.thearmorylife.com/how-to-identify-corrosive-ammo/.
I have more Turkish 8mm that I can ever use. All I have fired, as well as other Commie Block 7.62x54 ammo. Only problem ever had was with Kynock 8mm ammo for the Greeks. Hard primers. I live in an arid environment so cleaning does not have to be instantaneous. Humidity activates the salts which causes corrosion. Bear in mind that older Brit ammo loaded with Cordite is erosive, not the same!
HansGruber
SAINT
Your M16 never, ever used corrosive ammunition.
Enjoyed your explanation of the best way to clean the firearm after using corrosive ammo.
Your statement: "As you have learned, potassium chlorate is plain old salt, and it will absorb moisture from the air, turning your prized possession into a rust bucket over time if not properly cleaned.", is not quite correct, as "plain old salt" is usually Sodium Chloride - and is just as corrosive as I learned when shooting my blued revolvers in the hot Summers in North Carolina and, when I forgot to clean and oil them afterwards, I discovered that a sweaty fingerprint had now become an unwanted "tattoo" on everyone of them!
Your statement: "As you have learned, potassium chlorate is plain old salt, and it will absorb moisture from the air, turning your prized possession into a rust bucket over time if not properly cleaned.", is not quite correct, as "plain old salt" is usually Sodium Chloride - and is just as corrosive as I learned when shooting my blued revolvers in the hot Summers in North Carolina and, when I forgot to clean and oil them afterwards, I discovered that a sweaty fingerprint had now become an unwanted "tattoo" on everyone of them!
Good Information. Well written, concise. Older ammo that is still viable (no physical indicates of damage) that is or may be corrosive may be fired successfully. Operator should be aware of the need to flush the barrel and corresponding parts with water or other cleaning agents soon as practical after firing.
In most cases ammo manufactured after 1959 used non corrosive components. Having used surplus ammo until it dried up. At some gun shows one can still find some but it is harder to find.
For the M16 I was told the same thing. No water Originals barrels were not lined. And as most already know you did not need to clean them. ( I remember it well) later models barrels were lined had the twist rate changed add forward assist and other items. The then issued a cleaning kit with the comic book.
In most cases ammo manufactured after 1959 used non corrosive components. Having used surplus ammo until it dried up. At some gun shows one can still find some but it is harder to find.
For the M16 I was told the same thing. No water Originals barrels were not lined. And as most already know you did not need to clean them. ( I remember it well) later models barrels were lined had the twist rate changed add forward assist and other items. The then issued a cleaning kit with the comic book.
One thing to help assure no water is hiding in some nook or cranny during the ‘drying’ phase is a quick squirt of WD40 (WD stands for ‘water displacing’ oil). It is very thin fluid and gets to places we can only speculate about.
Any water will be preferentially displaced to drain off or evaporate while floating on the oil layer. Then you can wipe away the WD40 and oil or grease as is your custom.
I still have a few spam cans of mil spec Russian ammo for a couple of soviet block firearms I own and shoot. Like many have said, I have had the habit since my teenage years of breaking down and cleaning my weapons after a day out in the desert. Live in Arizona so humidity is very seldom an issue and when it does get humid in the desert it is way too hot to want to shoot.Hello all, here is today's article posted on TheArmoryLife.com. It is titled “Is Corrosive Ammo Bad (or Actually Okay)?” and can be found at https://www.thearmorylife.com/how-to-identify-corrosive-ammo/.
Hello all, here is today's article posted on TheArmoryLife.com. It is titled “Is Corrosive Ammo Bad (or Actually Okay)?” and can be found at https://www.thearmorylife.com/how-to-identify-corrosive-ammo/.
A good article, however as others have said, the type of primer is no indicator of corrisiveness. If unsure, pull a bullet and fire the primed case about a foot from a piece of clean mild steel. Be sure to clean your gun as if it were corrosive. Within a few days depending on how humid it is you will see rust if it is corrosive.
When cleaning with soap and water, use the hottest water you can stand. It'll help the parts dry faster.
Jim
When cleaning with soap and water, use the hottest water you can stand. It'll help the parts dry faster.
Jim
OldGrunt
Professional
Back in my Army days while stationed at Fort Carson, we would take our crew served weapons into our barracks and clean them off with the hottest water we could get out of our showers. Certainly not an approved Army method for cleaning weapons, but it worked. They were thoroughly dried, cleaned and then oiled. It worked well. Never did do that during my Marine Corps days, though.
I bought a Mosin-Nagant back in the late '80s, and the only ammo available at that time was corrosive. I cleaned the rifle immediately, but it took three more successive cleanings to finally stop the rusting involved. Fortunately there is now non-corrosive ammo available, but I've decided never to use this rifle again anyway.
Fired 60 rounds 1943 British .303 surplus. I don't know if they were still uning cordite at that time, but I cleaned as if I were cleaning my 1873 trapdoor with black powder. I learned a lesson when I fired known corrosive in my 1903 !932 Springfield. Used Hoppe's #9. Much later (months) I checked the barrel and it was badly pitted. Had to get a new surplus 1942 barrel which fortunately, was not an 03A3 two groove. I have about 900 rounds of Yugo 8 mm Mauser for my 98. I clean with hot soapy water, but I do completely disassemble the rifle as illustrated with that SKS. I have no evidence of damage.
Having fired a lot of mil-surp corrosive, (I collect and shoot mil-surp firearms, and stacked surplus ammo high and deep when it was widely available and cheap) I recommend the hot soapy water... run the patched rod up and down the barrel (breech-end) while the front of the barrel is submerged, pumping the water up to the chamber. Rinse thoroughly in hot water and dry, then clean as normal. There is bore cleaner made for corrosive ammo, but I havent used or looked for it in many years.. Having seen the results of firing mildly corrosive Persian surplus in my Dad's (now my) K98k Mauser without cleaning -not my doing btw- I'm kinda anal about ID-ing corrosive ammo and through cleaning. The first few inches of the bore got pitted, no noticeable damage further up. Still shoots well, but damaging a real collectable... grrrr...
The use of wd-40 as a cleaner is a new one on me.. should work, it does displace water and protects from rust, but it ISNT a lubricant...
The use of wd-40 as a cleaner is a new one on me.. should work, it does displace water and protects from rust, but it ISNT a lubricant...
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True, but most all, non modern East Block surplus ,and any other WW2 ammo is corrosive. It is certainly not fatal to your bore, but especially in humid environments, running a damp/wet patch down the bore takes care of it. I probably have several thousand rounds of Turk, Romanian, British, and other ammo that fits the bill. Not throwing it away, though.