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Grip Safety Options

Because of recoil control and my natural point of aim, I prefer a very high grip on my 1911's. Unfortunately, the TRP's grip safety doesn't do it for me, to where I've had fingers go numb from me trying to choke up on the grip. It also doesn't drop to my natural point of aim. The grip safety was going to have to go, but what to replace it with? First, I can confirm that SA (the TRP anyway) uses a Wilson Combat cut for their own beavertails. There are also beavertails cut for either a .250" or .220" radius; those won't work. Because I'm indecisive, I ordered both a Wilson Combat standard high ride beavertail and their bulletproof high grip version. Also, I knew I'd have to blend the frame, but was nervous how much I'd have to do with the high grip. Would the higher grip be worth the white knuckles involved with taking a file to my frame? To be clear, I've never performed this task before, at least not successfully (long story). So, how do these things compare?

The first picture shows the stock, high ride, and high grip grip safeties side by side. The second picture is of the configuration as it left the factory, as a baseline.

The third is with the high ride on the gun, and the stock thumb safety. It doesn't look drastically different, but I'm able to get a much higher grip with this unit. With respect to ease of installation, you could drop this piece in, if you really wanted to, and be happy. In reality, it would would benefit from a bit of blending, on both the frame and thumb safety, to pull it together.

The third picture is what will be the end state of high grip beavertail and Wilson ambi safety. The grip is a step change and allows me to really get up close to the bore. But as you can see, there will be some blending required. In fact, there are points where the safety is inset to the frame; no getting around that one.

The TRP is a great gun for the money, but after a chunk of the extractor broke off while I was polishing it, I've become wary of MiM parts, so I'm rebuilding the gun exactly the way I want it. I've already replaced the mag catch, extractor, hammer, sear, sear spring, trigger, grips, and guide rod. Did my very first trigger job and got an amazingly crisp 3.5# pull out of it. In the next few weeks, I'll also replace the thumb safety, slide stop, grip safety, firing pin stop, and mag funnel. Probably would have been easier to list what won't be changed...
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Hi,

That's a lot of work on that pistol. Make it your own. It's great that you have the skillz. :)

In my small collection of pistols have have grip safety, no safety, thumb safety, and I much prefer the grip safety. But that's just me. I imagine you'll go with whatever gives you the highest grip and is most comfortable to manipulate. Thanks for sharing your trials. This old noob learns from guys like you. ;)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Because of recoil control and my natural point of aim, I prefer a very high grip on my 1911's. Unfortunately, the TRP's grip safety doesn't do it for me, to where I've had fingers go numb from me trying to choke up on the grip. It also doesn't drop to my natural point of aim. The grip safety was going to have to go, but what to replace it with? First, I can confirm that SA (the TRP anyway) uses a Wilson Combat cut for their own beavertails. There are also beavertails cut for either a .250" or .220" radius; those won't work. Because I'm indecisive, I ordered both a Wilson Combat standard high ride beavertail and their bulletproof high grip version. Also, I knew I'd have to blend the frame, but was nervous how much I'd have to do with the high grip. Would the higher grip be worth the white knuckles involved with taking a file to my frame? To be clear, I've never performed this task before, at least not successfully (long story). So, how do these things compare?

The first picture shows the stock, high ride, and high grip grip safeties side by side. The second picture is of the configuration as it left the factory, as a baseline.

The third is with the high ride on the gun, and the stock thumb safety. It doesn't look drastically different, but I'm able to get a much higher grip with this unit. With respect to ease of installation, you could drop this piece in, if you really wanted to, and be happy. In reality, it would would benefit from a bit of blending, on both the frame and thumb safety, to pull it together.

The third picture is what will be the end state of high grip beavertail and Wilson ambi safety. The grip is a step change and allows me to really get up close to the bore. But as you can see, there will be some blending required. In fact, there are points where the safety is inset to the frame; no getting around that one.

The TRP is a great gun for the money, but after a chunk of the extractor broke off while I was polishing it, I've become wary of MiM parts, so I'm rebuilding the gun exactly the way I want it. I've already replaced the mag catch, extractor, hammer, sear, sear spring, trigger, grips, and guide rod. Did my very first trigger job and got an amazingly crisp 3.5# pull out of it. In the next few weeks, I'll also replace the thumb safety, slide stop, grip safety, firing pin stop, and mag funnel. Probably would have been easier to list what won't be changed...View attachment 23126View attachment 23127View attachment 23128View attachment 23129
Although I appreciate your knowledge and abilities with what your doing I can’t agree with you on removing or bypassing a safety feature on your handgun. I know first hand that firearm manufacturers spend thousands of dollars designing there guns before putting them on the market with an emphasis on safety. Bad decision.
My opinion.
 
Although I appreciate your knowledge and abilities with what your doing I can’t agree with you on removing or bypassing a safety feature on your handgun. I know first hand that firearm manufacturers spend thousands of dollars designing there guns before putting them on the market with an emphasis on safety. Bad decision.
My opinion.
i have to agree with removing any built in safety feature on any gun.

my thoughts are along with a video that @Mike H. had provided with a lawyer and the other guy which was an instructor/owner(?) of some company

the lawyer did mention about the prosecution going after you if you modify your gun.

now this brings up a couple of points.

1) if it is a range toy, maybe there will be no issue.

2) if however, you use that modified gun for self defense, say you left the range, and someone attacks you, and you use that modified gun, you could be in a world of hurt at trial.

it was a 2 part video, @Mike H. posted the first part, some lawyer out in Arizona..???

 
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Although I appreciate your knowledge and abilities with what your doing I can’t agree with you on removing or bypassing a safety feature on your handgun. I know first hand that firearm manufacturers spend thousands of dollars designing there guns before putting them on the market with an emphasis on safety. Bad decision.
My opinion.
He's neither removing nor bypassing; he's replacing one grip safety for another...
 
To confirm, the new grip safety will be fully functional, just better suited to my shooting style and preferences.
I'd given some thought to pinning the OEM grip safety, since my high grip wasn't consistently deactivating it, but decided against it for reasons some of you mentioned.

And yes, it's a lot of stuff to be changing, but the extractor chunking off from a simple polish has given me pause about the small parts. The TRP has good bones (slide / frame fit, barrel lockup), so it's an excellent platform to start from and with all the updates, I'll still have less in the gun than a comparable Wilson Combat or Nighthawk. FWIW, I'm most certainly not a gunsmith, but if you shoot USPSA for over a decade, you can't help but learn how to do some light work on 1911's. But being honest, I'm nervous about tearing into the frame to blend the new grip safety.
 
Nothing wrong with helping fix problem areas! I have 2 XDMs and still have issues with the grip safeties with my grip style (not enough pressure it that area), but a thicker or somewhat of an adjustable pad could help at the webbing? Big reason I'm not a fan nor buy 1911s!
 
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