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HELP Newby Cleaning Lubing 45 mil-spec for 1st time

Old_Me said:
no way, no how, in HELL did i ever, or will ever lube ANY of my 1911's like in that article.

those pics were old, maybe back in the day, a 1911 had to be lubed like that.

i have a syringe all plastic, bought a bunch of them on amazon, and one is filled with red automotive Heavy Duty grease,

when i did give my Sig STX some grease, it was a very fine line in the slide's rails only.

but damn, even that tiny amount was a absolute mess to clean after shooting just 100 rounds.

nope, nada, no way Jose`...

i'll stick to the Lucas Extreme Duty oil.

as i mentioned many posting ago, even Dan Wesson says to use synthetic OIL to lube their 1911's, and i have 2 of them.
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YMMV. Works well for me and I run my guns pretty hard.
 
Old_Me said:
no way, no how, in HELL did i ever, or will ever lube ANY of my 1911's like in that article.

those pics were old, maybe back in the day, a 1911 had to be lubed like that.

i have a syringe all plastic, bought a bunch of them on amazon, and one is filled with red automotive Heavy Duty grease,

when i did give my Sig STX some grease, it was a very fine line in the slide's rails only.

but damn, even that tiny amount was a absolute mess to clean after shooting just 100 rounds.

nope, nada, no way Jose`...

i'll stick to the Lucas Extreme Duty oil.

as i mentioned many posting ago, even Dan Wesson says to use synthetic OIL to lube their 1911's, and i have 2 of them.
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It ain’t gonna hurt to run ‘em wet.

Ask any top-tier 1911 ‘smith and they will concur.

Factory guns are loose in tolerance. A Wilson, or Nighthawk, Alchemy, Les a Baer, etc., all run better, wetter.
 
HayesGreener said:
Scrub with a bronze bristle brush with Hoppes then blast everything off with Gunscrubber. Wipe dry, fog with light Remoil spray, wipe off excess, then apply light bead of TW25 grease to the rails
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FWIW, in my firearms courses we ended the course with cleaning and lubing guns. When cleaning 5-10 guns the above procedure was very quick and effective, important when everyone wants to go home
 
Belt Fed said:
If'n i'm not getting sprayed in the face their runnin too dry.
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i was trying to find pics of a guy getting squirted in the face.

26,595 pics of sexual pics, and i somehow feel that this thread would get shut down...

oh, you would have liked the pics.........( i know i did)


so, how's about this one..??


1766409891848.png
 
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Belt Fed said:
You're going to find everyone uses something different and all of the oils will work, some cost more than others and some stink like all get out. i use Mobil1 to lube everything from muzzloaders to machine guns. it doesn't get rank and doesn't sling off too much. been using it for years. it's a lot cheaper than most gun oils. i do use rem oil to wipe the outside with and Mobil1 is too thick. you will need to oil the slide where it travels on the grip modul. just apply some in the grooves on the slide and work it a few times when you connect the two. now someone will come along and tell you only idiots use car oils on guns and give you there choice. there really is no wrong oil, just make sure it is lubricated well. I don't use grease for one reason and i won't get into that on this post but nothing wrong with it and i'm sure it has improved tremendously since i used it last.
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I decided to take your advice for a couple of reasons: one I used Mobile 1 synthetics in both my 2002 Mustang GT and then later in my 1999 Cobra Mustang and did not have one single issue and I drove them hard now and again. Three the cost of the gun oils are outrageous Hoppes Nr 9 14.00 for 4 ounces that equals 56.00 a quart of oil. I checked the temps on the nr 9 and it was 564 degrees for the highest where when I checked for the Mobile 1 Extended Life 0-20W was 500. I dont believe that my barrel will ever reach that temperature unless I put it into an oven and set the temp to 500 plus degrees. Secondly at my local Wally world I can purchase the Extended life for less than 10.00 a quart which should last me awhile. So THANK YOU BELT FED FOR THE ADVICE!!!! Hope you have a great day...
 
Lamps3 said:
I decided to take your advice for a couple of reasons: one I used Mobile 1 synthetics in both my 2002 Mustang GT and then later in my 1999 Cobra Mustang and did not have one single issue and I drove them hard now and again. Three the cost of the gun oils are outrageous Hoppes Nr 9 14.00 for 4 ounces that equals 56.00 a quart of oil. I checked the temps on the nr 9 and it was 564 degrees for the highest where when I checked for the Mobile 1 Extended Life 0-20W was 500. I dont believe that my barrel will ever reach that temperature unless I put it into an oven and set the temp to 500 plus degrees. Secondly at my local Wally world I can purchase the Extended life for less than 10.00 a quart which should last me awhile. So THANK YOU BELT FED FOR THE ADVICE!!!! Hope you have a great day...
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Hoppes is not a gun oil, it is a cleaning solvent. Nothing I have used works as well to remove lead, copper, and carbon but you don't leave the Hoppes on the gun. For what it's worth 4 oz of Hoppes lasts me a year or more and I clean my guns every time I shoot them. You are correct, a good synthetic motor oil works fine for final lubrication, but I prefer TW25 gun grease on the rails because it stays put.
 
Lamps3 said:
What are you experts using to clean and remove the film from a brand-new gun???
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Lamps3 said:
Then which grease to use for lubing, I havent done this before???
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Screenshot_20260116_141525_Samsung Internet.jpg

True story, Mazola will work.

This is me talking but I recommend if you're going to oil your gun do it right before you go to the range because that's the one time you know for sure that it's going to get used and have some wear.

Lamps3 said:
Putting gun oil in the barrel is my norm,
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Very light coat.

I promise you there is a YouTube video out there somewhere that will tell you how to properly Field Strip clean and Lube your particular gun. I would be amazed if there wasn't one that was made by whoever manufactured your gun. Go watch that do what they say
 
The Night Rider said:
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View attachment 101729
True story, Mazola will work.

This is me talking but I recommend if you're going to oil your gun do it right before you go to the range because that's the one time you know for sure that it's going to get used and have some wear.

Very light coat.

I promise you there is a YouTube video out there somewhere that will tell you how to properly Field Strip clean and Lube your particular gun. I would be amazed if there wasn't one that was made by whoever manufactured your gun. Go watch that do what they say
Click to expand...

That Lubriplate looks interesting…
 
As of January 2026, Grant Cunningham is alive.
Confusion regarding his status often stems from reports about other individuals with the same name, but the author and gunsmith remains active in his field.

Status Clarification
  • Active Author: He continues to write and publish content. His official website, GrantCunningham.com, remains active with recent articles and updates on personal defense and revolvers.
  • Retired Gunsmith: While he is alive, he has largely retired from active gunsmithing services to focus on teaching, writing, and consulting
 
I’ve done a few kitchen table “experiments”, for lack of a better description, over the years involving oils and lubricant. I bet most of us on this forum have.

I’m at my hide-away place near my families area, not where I actually live. The heat is kept low most of the winter - I just turn everything up when I’m here. No A/C, I use fans in the summer. My range is nearby.

Just pulled out some grease from the box I keep here. See first pic: Clenzoil (100% synthetic), Lucas and Tetra.

Squeezed out a bit on a 3x5 card and let it sit for an hour. Maybe you can zoom in and see the result.
From left to right on the card: Lucas, Clenzoil, Tetra.

A couple points.
- I kneaded the Tetra and Lucas tubes. Both have been sitting unused for more than a year. The Clenzoil is a syringe, obviously. Wonder if the syringe’s push down operation prevents condensation inside ? Would the changing seasons cause moisture in the other two?
- the difference in the amount is due to the size opening; Clenzoil syringe has almost a needle oiler distribution. Have to cut the nipple top off the Lucas. The small Tetra tube (perfect for field & range) came pre-cut.

Going by the Cherrybalmz article previously posted, the Clenzoil is more like auto /industrial grease, and the creamier Tetra is the right consistency…
But I’ve had NO ISSUES using ANY of them !

(minor point: when I use grease at all, I use it on my “lower-end” guns, mostly1911s, not the better fit ones.)
 

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