S&w victory confusion
- Thread starter duetz
- Start date
Grayfox
Professional
If the serial number starts with a "V", its a victory model. Otherwise its an old Military and Police Model of 1905. In that case the nickel finish may be original. Check the sides of the grip frame and underside of the barrel for a "N" marking indicating a factory nickel finish.
Its definitely not original. Nickle with gold accents were fairly popular in the 60s into the 70s. In the current market, it hurts the value a lot.
JMHO, I'd guess about $400 tops. Personally, I'd pass.
Its definitely not original. Nickle with gold accents were fairly popular in the 60s into the 70s. In the current market, it hurts the value a lot.
JMHO, I'd guess about $400 tops. Personally, I'd pass.
BassCliff
Hellcat
Hi,
Welcome to the forum from the Wild Wild Upper Midwest!
Yes, some folks like aftermarket parts. For collectors, however, it hurts the resale value. But I think it looks pretty cool. I like the grips on it too. Are the grip panels wood or ploymer? I'd say Mr. @Grayfox is pretty close with his $400 value. Buy it for less if you can.
Edit: I did a quick look around on gunbroker.com. Depending on barrel length, the "Victory" models are listed between $250 and $800.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
Welcome to the forum from the Wild Wild Upper Midwest!
Yes, some folks like aftermarket parts. For collectors, however, it hurts the resale value. But I think it looks pretty cool. I like the grips on it too. Are the grip panels wood or ploymer? I'd say Mr. @Grayfox is pretty close with his $400 value. Buy it for less if you can.
Edit: I did a quick look around on gunbroker.com. Depending on barrel length, the "Victory" models are listed between $250 and $800.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
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Retired Bum
Master Class
The absolute maximum that I would give would be $400, if I were in love with the gun. As a bit of a S&W collector and 60 year shooter, I believe the price should be $300-350. It looks like a gun that likely came out of Mexico. Just my opinion.
Hi,
Plastic grips
Welcome to the forum from the Wild Wild Upper Midwest!
Yes, some folks like aftermarket parts. For collectors, however, it hurts the resale value. But I think it looks pretty cool. I like the grips on it too. Are the grip panels wood or ploymer? I'd say Mr. @Grayfox is pretty close with his $400 value. Buy it for less if you can.
Edit: I did a quick look around on gunbroker.com. Depending on barrel length, the "Victory" models are listed between $250 and $800.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliff
Grayfox
Professional
I may be mistaken but, I believe those are a set of Rogers grips from the 60s-70s and are made of Bakelite. These were quite popular with LEOs back then.
Grayfox
Professional
A different time and people had different views and values. Back in the day, customizing cheap mil-surps was a popular thing. Look at all the mil-surp rifles that got sporterized.
Check for any re-importation markings and cartridge chambering markings. Some Victory models were originally chambered in 38 S&W for use by the British during WWII. Upon re-importation, they were "re-chambered" to take 38 Special cartridges by lengthening the charge holes slightly. Unfortunately, these altered guns aren't safe to shoot as-is. The 38 S&W cartridge is slightly larger in diameter than 38 Special. Not good. The Victory models which were re-chambered thus will suffer split cases. Also, the bore/groove diameter for the 38 S&W is slightly larger (by about .002" to .003") than the 38 Special, so accuracy will likely suffer. On the other hand, if it IS a 38 S&W and hasn't been monkeyed with, it should be safe and reasonably accurate to shoot.
Plated finishes are not my thing, by the way. Just a personal opinion based upon personal experience with a factory plated Colt. They're gorgeous while the finish is intact, but the plating can be damaged by certain common gun cleaning solvents. Once damaged, the plating goes downhill FAST.
Plated finishes are not my thing, by the way. Just a personal opinion based upon personal experience with a factory plated Colt. They're gorgeous while the finish is intact, but the plating can be damaged by certain common gun cleaning solvents. Once damaged, the plating goes downhill FAST.
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Sorry for the second response, but I timed out on being able to edit my first...
My 2 cents worth as far as the value of the revolver: First of all, any collectible value for the gun has been erased. Look upon this as an old S&W that MIGHT be a useable shooter/beater gun. IF it was originally chambered in 38 S&W and remains so, factory ammo will be scarce and relatively expensive. Reloading will help, but factory made projectiles (.360" or .361" diameter) will also be relatively scarce and of limited variety. Casting your own slugs will help make shooting it a viable (maybe even fun) proposition. IF it was originally chambered in 38 Special, then the ammo availability / cost situation will be considerably improved, but it still will be only, at best, a "shooter grade" old revolver, and should be priced accordingly.
My 2 cents worth as far as the value of the revolver: First of all, any collectible value for the gun has been erased. Look upon this as an old S&W that MIGHT be a useable shooter/beater gun. IF it was originally chambered in 38 S&W and remains so, factory ammo will be scarce and relatively expensive. Reloading will help, but factory made projectiles (.360" or .361" diameter) will also be relatively scarce and of limited variety. Casting your own slugs will help make shooting it a viable (maybe even fun) proposition. IF it was originally chambered in 38 Special, then the ammo availability / cost situation will be considerably improved, but it still will be only, at best, a "shooter grade" old revolver, and should be priced accordingly.
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Agree on all points...
Grayfox
Professional
If the serial number on that hang tag is correct, 581087, that gun falls into a very large block listed in the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson ending in 1942 with serial number 700000. Best guess would put this gun as being from the late 1930s. Therefore it would be chambered in 38 Special and the nickel finish could be original.
But it still ain't worth much in that condition.
But it still ain't worth much in that condition.
Retired Bum
Master Class
I apologize for being so critical of the gun, but I see many people overspend on guns that are just atrocious. There are times that I have sold one of mine to prevent them from making a mistake they will not be able to recover their money nor will they be able to resell a firearm.
USMC6094
Professional
Believe me, I know, and I've partaken in my fair share of "sporterized" mil-surps, but that poor revolver truly got the bitter end
Sharp eyes, there, Grayfox! I didn't spot the serial # on the tag until you pointed it out.If the serial number on that hang tag is correct, 581087, that gun falls into a very large block listed in the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson ending in 1942 with serial number 700000. Best guess would put this gun as being from the late 1930s. Therefore it would be chambered in 38 Special and the nickel finish could be original.
But it still ain't worth much in that condition.
I love shooting me some older S&W revolver. They have a "sweet feel" to their DA trigger pull that just isn't present in their modern incarnations. I have a couple of my favorite local shops which seem to get more than their fair share of them and I keep my eyes peeled for a good value to buy from their inventory. If I find one that is mechanically sound but a little dinged or has an otherwise less-than-perfect finish at a reasonable price, I consider that to be a "shooter grade" that I don't feel guilty about putting a little increase in round count through. Some of these older guns are just too "perfect" and need to be picked up by a collector rather than a shooter. I'm solidly in the latter category, and, even if the "price is right", I will leave it for someone in the former group rather than buy it and "mess it up."