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Flame Cutting

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wolfpack076

Professional
While at the LGS today I saw a customer looking at a used Smith 357 magnum (don't know what model) and he mentioned "flame cutting " ? on the top strap to my dealer friend and he told the customer that it's not an issue on the particular gun he was looking at. I unfortunately couldn't stay to hear the rest of the topic discussion due to having to skip out to a doctor's appointment. I'm mostly a semi auto handgun owner/user and currently only own a Colt Python and Colt King Cobra (both new production) revolvers. I don't really shoot them as much as I should but I never heard of this issue ? Can anyone here explain to me what this is and how to check out my two if they have it ? And also if anything what damage it can cause to a revolver and more importantly how to avoid it ? I admit I have a very limited knowledge of revolvers and I would greatly appreciate any information anyone here can offer to me. Thanks in advance.
 
Ok, flame cutting is located right above where the cylinder and barrel meet on the top strap, this happens a good bit with .357 mag, but it’s nothing to be concerned with, it’s what’s called self limiting. It’s caused by the hot gases that escapes between the cylinder gap hitting the top strap, you will see a fine line on the top strap and you can actually feel it with your finger nail. Like I said it’s self limiting, after time it stops, doesn’t hurt a thing, the most cause was shooting light bullet weight .357 mag ammo, usually this effected the S&W K-frame .357’s. Here is a pic of it.

1659389890341.jpeg

1659389931652.jpeg

Looks worse then what it is.
 
I have seen it on a number of different revolvers. It's gas escaping between the chamber and forcing cone. Without exception the revolvers I saw it in cut a small line and stopped. Never saw anything near creating a structural integrity issue.

My wife's Taurus 66 cut a fine line within the first 100 rounds and stoped, never went further in near on 40 years.
 
yeah, i had my GP 100 and shot 50 rds, factory 357 today, and it got hot.

then i let it cool a bit, and shot 50 rds 38 special

as i cleaned it, i can also see a "ridge" of sorts, as like on all my other revolvers.

i just use a thin wire brush to clean off the carbon.

i am no revolver expert, but i have to think that todays revolvers are made better as far as metallurgy goes, to have to worry about it.

if i had an antique revolver?

i might be careful what it shoots.
 
Old_Me said:
yeah, i had my GP 100 and shot 50 rds, factory 357 today, and it got hot.

then i let it cool a bit, and shot 50 rds 38 special

as i cleaned it, i can also see a "ridge" of sorts, as like on all my other revolvers.

i just use a thin wire brush to clean off the carbon.

i am no revolver expert, but i have to think that todays revolvers are made better as far as metallurgy goes, to have to worry about it.

if i had an antique revolver?

i might be careful what it shoots.
Click to expand...
Antique revolver cartridges aren’t high enough pressure for it to matter.

It CAN be an issue in some calibers; .357 Maximum, for instance, was notorious for wrecking Ruger Blackhawks from cutting the top strap enough for it to weaken.

S&W deals with it in their alloy revolvers by putting a sacrificial “blast shield” of stainless steel right over the forcing cone…but I’ve never known anyone to get one replaced…in fact, I think the .500’s and .460’s have them, as well.
 
Annihilator said:
Ok, flame cutting is located right above where the cylinder and barrel meet on the top strap, this happens a good bit with .357 mag, but it’s nothing to be concerned with, it’s what’s called self limiting. It’s caused by the hot gases that escapes between the cylinder gap hitting the top strap, you will see a fine line on the top strap and you can actually feel it with your finger nail. Like I said it’s self limiting, after time it stops, doesn’t hurt a thing, the most cause was shooting light bullet weight .357 mag ammo, usually this effected the S&W K-frame .357’s. Here is a pic of it.

View attachment 29580
View attachment 29581
Looks worse then what it is.
Click to expand...
Good information thank you grasshopper.
 
HansGruber said:
Antique revolver cartridges aren’t high enough pressure for it to matter.

It CAN be an issue in some calibers; .357 Maximum, for instance, was notorious for wrecking Ruger Blackhawks from cutting the top strap enough for it to weaken.

S&W deals with it in their alloy revolvers by putting a sacrificial “blast shield” of stainless steel right over the forcing cone…but I’ve never known anyone to get one replaced…in fact, I think the .500’s and .460’s have them, as well.
Click to expand...
Yea, I didn’t include the .357max with the Blackhawk gun, not to many of these are around, but yea, the max could/has torn up guns, thanks Hans!
 
HansGruber said:
Antique revolver cartridges aren’t high enough pressure for it to matter.

It CAN be an issue in some calibers; .357 Maximum, for instance, was notorious for wrecking Ruger Blackhawks from cutting the top strap enough for it to weaken.

S&W deals with it in their alloy revolvers by putting a sacrificial “blast shield” of stainless steel right over the forcing cone…but I’ve never known anyone to get one replaced…in fact, I think the .500’s and .460’s have them, as well.
Click to expand...
Annihilator said:
Yea, I didn’t include the .357max with the Blackhawk gun, not to many of these are around, but yea, the max could/has torn up guns, thanks Hans!
Click to expand...
i ain't never heard of 357 max.......

had me thinking if @HansGruber just misspelt magnum....so i didn't bother to question it.

interesting.

even at my age...

i learnt more stuff today
 
wolfpack076 said:
Thank You for this information especially the pictures on the topic it helped me to understand what it is and what I should look for and also put my mind at ease knowing now that it won't harm me or the guns.
Click to expand...
It can harm you. Keep your fingers away from the sides of the cylinders near the barrel cylinder gap. 30k psi gas through a few thousandth’s gap acts just like a surgical blade.
 
TEXASforLIFE said:
There's also a 500max and I thought there is/was a 9max?
Click to expand...
honestly guys, i was not aware of the many other types of ammo. it is interesting to me now, as to why all the different types that were developed and still in use today, albeit, i'd imagine a higher price to obtain?

i wonder the thought process of the people that developed these other types of ammo, and the reasoning as to why, over say what was/is already out there.

interesting educational channel, the site has going on here.
 
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