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Custom grips

BC$%

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One of my other hobbies besides guns is wood working. One thing I miss with the polymer guns is you cant change the grips. Here is a few pair of grips I have made over the years. Teak grips on my Ruger MKII and a set of lignin Vitae on my 1911
 

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KillerFord1977 I have not noticed them getting slick. I have used the 1911 in IDPA matches and in the rain. We get a fare share of rain in the Pacific North West, I used gun stock oil as a finish. I think if you would use poly on them they would be a it more slippery when wet.
 
One of my other hobbies besides guns is wood working. One thing I miss with the polymer guns is you cant change the grips. Here is a few pair of grips I have made over the years. Teak grips on my Ruger MKII and a set of lignin Vitae on my 1911
Teak is one of my favorites. I made an end grain cutting board and charcuterie board out of teak for my mom this spring. It has a lot of character. I'm looking at making a maple cabinet this winter and might want to do some teak inlays.
 
Teak is one of my favorites. I made an end grain cutting board and charcuterie board out of teak for my mom this spring. It has a lot of character. I'm looking at making a maple cabinet this winter and might want to do some teak inlays.
that would look nice, the teak for the grips was left over from a mission style end table I made from a 1970s reclaimed fireplace mantel
 
Looks wonderful.

How do they handle with a little moisture?
Do they get slick easily ??
I make a distinction between appearance for pieces I use casually/collection/show and PD/competition weapons.
And tho I'm no longer a hunter, might make the distinction there as well.
I care not how "pretty" my self defense pieces are; my goal is to have the best possible G-r-i-p.
Example: A work of art 1911, a thing of beauty and bells, great for competition/self defense with a full wrap of coarse self adhesive grit paper. How ya like 'at?
 
Very nice grips BC, You did a good job!
With all of the natural exotic wood out there hand making nice wood grips can be a big plus. Have had thoughts of using mahogany, zebra wood and some other more foreign wood for grips. Burled wood can also be very nice too. Zebra wood is like other hardwoods mahogany and teak, comes in a variety of shades and patterns. Very durable, makes good grips and handles.

An example of zebra wood:

Camp/chef, zebra wood
 
One of my other hobbies besides guns is wood working. One thing I miss with the polymer guns is you cant change the grips. Here is a few pair of grips I have made over the years. Teak grips on my Ruger MKII and a set of lignin Vitae on my 1911
Those rock, BC !

I bought some unfinished walnut grips from LS Grips ( posted about it elsewhere on this forum) ; they had no treatment whatsoever just bare wood. Brushed them with two coats of pure Tung oil and they came out wonderful. Very low gloss - just a hint of a sheen.
Ever tried Tung oil ?
 
KillerFord1977 I have not noticed them getting slick. I have used the 1911 in IDPA matches and in the rain. We get a fare share of rain in the Pacific North West, I used gun stock oil as a finish. I think if you would use poly on them they would be a it more slippery when wet.
You really shouldn’t put a polyurethane on wood used on a firearm anyway, by sealing the wood it doesn’t allow it to retain an adequate amount of moisture to keep it from cracking during firing/recoil tung oil is the best.
 
Those rock, BC !

I bought some unfinished walnut grips from LS Grips ( posted about it elsewhere on this forum) ; they had no treatment whatsoever just bare wood. Brushed them with two coats of pure Tung oil and they came out wonderful. Very low gloss - just a hint of a sheen.
Ever tried Tung oil ?
I have not used tung oil on grips. I have used it on other projects. It should work great on grips or stocks. I chose a gun stock oil not sure which brand because they are a mixture of oils that seem to resist wear from handling better. The grips on the 1911 were made in about 1990 and have not needed to be recoated
 
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