HayesGreener
Ronin
I have 1911's with both style guiderods. I see little difference in function
I'm aware of the Wilson and other options. I've been amateur armoring/smithing on 1911s for a number of years now. I wanna be Jason Burton when I grow up!I’m seeing what you all are saying about reluctance because of tools needed for take down.
There are those guide rods that require tools. That would be a pain. Wilson Combat has a full length guide rod that doesn’t need tools. Check this out
Item # 25C
https://wilsoncombat.com/guide-rod-full-length-commander.html
^^^^^^ THIS! ^^^^^^The GI guide rod system is much easier to work with; no tools needed for field stripping!
It's not really a matter of function, given appropriate spring weights. It's the field strip operation.I have 1911's with both style guiderods. I see little difference in function
If that embarrasses any of ya, you certainly would not want to read the pieces I've written concerning usage of pin gages!! LOL.Like this nice and tight.![]()
I have a couple 5" 1911's with two-piece full-length guide rods.
Both run fine & only need an Allen-wrench to take out the front 1/2 of the rod, then take-down is the same as the regular guide rod.
I may get a Commander-length two-piece rod for my new Combat Commander.
Wilson Combat (or whoever's you purchase) thanks you for your business!
![]()
Interesting. It is possible, I know, for an out-of-spec spring to solid stack. I have a quick question for ya: Have you ever checked to see how little rearward travel the slide must cover before the ENTIRE spring is fully encircling a standard GI guide rod? It's not very much, in either the government length system or in the commander length system. The stacking I refer to MUST be carefully checked for if one converts a four incher to the commander system... It will work as long as the spring doesn't stack solid before the rear of the bottom lug feet contact the vertical impact surface. If it does and one runs the gun that way, it won't be very many rounds before the spring cap gets punched out (or the barrel bushing gets broken) and the slide and spring go sailing down range.... I have seen evidence of springs binding at times.
I’m seeing what you all are saying about reluctance because of tools needed for take down.
There are those guide rods that require tools. That would be a pain. Wilson Combat has a full length guide rod that doesn’t need tools. Check this out
Item # 25C
https://wilsoncombat.com/guide-rod-full-length-commander.html
[Please pardon me for replying to myself. I don't intend to come across as adversarial on this. Therefore, I want to provided a modified version of my response which more accurately reflects my thoughts and experience:]Interesting. It is possible, I know, for an out-of-spec spring to solid stack. I have a quick question for ya: Have you ever checked to see how little rearward travel the slide must cover before the ENTIRE spring is fully encircling a standard GI guide rod? It's not very much, in either the government length system or in the commander length system. The stacking I refer to MUST be carefully checked for if one converts a four incher to the commander system... It will work as long as the spring doesn't stack solid before the rear of the bottom lug feet contact the vertical impact surface. If it does and one runs the gun that way, it won't be very many rounds before the spring cap gets punched out (or the barrel bushing gets broken) and the slide and spring go sailing down range.
Have a DW Vigil 45acp & S&W 1911PD 45acp both commander length and light weight frames. Installed WC full length guide rods never had any malfunctions in either of them.I have a 1911 TRP CC in 9mm.
I’m considering installing a full length guide rod but I’m wondering if it would cause harm the aluminum frame.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not arguing that a FLGR is any more or less RELIABLE / FUNCTIONAL than the GI guide rod setup. It is all about the convenience of field stripping the gun. That's where the GI guide rod setup shines over the FLGR. But, everyone gets to choose for themselves. That's the cool thing about guns. There's so many of them with so many variations. Surely even the most picky person can find something that suits them. To each their own.Have a DW Vigil 45acp & S&W 1911PD 45acp both commander length and light weight frames. Installed WC full length guide rods never had any malfunctions in either of them.
Hi, @Grayfox ! Since I'm relatively new here, I'm a bit unsure about how many previous discussions on the topic of 1911 full length guide rods have occurred in the past. Judging by what I've observed in the past on other forums (which shall remain unnamed by me), it must be something which comes up repeatedly on any forum where 1911s are discussed.We've discussed FLGRs here before. My opinion is well known.
But if the OP wants to put one in, its his gun.![]()
I’m right there with yaI've had three 1911s with FLGRs, the first kept its because I didn't know any better; the second (a Springfield TRP)got its replaced with the original JMB recoil system; and last, a Rock Island in 10mm, it has a bushingless bull barrel, so it stays.
I figure if John Moses didn't think it was necessary, then it don't need it.
But I a bit of a simpleton originalist.....
Mr. Browning did make what I believe to be the greatest handgun made. Oh, boy I think I’m going to pay for that comment here.I've had three 1911s with FLGRs, the first kept its because I didn't know any better; the second (a Springfield TRP)got its replaced with the original JMB recoil system; and last, a Rock Island in 10mm, it has a bushingless bull barrel, so it stays.
I figure if John Moses didn't think it was necessary, then it don't need it.
But I a bit of a simpleton originalist.....
Thanks. And yes this thread did help me and get my question answered.Hi, @Grayfox ! Since I'm relatively new here, I'm a bit unsure about how many previous discussions on the topic of 1911 full length guide rods have occurred in the past. Judging by what I've observed in the past on other forums (which shall remain unnamed by me), it must be something which comes up repeatedly on any forum where 1911s are discussed.
It sounds as if you and I share the same opinion with regard to FLGRs in 1911s, which I have expressed in this thread. I'm hoping that the original poster, @EmberTRPCC , got his real question answered regarding the possibility of damaging his alloy frame IF an FLGR was installed. I realize that the ensuing discussion is all very likely a rehash of what's gone before.
I'm of the mind that if someone really, really wants to do something with their own gun, it is their property to do with as they please. I'm glad that @EmberTRPCC reached out here to get an answer. Beyond getting an answer to his question, what he chooses to DO afterward is his business and no skin off the nose of anyone else here. It's always fun to discuss these things, even if we are beating the proverbial dead horse. I have to assume that not everyone is up to speed on a given topic (just as I have to assume there are some far more knowledgeable than me), so the probability that the discussion is a rehash doesn't really bother me. Differences of opinions keep life interesting and I don't have to have my opinions (and knowledge) validated to enjoy the discussions.