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A Yost Hi-Power In .40 S&W: Custom Coolness

Talyn

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Note: This article also describes why the "Classic" BHP can barely handle the .40 S&W. And the BHP in the article is a Mk.III which was built to barely handle it.

Now the high points...

A closer look at a very cool Yost Custom Browning Hi-Power SRT model in .40 S&W.

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FN—thorough engineering prowess has always been their strength— In the classic BHP, or Hi-Power, is a steel frame where more than 80 percent of the steel is machined away from the forging.


Another gun writer described it once as being made from the “best grade of Velveeta-class steel,” and he wasn’t far off. It didn’t need exotic alloys or high-strength steels; it worked and worked for a lifetime in 9mm.

But chambered in .40, the test guns died a quick and ugly death. Barrels, slides and frames all expired in different ways and at different round-count intervals, but they all died. So, the engineers rolled up their sleeves and got to work.

The .40 BHP differs from the 9mm in three major ways, besides the breech-face and bore. First, the .40-caliber barrel has three locking lugs instead of two. This spreads out the case-thrust load over 50 percent more steel. The slide is heavier, even though it’s the same length as the 9mm. This, combined with a heavier recoil spring, reduced slide velocity, which was just killing slides and frames. And, lastly, the frames were made of steel castings.

With the machining greatly reduced, FN could cast the 40 frames out of a much stronger alloy—an alloy that didn’t even need heat-treatment to make it strong.

The cast frames (Mk.III only) have the bottom of the frame, at the back of the magazine well, serrated in the direction of the bore axis.

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Look at the bottom of the pistol frame at the magazine well.
If the surface appears smooth (left), the frame is probably forged.
If it has the longitudinal grooves or “ripples” (right), it is cast.


From Stephen A Camp's Articles...


When Browning started to develop the .40 S&W version of the Hi-Power in the middle 1990s, they quickly discovered that significant changes had to be made on that version in order to stand up to the beating of the .40 S&W cartridge.

These included a thicker (stronger and heavier) slide, additional slide/barrel locking lug, and other items. Also, the strength of some of the materials was improved. The improved steels are now used on both the 9mm and .40 guns. Thus, any .40 Hi-Power should have the stronger steels, and the newer 9mm guns will also have them.

Specifically, the receiver (frame) was changed from forged to cast steel. Although we tend to think of forged parts as being stronger, machining of the part becomes difficult when really strong steel is used. Practically speaking, cast parts are sometimes stronger than forged ones because really good steel can be used in the
casting, with only minor machining required.
 
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Whem these first came out around 1992 (ish) I really was drooling over one but sort of glad I didn’t as it’s hard to improve on the original 9mm loading and 9mm guns rechambered tk 40 nebwr quite worked out other tham the S&W 4006
 
I have a BHP .40 S&W. It’s my only remaining .40 and I kept it because it’s the only gun in that caliber I ever had that truly shot well.

The thicker slide messes with the wonderful HiPower balance IMO, making it feel more like a 1911 to me. Small difference to most unless they are used to the 9mm.

The .40s were sometimes given 9mm conversion barrels (Bar-Sto made them) when getting customized. The thought was the extra barrel/slide lug and heavier slide would add longevity over a standard 9mm BHP.
I don’t know, but I’ve had a couple of gunsmiths tell me even the cast BHP frame is on the soft side compared to other guns, so maybe the switch helps.

And speaking of Yost HiPowers:
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The Hi Power just feels right in my hand; but it bites me every time. I havent shot any of the "new" Hi Powers with the longer tang. Can anybody advise if they fixed the hammer bite issue?
 
The fix for the BHP hammer-bite (I never get it) is to #1 - if it has a spur hammer, slightly bob it, or #2 - swap out the spur for a commander-type hammer.
 
The fix for the BHP hammer-bite (I never get it) is to #1 - if it has a spur hammer, slightly bob it, or #2 - swap out the spur for a commander-type hammer.

People (well those that a a Glock as their first gun) scoff at me but if you use a revolver aka crushed grip hammer bite goes away from most people that don’t have super large hamds on a Hi Power.

But thumbs forward are the rage these days!
 
The fix for the BHP hammer-bite (I never get it) is to #1 - if it has a spur hammer, slightly bob it, or #2 - swap out the spur for a commander-type hammer.
NOPE a "ring" type hammer bites me too.

The thumb forward grip feels like being forced to wear ballet shoes and toe walking. I guess Ive been using the thumb over thumb hold for too long, nothing else feels right. When I tried the thumb forward, my wrist looked back at me like I was crazy, "You wanna do what?" Oooops sorry that what my EX said...
 
NOPE a "ring" type hammer bites me too.

The thumb forward grip feels like being forced to wear ballet shoes and toe walking. I guess Ive been using the thumb over thumb hold for too long, nothing else feels right. When I tried the thumb forward, my wrist looked back at me like I was crazy, "You wanna do what?" Oooops sorry that what my EX said...


While some blame Glock I will say when we shot with revolver grip thwre wasn’t the epic issue of low and left….just saying
 
BHPs bite different people different ways.

The most obvious is by the spur.

The other way is by what I call the shank- the upright between the hammer pivot pin and the spur. From what I’ve seen, more people get bit by this than the spur.
Sometimes a change to a hammer with a different spur eliminates the bite, but I bet a lot of these people are helped because the shank is shaped differently on the new hammer.

A couple of smiths figured this out and it’s what makes up most of their “no bite” mod. The only one still alive and not retired that I know of is Don Williams of The Action Works.

Also: Replacing the too-thick grip panels Browning used for a long time with a thinner set can change the way the web of your hand contorts to fit the gun. This can often either cause or eliminate hammer bite.
 
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