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Red Dot Drift?

M

McHenryDK

Alpha
I have the Hellcat RDP with the Hex Wasp Red Dot. When I first got the handgun, I found that the red dot was not zeroed in. I took it to a gunsmith, and he determined the red dot was bad. Springfield Armory replaced it, and the new red dot seemed to be working fine. I had to replace the battery on it, which means removing the red dot (poor design). When I put it back on, I used Lock-Tight, waited 24 hours for it to set, then used a laser bore sight to zero it in at about 10 yards. After a few live fire sessions, I notice I'm still a bit low left but much improved. I attended a class, and I was way off target. I asked the instructor to try it, and he determined the dot was off quite a bit and told me to zero it in again.
My question: has anyone else had an issue with the Hex Wasp red dot drifting after it's been zeroed in?
Now, the gun had not been dropped; I took very good care of it, so that is not the reason. If anyone has had this issue, let me know how you dealt with it.
 
I do not own one but have seen many people with trouble from those sights. if it were me i'd take it off and put a holosun or other on it. SA does not have have the best reputation when it comes to the sights they sell or give as promotions. i recently bought a saint victor 308 and the promotion was a crimson trace dot. sight came in broken and after i found out it was a 40 dollar sight i never even bothered to send it back in for replacement. i wasn't going to use it anyway on a 308.
 
McHenryDK said:
Thanks, Belt Fed, I'm going to zero the dot in again, but preparing to get a different one. I've heard good things about Holosun.
Click to expand...
Most of the issues with the WASP was battery drain, while I have several Springfield guns with dots, I took them off, I don’t think using a laser bore site is the way to go, could it be the way your holding the gun, jerking the trigger, low left is usually jerking the trigger, ask me how I know, I do the same at times.

1756480375978.jpeg
 
My trigger pull has been an issue, but I have improved quite a bit. In my post, I mentioned that I had the instructor test the gun, and it was still low left. I had him do it in case it was a bad habit of mine returning. So, it was not me it is the red dot. If you do not think zeroing in using a laser bore site, what do you suggest?
 
Something to think about is red dots don't correct for firing faults.

None-the-less, as others have said, extra promo goodies may not be of the highest quality.

fortac.com.au

Fault Correction Charts

Most shooters would have come across various types of marksmanship fault correction charts, such as the customary pistol correction chart shown below. They come in various styles, and can be found for both pistols and rifles, but what they all have in common is that they attempt to identify...
fortac.com.au fortac.com.au

1756482111746.png
 
I've used several different types of laser bore sight tools from the spud that goes in the end of the barrel to a specific cartridge to go in the chamber. Every one of them would change positions when removed and reinstalled, they are just barely good enough to get on paper.
 
As already mentioned, any zeroing must be done in the most stable, vice-like conditions you can find. My 9mm cartridge-style laser bore-sight is at best 9" off at 12 yards....and when you spin the laser cartridge in the chamber, that 9" spins all around the POA. Bore lasers are NOT reliable...
 
Hi,

I agree that the best way to zero an optic is from a rest. That being said, I have found that the G-Sight ELMS laser cartridge is pretty dang accurate. I have several for 9mm and .45ACP. It's a high quality unit that fits the chamber snugly and hits the same spot a live round would. Here is their accuracy test...

vimeo.com

ELMS ACCURACY TEST 9MM

This is "ELMS ACCURACY TEST 9MM" by G-Sight on Vimeo, the home for high quality videos and the people who love them.
vimeo.com

I think the G-Sight laser cartridges will get you very close if you want to zero when dry firing. If you're interested...

https://g-sight.com/

I should mention that, even after zeroing the Holosun on my XD9 Mod.3, I still hit low-left if I don't pay attention to all the fundamentals. I have the targets to prove it. :LOL:

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
McHenryDK said:
I have the Hellcat RDP with the Hex Wasp Red Dot. When I first got the handgun, I found that the red dot was not zeroed in. I took it to a gunsmith, and he determined the red dot was bad. Springfield Armory replaced it, and the new red dot seemed to be working fine. I had to replace the battery on it, which means removing the red dot (poor design). When I put it back on, I used Lock-Tight, waited 24 hours for it to set, then used a laser bore sight to zero it in at about 10 yards. After a few live fire sessions, I notice I'm still a bit low left but much improved. I attended a class, and I was way off target. I asked the instructor to try it, and he determined the dot was off quite a bit and told me to zero it in again.
My question: has anyone else had an issue with the Hex Wasp red dot drifting after it's been zeroed in?
Now, the gun had not been dropped; I took very good care of it, so that is not the reason. If anyone has had this issue, let me know how you dealt with it.
Click to expand...
The Hex Wasp is well known as a mediocre optic at best. A bore sight laser is good for getting in the ballpark, but you can’t expect to on the bull, you’ll still have to tweak. A proper boresight is the way to go, those little lasers that fit in the chamber are a waste of time. As for bottom mounting batteries, they are not terribly convenient, but they are not a bad design because they allow the optic to sit much lower on the slide than a top mounted design. I use quite a few bottom mounted optics and find that when I take them off and put them back on they are usually still zeroed or easily adjusted.
 
SimonRL said:
The Hex Wasp is well known as a mediocre optic at best. A bore sight laser is good for getting in the ballpark, but you can’t expect to on the bull, you’ll still have to tweak. A proper boresight is the way to go, those little lasers that fit in the chamber are a waste of time. As for bottom mounting batteries, they are not terribly convenient, but they are not a bad design because they allow the optic to sit much lower on the slide than a top mounted design. I use quite a few bottom mounted optics and find that when I take them off and put them back on they are usually still zeroed or easily adjusted.
Click to expand...
If your iron sights "Co-witness" with the optic, setting the dot on the tip of the front post is the easiest and fastest way to get in the ballpark. You'll still have to tweak it, but you'll be on paper unless the distance you're zeroing at is dramatically different.

There was a video someone posted here last week talking about "Slaving" your dot to the irons. The guy in the video was supremely annoying even if he was ( kind of) right. Content creators are like gun magazine writers. They all make mountains out of molehills. Yes, you should always zero your optics independently of your iron sights. I don't think I've ever heard anyone here or anywhere else say different, but all the hoopla about windage and elevation adjustments and the somewhat incorrect physics lesson he attempted to give were totally unnecessary.

For the record, it seems like all the irons on all my handguns are zeroed at 25 yards or 25 meters. I have all the optics zeroed at 15 yards. When I look through the optics the dots are not off on windage.

Full disclosure, I am not a bullseye shooter like you and Killer. At least not with my carry guns. Maybe when I'm a bit older I'll spend some time standing still 15-25 yards from a static target and trying to make one ragged hole. Right now though that isn't something that interests me much. When zeroing, from a rest, when I put a group of 3 in the bull that optic is zeroed.
 
Bassbob said:
If your iron sights "Co-witness" with the optic, setting the dot on the tip of the front post is the easiest and fastest way to get in the ballpark. You'll still have to tweak it, but you'll be on paper unless the distance you're zeroing at is dramatically different.

There was a video someone posted here last week talking about "Slaving" your dot to the irons. The guy in the video was supremely annoying even if he was ( kind of) right. Content creators are like gun magazine writers. They all make mountains out of molehills. Yes, you should always zero your optics independently of your iron sights. I don't think I've ever heard anyone here or anywhere else say different, but all the hoopla about windage and elevation adjustments and the somewhat incorrect physics lesson he attempted to give were totally unnecessary.

For the record, it seems like all the irons on all my handguns are zeroed at 25 yards or 25 meters. I have all the optics zeroed at 15 yards. When I look through the optics the dots are not off on windage.

Full disclosure, I am not a bullseye shooter like you and Killer. At least not with my carry guns. Maybe when I'm a bit older I'll spend some time standing still 15-25 yards from a static target and trying to make one ragged hole. Right now though that isn't something that interests me much. When zeroing, from a rest, when I put a group of 3 in the bull that optic is zeroed.
Click to expand...
I’m a bullseye shooter to challenge myself as I could mag dump with the best of them. I’m a speed freak.
When I do shoot n move drills and cqb, conceal/cover, etc, I’m satisfied with a larger spread, but to a degree.
My weakness is rifle out past 300 yards. That will be my next quest
 
KillerFord1977 said:
I’m a bullseye shooter to challenge myself as I could mag dump with the best of them. I’m a speed freak.
When I do shoot n move drills and cqb, conceal/cover, etc, I’m satisfied with a larger spread, but to a degree.
My weakness is rifle out past 300 yards. That will be my next quest
Click to expand...
I know you guys aren't strictly target shooters brother. My post was a testament to MY deficiency and not intended to insinuate you had one.

Other than the one .223w I built, none of my AR style rifles have magnified optics on them and other than some cursory shots at a steel silouhette out on the 200 yard line I train with them at 100 yards and in.
 
i found when i went to the optic on the hellcat it was ME that was doing the drift
irn sights and optic were married at in my eyes at 25 feet. but my body was over correcting when i THOUGHT about the shot to much
if i let the natural phase happen , i did much better
you may need one of these targets if it keeps up :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
seriously the ones above are what i use on first go if its been a week or so away from range, they tell the tale with no bias or love
 

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Bassbob said:
I know you guys aren't strictly target shooters brother. My post was a testament to MY deficiency and not intended to insinuate you had one.

Other than the one .223w I built, none of my AR style rifles have magnified optics on them and other than some cursory shots at a steel silouhette out on the 200 yard line I train with them at 100 yards and in.
Click to expand...
One of the issues that Killer and I have is that the availability of places where we can actually run and gun are far and few between and what there is is pretty pricey. I’d like to buy 10 acres of land I could shoot on, but that’s not likely to happen anytime, so I’ll just have to settle for being an indoor stud.
 
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