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Knives and what direction do you go?

When it comes too sharpening knives and the different blade types do you go toward tip or start at tip and go toward handle? Is 1 way better than the other? I've watched my dad go circular on pocket knives and be very sharp! There used to be a very good and knowledgeable person locally, but died many years ago:(! From chainsaws to you name it he was good! This goes too show learn from your elders!
 
If I understand your ques:

The motion I use is as though I’m trying to shave a layer off the flat surface of the stone, lengthwise.

Seems like I’ve always started with the edge closest to the hilt/handle, and worked my way towards the tip.

YouTube it Tex !

(PS why’s anybody telling a texan how to sharpen a knife ?!? Lol !)
😉😁
 
If I understand your ques:

The motion I use is as though I’m trying to shave a layer off the flat surface of the stone, lengthwise.

Seems like I’ve always started with the edge closest to the hilt/handle, and worked my way towards the tip.

YouTube it Tex !

(PS why’s anybody telling a texan how to sharpen a knife ?!? Lol !)
😉😁
I've seen both ways, but didn't know if 1 way could be better than the other? Like the circular motion gets heel to toe then toe to heel when using a stone. I make great toothpicks.
 
I have the work sharp belt system and still sharpen by stone most of the time. I guess I just don't want to give up my skill that I developed as a youngster .

I started out using a circular motion when I was young but soon changed to starting at the handle and going towards the tip. I still use that method.

I don't think it really matters as long as you maintain the proper angle for your sharpened edge on both sides.
 
I have the work sharp belt system and still sharpen by stone most of the time. I guess I just don't want to give up my skill that I developed as a youngster .

I started out using a circular motion when I was young but soon changed to starting at the handle and going towards the tip. I still use that method.

I don't think it really matters as long as you maintain the proper angle for your sharpened edge on both sides.
I didn't know if it was important as going with the grain as wood working is? Metal has a grain flow also, but is harder to tell direction if you could ever tell?
 
I've seen both ways, but didn't know if 1 way could be better than the other? Like the circular motion gets heel to toe then toe to heel when using a stone.

This GearJunkie article is mostly agreeable by me, but what I wanted to show you about it isn't the text - rather, it's that very last animated picture, the one in the "Step 3: Remove the Burr" section.

That's what I mean when I wrote that I went "both ways," on the stone.

I personally don't think it's that important - "hilt"/ricasso-to-tip or the reverse, or circular - as @papa noted, I think that whatever you do, as long as you're able to maintain angle and can exercise to not damage the tip, those are far more important.

YouTube has become uselesstube for this education.

:ROFLMAO: I know what you mean - the signal-to-noise ratio isn't what it used to be....but that said, there's now also lots more really good content than there used to be as well.

Even with my actual job as a benchtop research scientist, I routinely find YouTube videos and Reddit to actually contain valuable information/instructionals.

The more my hands bother me from arthritis the more I am seriously considering a Work Sharp belt sharpener.

Nowadays, I most routinely use the Work Sharp. I've got the Ken Onion Edition. It really does make very fast work out of virtually *everything* I normally use: as with many first-generation Asians, I favor a cleaver in the kitchen, and keep separate meat versus vegetable ones to maintain working sharpness. I usually end up using the veg one until it's nearly dead, going to my Western chef's knives for more delicate slicing, but typically, I'll sharpen the cleaver to be able to cleanly slice tomatoes, and the WS really makes very short work of that.

As with any tool, it's got its own set of compromises, but particularly for heavy users, its ease of operation and its speed are hard to beat. In just a couple of hours, I can work through both of my cleavers, a smaller slicer, and my Henckels block set.

My other favorite is the Spyderco Tri-Angle Sharpening System. After I got that, I rarely spent time on my stones anymore. Now the only stone I routinely use is the one I have at work for my microdissection instruments.
 
Certain blades I've sharpened quite well on the KO, but some of the double edge wider not so much. Those that are thick in the middle are problematic at least for me? Trying too find/determine the best angle based on blade thickness. I get/understand the "maintain the same angle" is extremely important for a sharp blade! Thin blades that are no longer than 3" I do get very sharp and a very clean (burr free) with 1/2 micron spray I apply to a leather strop. I've used some rouge that with good results also.
 
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