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How to Avoid Revolver Forcing Cone Failure

There was an excellent article in Reloader magazine on this subject 15 or so years ago...it said a major culprit was buildup in the forcing cone from shooting large numbers unjacketed (lead) bullets, and then switching to a jacketed bullet...such as practicing with .38 SWC’s and then putting a few JHP carry rounds downrange, particularly in Model 19’s.

The leading reduces the cone bore size, and when the hotter jacketed rounds go through, it causes excess outward force on the FC walls...and cracks happen.

So...if you shoot a lot of lead, be sure to clean the forcing cone before switching to jacketed.

I’ve followed this advice ever since, and have yet to have a problem, even in my K frame magnums.
 
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There was an excellent article in Reloader magazine on this subject 15 or so years ago...it said a major culprit was buildup in the forcing cone from shooting large numbers unjacketed (lead) bullets, and then switching to a jacketed bullet...such as practicing with .38 SWC’s and then putting a few JHP carry rounds downrange, particularly in Model 19’s.

The leashing reduces the cone bore size, and when the hotter jacketed rounds go through, it causes excess outward forc on the FC walls...and cracks happen.

So...if you shoot a lot of lead, be sure to clean the forcing cone before switching to jacketed.

I’ve followed this advice ever since, and have yet to have a problem, even in my K frame magnums.
So true on cleaning the forcing cone area after shooting lead through it, I have a few friends who just think shooting jacketed bullets afterwards cleans out all the lead.....not.....
 
This is probably one of the best tools to take care of FC buildup...

Yep, used this for years when I shot revolvers with lead bullets
 
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