Recently I purchased a 1930's issue 7.62x54R Moisen Nagant. The rifle is in excellent condition, with a bright, shiny bore, with crisp, unworn rifling. The bolt is pristine, and the only wear is at the end of the barrel were the bayonett is attached. (I was told that this rifle was used only in a "classroom" to educate individuals about it's functions. Who knows if that is accurate). Upon my initial inspection of the rifle, the finish on the stock was excellent. However, during the waiting period (background check and 72 hour waiting period), a store employee improperly "boxed" the rifle, allowing the sharp points of the included ammo pouches, that secure their leather "lid" straps, to come in contact with the wooden stock. After some obvious rough handling and jostling of the shipping box, there are now a few, fresh gouges in the stock that have penetrated the stock finish, exposing the wood beneath. Though not extreme, I would like to "seal" said damage with period correct material/sealant. (I have no desire to sell said rifle, so said repair is more about sealing the wood stock, and not about increasing it's value. And I understand that said repair may reduce it's "value".) Again, rather than just using polyurethane, I would like to use the period correct sealing material, out of pure respect for the firearm. Can anyone help??
Correct material to repair a few "scars" in the wood stock of a 1930's Nagant
- Thread starter Sheepdog
- Start date
Short answer: A good temporary preservative is sealing wax used for canning food or preserves.
It can be removed with mineral spirits once finding what repair sealant and finish you're searching for.
It can be renewed from time to time.
Long answer: Find good local cabinet maker to repair and touch up or finish that has good background in wood types and finishes. Not so easy anymore. Lots of techniques in cabinets and woodworking are almost extinct. - Ask around at LGS, they may have better clue to who does good work locally?
Fyi, I did apply a very high quality wood oil to the scarred areas the minute I got the rifle home. I have experience in wood working, and really want to know if the original sealant was a varnish or a lacquer. As the finnish is not dark, and the stock appears quite light/natural, the original sealant must have been nearly clear. However, I appreciate your suggestions! They obviously are quite sound.
Here's a good wood finish article. Looks to explain many different varieties of wood finishes over the years. Faster than I can type. Shows some hints and tips too. Good luck!
Finishes on Antique Wood Furniture
Many different finishes have been used to beautify and protect wood furniture through the centuries. Many historically authentic finishes were high maintenance, labor intensive, and …
www.harpgallery.com
Bob, you are far to kind!! I actually have some skill sets that may benefit you, if you ever are in need of advice/help. As I am quite new to this site, I assume that you may be able to contact me, if you ever need help. If that type of direct IM capability does not exist here. just reply to this thread and I should get an email notification. Forgive me, as I am a fairly old fart, but I definitely have some serious tech skills that my 15 year old still relies on from time to time. LOL I am digesting your link right now!Here's a good wood finish article. Looks to explain many different varieties of wood finishes over the years. Faster than I can type. Shows some hints and tips too. Good luck!
Finishes on Antique Wood Furniture
Many different finishes have been used to beautify and protect wood furniture through the centuries. Many historically authentic finishes were high maintenance, labor intensive, and …
P.S. Another thing or option that may help is touch up markers? Usually come in different wood shades. Some have finishes built in while others are just basically stain. A few brands are Olympic, Minwax, Guardsman (*Has finish built in.) there are many brands available. Can apply in layers for darker finish and or apply a mixture of colors too. Usually light, medium and dark. 0000 steelwool may help too. Rubbing in color with rag or tissue can help blend in too. One thing have noticed that older finishes have a brown tint while newer finishes have more of a red tint. Is almost impossible to know seeing pics. Color variations because of this or that usually show something other than what see up close and personal.
Thanks, hope info helps you out.
Old Fart? If not now, will be later? People are people to me.
I just do best can at any given time to help when can. ( Too many Boy Scout cookies?)
Take care
*Markers are available at most good home improvement stores.
HansGruber
SAINT
Nagants almost universally had an oil finish...as to what oil?
Whatever Comrade Stalin made available...
Whatever Comrade Stalin made available...
Exactly that.
Tung oil for example is and was very popular finish with many woodworkers. Mineral and motor oil and many others too. There's coffee stains as well as many other pigments. It's an endless art form.
HansGruber
SAINT
A lot of later-war Mausers were delivered to the Eastern Front with unfinished stocks, and soldiers would use whatever oil they could get their hands on to protect the wood...used/waste motor oil and sunflower oil, iirc, were commonly used.