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Do I wanna rock 🤘

Sharks79

Professional
All of the pieces have come in and I’m putting my QD muzzle devices on a few weapons and to rocksett or not rocksett? I plan to torque em on but this is the first I’m doing this so looking for feedback from those in the know. The weapons will be fired probably 60/40 mix of suppressed and non-supressed. So far when firing Kuna suppressed with can direct thread i did get some walk off and had to tighten down a couple of times but that was hand tight, no torqued with a wrench.

Thoughts?
 
I’ll give this input. There are times when my Sandman needs quite a bit of cranking to remove. The mount has yet to budge (rock set), not saying my grip is set to foot pounds of torque. I’m happy enough it’s solidly mounted. My thinking was, if OEM decided rockset was needed to mount nothing…
 
Got some from Amazon coming tomorrow. it’s not magic juice and still will check but figure why not since i won’t be removing the muzzle device on these firearms
 
make sure it's not pinned.............other than that if they used red loc-tite, it's still an easy removal. crush washer or no o the factory device?
Not pinned, but from what I’m reading it’s a bear to get off. i have a propane and Map torch if needed. I’m not sure on crush, but it’s tapered down to the threaded bit. The factory device is their clutch-lok QD flash hider.
 
Not pinned, but from what I’m reading it’s a bear to get off. i have a propane and Map torch if needed. I’m not sure on crush, but it’s tapered down to the threaded bit. The factory device is their clutch-lok QD flash hider.
w/o a crush washer it's either timed and or w/ thread lock of some sore. good news is when heating it up make sure the barrel is in a barrel vice as not to unscrew from the barrel extension..oh forget that, it's a straight blowback right?........well it'll still have an extension if the barrel isn't threaded onto the receiver. i can't find enough info on the www. on very tough to get off threaded items it's good to tighten before loosening. it breaks the lock better. working it back and forth until enough (about 1/4 of the threads) of the threads are exposed. in engine rebuilding we froze the wrist pins and heated the pistons on pressure fit pins. that expands the outer area and shrinks the inner area. try not to heat the barrel at all or little as possible. someone else on here asked the same question about the kuna muzzle device removal..........don't remember the thread title, but iirc xd gave them some help as he had hands on knowledge.............i think @Belt Fed has 1 also?
 
w/o a crush washer it's either timed and or w/ thread lock of some sore. good news is when heating it up make sure the barrel is in a barrel vice as not to unscrew from the barrel extension..oh forget that, it's a straight blowback right?........well it'll still have an extension if the barrel isn't threaded onto the receiver. i can't find enough info on the www. on very tough to get off threaded items it's good to tighten before loosening. it breaks the lock better. working it back and forth until enough (about 1/4 of the threads) of the threads are exposed. in engine rebuilding we froze the wrist pins and heated the pistons on pressure fit pins. that expands the outer area and shrinks the inner area. try not to heat the barrel at all or little as possible. someone else on here asked the same question about the kuna muzzle device removal..........don't remember the thread title, but iirc xd gave them some help as he had hands on knowledge.............i think @Belt Fed has 1 also?
Have both, sorry should have clarified. Kuna was a crush washer yes but i was able to get the stock device off that fairly simple (adjust wrench). The Sig MCX spear LT is the one I’ve heard removing their QD factory device is a bear.

I will be installing putting a non timed brake on the Kuna, and flash hiders on my MCX spear let (short stroke) and a sig m400 tread direct impingement rifle

Sorry i wasn’t clear! Appreciate the input!
 
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