Hello all, here is today's article posted on TheArmoryLife.com. It is titled “Ayoob: The 1911’s Strengths (and Weaknesses)?” and can be found at https://www.thearmorylife.com/ayoob-the-1911s-strengths-and-weaknesses/.
Ayoob: The 1911’s Strengths (and Weaknesses)?
- Thread starter Mike H.
- Start date
Annihilator
Hellion
Decent article, liked reading itHello all, here is today's article posted on TheArmoryLife.com. It is titled “Ayoob: The 1911’s Strengths (and Weaknesses)?” and can be found at https://www.thearmorylife.com/ayoob-the-1911s-strengths-and-weaknesses/.
GuyM
Alpha
Thanks for the 1911 article on Christmas morning!
I've got 45 years with the 45 1911 now. The Marines provided the first lessons and I learned to appreciate the 1911. When I got into law enforcement I was pleased that my PD was issuing Colt 45 1911's! Carried a 1911 through my entire LE career as well as carrying it off duty, while hiking, etc... Still carry one often.
Regards, Guy
I've got 45 years with the 45 1911 now. The Marines provided the first lessons and I learned to appreciate the 1911. When I got into law enforcement I was pleased that my PD was issuing Colt 45 1911's! Carried a 1911 through my entire LE career as well as carrying it off duty, while hiking, etc... Still carry one often.
Regards, Guy
Dchiefransom
Alpha
After reading, I had to check my CZ 75B SA in my Craft thumb-break holster. Thumb break doesn't snap if the hammer is cocked. Didn't get it to carry, but something I didn't know.
Nothing like a Massad Ayoob article on Christmas morning waiting for the coffee to finish brewing.
Nothing like a Massad Ayoob article on Christmas morning waiting for the coffee to finish brewing.
Anchorite
Master Class
There is the Israeli draw method.
Love my SA TRP Operator 10mm...I feel a full-frame 1911 is the ideal platform for 10mm. Smooth shooting, can practically do 10mm needlepoint at 25+ yards, and 8+1 should be 8 more than you need in just about any self defense situation, against two or four legged threats.
When mine is in the safe, it's in condition 2, but when it's on me, it's always condition 1. I have a Gunfighters, Inc lined kydex chest holster with good retention and which covers the thumb safety so it can't accidentally get snagged, but I also have a custom leather short-drop thigh holster with a silent snap strap that straps under the cocked hammer. Kenai for fishing and light hiking, thigh holster for backpacking and cold weather where I might be in a thick coat.
As the author says - no matter what, practice, practice, practice.
When mine is in the safe, it's in condition 2, but when it's on me, it's always condition 1. I have a Gunfighters, Inc lined kydex chest holster with good retention and which covers the thumb safety so it can't accidentally get snagged, but I also have a custom leather short-drop thigh holster with a silent snap strap that straps under the cocked hammer. Kenai for fishing and light hiking, thigh holster for backpacking and cold weather where I might be in a thick coat.
As the author says - no matter what, practice, practice, practice.
Once again a great article by Mas.
And like always it’s more about the driver than the car!!!
While a high cap 9 has its merits the only reason it is as popular is there is a I’ll call it a “mindset” by a lot that the phrase “easier to shoot” means I can have super fast split times with lots of BB’s instead of Deliberate shots that end the stuff!
I went from a 45 HK to a 9mm HK this year because we were allowed. However I am still qualified in the 45 and find I just like the round and don’t feel handicapped by anything outside a USPSA match (not knocking ISPSA matches or those that shoot but you wouldn’t enter a Tahoe in a NASCAR race and expect to compete)
Mi also carry a 1911 and 6 shot K frame tevokvers a LOT and most of the time off duty
And my son in his latter 30’s has gotten into 1911’s with a 4 1/4 TRP 45 classic and 45 cal Garrison
Nothing wrong with a 1911 still a great firearm!
And like always it’s more about the driver than the car!!!
While a high cap 9 has its merits the only reason it is as popular is there is a I’ll call it a “mindset” by a lot that the phrase “easier to shoot” means I can have super fast split times with lots of BB’s instead of Deliberate shots that end the stuff!
I went from a 45 HK to a 9mm HK this year because we were allowed. However I am still qualified in the 45 and find I just like the round and don’t feel handicapped by anything outside a USPSA match (not knocking ISPSA matches or those that shoot but you wouldn’t enter a Tahoe in a NASCAR race and expect to compete)
Mi also carry a 1911 and 6 shot K frame tevokvers a LOT and most of the time off duty
And my son in his latter 30’s has gotten into 1911’s with a 4 1/4 TRP 45 classic and 45 cal Garrison
Nothing wrong with a 1911 still a great firearm!
My pros: they can have a great trigger (and when they do, they tend to be very accurate), they’re slim, a timeless classic, parts are easy to find (but frequently require fitting, albeit minimal), customizable regarding aftermarket parts, easy to clean, ammo availability for all common models, and they’re surprisingly concealable.
My cons: obsolescent (but not obsolete), low capacity, heavier (but entirely manageable for most) recoil impulse, the pivoting link is a weak point (which is why the Hi-Power action is known as “The Browning Action”), slim, heavy, expensive for more modern variants, disassembly involves removing a spring loaded part that can take out an eyeball, ammo cost (unless you have a 9mm 1911, as I consider a 22 LR 1911 a blow-back replica), some do not feed modern hollow point (but also if it’s a subsonic 45 ACP, hollow points don’t respond as reliably in all scenarios, but .45 is a perfectly sufficient hole diameter)
Overall, a great BBQ gun and target/range pistol, but for carry there are better choices. Most medium to high-tier 1911s scream elegance and class.
My cons: obsolescent (but not obsolete), low capacity, heavier (but entirely manageable for most) recoil impulse, the pivoting link is a weak point (which is why the Hi-Power action is known as “The Browning Action”), slim, heavy, expensive for more modern variants, disassembly involves removing a spring loaded part that can take out an eyeball, ammo cost (unless you have a 9mm 1911, as I consider a 22 LR 1911 a blow-back replica), some do not feed modern hollow point (but also if it’s a subsonic 45 ACP, hollow points don’t respond as reliably in all scenarios, but .45 is a perfectly sufficient hole diameter)
Overall, a great BBQ gun and target/range pistol, but for carry there are better choices. Most medium to high-tier 1911s scream elegance and class.
There is some debate or perhaps confusion as to when the manual safety should be disengaged and this likely stems from whether or not a serious threat has been identified and how many of the “ability, opportunity, and jeopardy” components have been met. If you have your firearm holstered and a true*** threat is present and “needs” to be stopped – I was taught to disengage the thumb safety when the muzzle is visible in my peripheral vision. If I draw my firearm in other circumstances, e.g. I am working church security and hear gunshots coming from the children’s nursery, I may draw to a safe ready position, but keep the safety engaged until a threat is identified.
If you disagree, let me know your protocol and your rationale.
*** You should think through and visualize possible scenarios BEFORE you are confronted with reality and determine what is your “line” - at what point are you justified legally, morally, and ethically to shoot that person, i.e. “if I don’t shoot this person right now, he will very likely kill me or my loved one”.
I am sure many people have been taught different “rules”. As Mas notes, training, practice, and consistency are vital, as is knowing WHY you are doing whatever scheme you use. If “Uncle Fred told me to do it this way” is your reason, you will never be open to considering safer and more efficient ways.
As to carrying “cocked and locked”, I agree 100%. If someone is unable or unwilling to put in the reps to make deactivating the thumb safety automatic, they are far safer carrying something else. Dry fire reps are cheap…and much cheaper than no bang when you need a bang.
For some time, I didn’t understand why Mas recommended re-holstering with the thumb on the hammer, as I didn’t feel this would effectively prevent the hammer from moving. Then I realized that perhaps the biggest effect was the byproduct of engaging the grip safety. Rule 5: Listen to Mas!
Disassembly and Reassembly: Understandably, complete disassembly of the 1911/2011 can be intimidating…especially for an expensive tool. As George Patton said, “Do not take counsel of your fears.” There are excellent videos by Hilton Yam and others for FREE on the interwebs. It’s not as difficult as you think and it will give you greater insight into this tool’s operation and troubleshooting. Pro Tip: Learn how to tune the magazines!
One seeming downside is the price. This is pure economics of demand and inputs versus outputs. The high prices are more a function of the demand than the cost of production. Do these guns justify a high price? The high price for entry to the 1911/2011 club should be a clue.
Merry Christmas!
If you disagree, let me know your protocol and your rationale.
*** You should think through and visualize possible scenarios BEFORE you are confronted with reality and determine what is your “line” - at what point are you justified legally, morally, and ethically to shoot that person, i.e. “if I don’t shoot this person right now, he will very likely kill me or my loved one”.
I am sure many people have been taught different “rules”. As Mas notes, training, practice, and consistency are vital, as is knowing WHY you are doing whatever scheme you use. If “Uncle Fred told me to do it this way” is your reason, you will never be open to considering safer and more efficient ways.
As to carrying “cocked and locked”, I agree 100%. If someone is unable or unwilling to put in the reps to make deactivating the thumb safety automatic, they are far safer carrying something else. Dry fire reps are cheap…and much cheaper than no bang when you need a bang.
For some time, I didn’t understand why Mas recommended re-holstering with the thumb on the hammer, as I didn’t feel this would effectively prevent the hammer from moving. Then I realized that perhaps the biggest effect was the byproduct of engaging the grip safety. Rule 5: Listen to Mas!
Disassembly and Reassembly: Understandably, complete disassembly of the 1911/2011 can be intimidating…especially for an expensive tool. As George Patton said, “Do not take counsel of your fears.” There are excellent videos by Hilton Yam and others for FREE on the interwebs. It’s not as difficult as you think and it will give you greater insight into this tool’s operation and troubleshooting. Pro Tip: Learn how to tune the magazines!
One seeming downside is the price. This is pure economics of demand and inputs versus outputs. The high prices are more a function of the demand than the cost of production. Do these guns justify a high price? The high price for entry to the 1911/2011 club should be a clue.
Merry Christmas!
Well, not too heavy for me, but my pants, sometimes. I do have a shoulder holster however.Elegance and class they scream indeed my good fellow. If it’s too heavy for you, then get yourself one of those Tupperware ones.
… did I just say that out loud?
Anchorite
Master Class
Great analogy. I’ll have to borrow and give you credit when I use that line.
I don't carry a full frame 1911 when I'm wearing summer shorts and a t-shirt...unless I want to show everyone my skivvies and draw from my ankles while shuffling briskly. It's a perfect car gun though.
Concealed carry in public for me is for managing a strategic retreat while covering my family in an up-close mass shooting incident, or engaging a direct threat to me or my family if 1:1. In the middle of winter when I can wear a nice heavy coat, solid gun belt, and heavy, well-fitting jeans...maybe I'll consider the 1911. Otherwise, it's a compact striker-fired 9mm, enough to engage a direct, close-in threat. 10mm, bad*** though it may be, on a crowded street could end up being a liability depending on what the bad guy is wearing (or not). It will stop him, but might also drop a bystander behind him. I typically carry 175gr Critical Duty when urban / driving, and hardcast 200gr when in sidecountry or wilderness.
If it's a mass shooting situation up against someone with a long gun / Big Scary Black Rifle shooting from a distance, then running, ducking, and covering is the best defense. I have no illusions that I'm going to hunt down the shooter - that's LE's job, and I don't want to confuse them.
Anchorite
Master Class
Great choices.
Many years ago I decided that if I were to be in the wrong place at the wrong time (and that’s a big if as I am very conscious about my movements outside and away from my hacienda), the most likely contact with Tangos would be no more than two, and the Glock 19 is the smallest size (pistol) I would want to be armed with. I just don’t do the sub and micro pistols.
The other 96% of the time I’m perfectly content with my Colt Agent 38 Special. The 38/9mm are also my smallest caliber size for hostile contact.