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My FIRST build.. questions

So I'm building my first rifle/pistol... Whatever you want to call it. 300 AAC with 8.5" barrel is what I've chosen so far and am trying to decide between phosphate and nitride.

What about lower receiver recommendations?

I'm sticking with forged or billet (in that order of preference) but was wondering if there are any manufacturers to stay away from as far as having a reputation for defects?

I'm a dude who likes context so what's the purpose of the gun? It would be a PDW with a folding stock ideally small enough to fit in a backpack or bag. It would also be my primary gun for home defense.

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I look for parts but that's it for the moment
 
So I'm building my first rifle/pistol... Whatever you want to call it. 300 AAC with 8.5" barrel is what I've chosen so far and am trying to decide between phosphate and nitride.

What about lower receiver recommendations?

I'm sticking with forged or billet (in that order of preference) but was wondering if there are any manufacturers to stay away from as far as having a reputation for defects?

I'm a dude who likes context so what's the purpose of the gun? It would be a PDW with a folding stock ideally small enough to fit in a backpack or bag. It would also be my primary gun for home defense.

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I look for parts but that's it for the moment
I have had success on 4 complete from ground up AR builds with Anderson and Ruger stripped lowers. Usually can be had for sub $50. Aero Precision makes some on the higher end for $175, but the $100 diff in price hasnt impressed me. Though, I’m building sub $900 guns. If I was $1500+ gun build, I’d go Aero Precision or Sig from Midwest Gun works.

I’d prob go Nitride on barrel.

Geissele would be my choice for triggers.
 
So I'm building my first rifle/pistol... Whatever you want to call it. 300 AAC with 8.5" barrel is what I've chosen so far and am trying to decide between phosphate and nitride.

What about lower receiver recommendations?

I'm sticking with forged or billet (in that order of preference) but was wondering if there are any manufacturers to stay away from as far as having a reputation for defects?

I'm a dude who likes context so what's the purpose of the gun? It would be a PDW with a folding stock ideally small enough to fit in a backpack or bag. It would also be my primary gun for home defense.

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I look for parts but that's it for the moment
Oh, I’d pay the $200 ATF tax stamp and do a Short Barrel Rifle (SBR) Form 1 with the serial number of the lower you buy. That way you can legally mess with barrel length, overall length of the rifle, and brace/stock adaptations and alway be 100% legal on any length or config you choose. Forever. Ultimate tinker toy thats ATF approved.
 
Here is my Anderson SBR build that I did with ATF Form 1 on a separate suppressor build and a form 1 sbr.
I can walk you thru ATF form 1’s. Really simple. Lots of internet walk thru guides as well out there.

End result is you legally have to have them engraved to a certain depth with your name/ or trust name, city, state and other legal info after the Form 1 is Approved by the ATF. Pretty simple stuff.
A6A6503D-F007-420C-B38D-45A07102385D.jpeg
 
5.56 works.
.300 BO uses 5.56 parts Except for the barrel.

I like Aero Precision or Faxon BcG’s.
But go with what budget allows
I knew that the magazines and hence the lowers and firing controls were the same the wasn't sure about the BCG but now that I think about it a 300 is a .30 round stuffed into a shortened 5.56 right? Been awhile since I've done any reading
 
If you're going to SBR, I'd look for a friendly local brick-and-mortar and test a bunch of magazines to at least make sure the lower is in-spec. if the counter clerk is really friendly, I'd bring along known-in-spec pins...and possibly even the entire fire-control-group to test-fit. If that SN is gonna "belong to me" as an NFA item, I'd want to make absolutely sure it works as its supposed to, regardless of the roll-mark on it.

Heck, even if I weren't, I'd still want to do this. ;)

For the BCG, I'd spend just a bit more and go SOLGW or BCM.

I have an Aero complete as a hobby gun that I purchased specifically to take to an "armorer's class" as a take-apart/put-together gun - https://www.thearmorylife.com/forum/threads/lets-see-your-ar-setups.258/page-5#post-4884 . We didn't gauge in that class because it wasn't a "real" "armorer's class," but it was taught by a very highly regarded (locally and nationally) gunsmith who holds an American Pistolsmiths Guild number and who is also a disciple of the late Pat Rogers. The gun passed inspection in that class, and by all empirical evidence, it seems to be in-spec.

That said, I also know from personal experience and from that of friends' that Aero's lowers as well as parts sometimes do vary quite a bit in terms of tolerances. I also purchased an additional phosphate BCG, and while it was fine overall, it and the one included in my AC-15 were configured differently in terms of the extractor insert/o-ring.
 
So I've got my lower and a lower parts kit on the way. Both purchased from palmetto state. Any tips on assembling it? Mind you, this is my first time so act like you're trying to explain it to a four year old


I was a little intimidated the first time. I actually bought one off the shelf first because I was afraid to try to build one. After messing with it for a little while I started buying stripped lowers and figuring it out. It is not difficult and there are a million videos on line that will show you exactly how to do it. You could spend a little more money on "Kits" which have most of the stuff you need or you can buy individual parts. Most likely whatever lower parts kit you buy you will end up changing a few things. Trigger, Buffer/tube, maybe you want an oversized or ambi safety or bolt release, etc.. I'd keep it simple for the first one. You can always easily swap those things out later.

I suggest buying a complete upper the first time too. I don't think building one is any more difficult than doing the lower, but messing with gas blocks and tubes and all that is a process all it's own. For the first one I would skip it and just buy a complete upper receiver. Several decent ones at affordable prices. Aero is a mid tier option, Bravo Company might be a little higher end, but also considerably more expensive. Many of those companies use the same barrels made by Faxon and others. A really affordable upper is Bear Creek Arsenal. They get mixed reviews on line and I certainly wouldn't rank them up there with high end stuff, but I have two of them, I paid under $300 for them and have ran the shite out of them with no issues. Accurate and reliable they are. My next one will likely be a BCM ( Bravo Company). As for lowers I totally agree with Hans. As long as it's in spec they are all about the same. You can get an Anderson stripped lower right now for about $50. I have two and they are both just fine. I also have a PSA stripped lower which is also fine.

You could rush out and buy a bunch of tools, but unless you plan on doing a bunch of them I wouldn't because you don't really need most of that stuff. You can do without a wrench for the Castle nut, , but that is the one thing I would buy if you can't borrow one from a friend, which is what I did. NC Star sells one for about $20. You will need a set of regular punches and I would suggest getting some roll pin punches too, but I built my first one without them. Punches are cheap and you can get them from Harbor Freight or Lowes or wherever. No need for anything fancy. I would also spend about $12 on a full set of T handle hex wrenches too. You can easily make your own armors bloack out of a scrap piece of wood. You definitely will want to use one when you're installing the trigger guard roll pins. All this stuff is explained in pretty good detail in most videos. I'd skip the vice blocks, again unless you plan on building several more. They are handy and I did buy one, but not until after I already built 3. I bought a Wheeler lower vice block for under $20. I also bought a small Wheeler screwdriver set for under $20, but you can find the tips you need in just about any cheap screw tip assortment set. And for ARs you rarely use a screwdriver.

Anyway, feel free to ask advice here while you are doing it. I did. These guys are great about it. And here is a pretty good tutorial for building a stripped lower.

 
I was a little intimidated the first time. I actually bought one off the shelf first because I was afraid to try to build one. After messing with it for a little while I started buying stripped lowers and figuring it out. It is not difficult and there are a million videos on line that will show you exactly how to do it. You could spend a little more money on "Kits" which have most of the stuff you need or you can buy individual parts. Most likely whatever lower parts kit you buy you will end up changing a few things. Trigger, Buffer/tube, maybe you want an oversized or ambi safety or bolt release, etc.. I'd keep it simple for the first one. You can always easily swap those things out later.

I suggest buying a complete upper the first time too. I don't think building one is any more difficult than doing the lower, but messing with gas blocks and tubes and all that is a process all it's own. For the first one I would skip it and just buy a complete upper receiver. Several decent ones at affordable prices. Aero is a mid tier option, Bravo Company might be a little higher end, but also considerably more expensive. Many of those companies use the same barrels made by Faxon and others. A really affordable upper is Bear Creek Arsenal. They get mixed reviews on line and I certainly wouldn't rank them up there with high end stuff, but I have two of them, I paid under $300 for them and have ran the shite out of them with no issues. Accurate and reliable they are. My next one will likely be a BCM ( Bravo Company). As for lowers I totally agree with Hans. As long as it's in spec they are all about the same. You can get an Anderson stripped lower right now for about $50. I have two and they are both just fine. I also have a PSA stripped lower which is also fine.

You could rush out and buy a bunch of tools, but unless you plan on doing a bunch of them I wouldn't because you don't really need most of that stuff. You can do without a wrench for the Castle nut, , but that is the one thing I would buy if you can't borrow one from a friend, which is what I did. NC Star sells one for about $20. You will need a set of regular punches and I would suggest getting some roll pin punches too, but I built my first one without them. Punches are cheap and you can get them from Harbor Freight or Lowes or wherever. No need for anything fancy. I would also spend about $12 on a full set of T handle hex wrenches too. You can easily make your own armors bloack out of a scrap piece of wood. You definitely will want to use one when you're installing the trigger guard roll pins. All this stuff is explained in pretty good detail in most videos. I'd skip the vice blocks, again unless you plan on building several more. They are handy and I did buy one, but not until after I already built 3. I bought a Wheeler lower vice block for under $20. I also bought a small Wheeler screwdriver set for under $20, but you can find the tips you need in just about any cheap screw tip assortment set. And for ARs you rarely use a screwdriver.

Anyway, feel free to ask advice here while you are doing it. I did. These guys are great about it. And here is a pretty good tutorial for building a stripped lower.

Thing is I actually will need most of the tools if my plans work out. I know it hard to keep track of everyone here but I'm a gunsmithing student and will hopefully open my own shop.

As far as the upper I think that's the route I'm going to go and try to keep it simple for now and swap things out later. But this gets my hands dirty, so to speak.
 
^ Lubrication preferences opens up a whole other can of worms. 😅 And much as with the story for its automotive equivalent, this is one where there's a lot of good, technical debate.

Overall, any of the better lubes will be just fine, and typically what ends up happening is that folks develop their own personal preferences as based on their (or their friends') empirical evidence (which often includes how hot, cold, or humid/corrosive ones climate may be).

The SOTAR faithful love their SOTARacha. You'll find on ARFCOM, M4C.net and P&S, for example, a love for CherryBalmz, and Slip 2000 (the latter is also a favorite of "the disciples of Pat" [Rogers]...myself, given my geographic location and how many of my instructors fall into this description, well, you can guess what I favor :p ).

During the assembly process, AeroShell 64 (previously 33MS) is the By Hoyle for the barrel nut.

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I forgot in my list above, but ARBuildJunkie is also a great resource: https://www.arbuildjunkie.com

And then there is this motherlode, which I also somehow forgot!!!!! :oops: - I don't know if this is a public post or not, if you can't see it, I'll try to add you to the Group if you are also on FB. PM me about this, if that is the case.

 
Most people dramatically over lube ARs. I generally clean them thoroughly with CLP and wipe them down with clean rags. I put oil on the bolt carrier in the obvious spots. If you can't figure out where the obvious spots are, shoot 100 rounds through it, take the BCG out and look for the shiny spots. If you aren't using CLP to clean then you can lightly oil metal parts as you would with any other gun, but leaving excess is just going to result in a mess next time you shoot it and clean it. I have never specifically lubed the FCG and I definitely wouldn't use grease. I usually just put some CLP on a clean rag and give all the lower parts I can get to a good wiping. I do put a drop of oil on each of the takedown pins, but that is probably not all that necessary either.

Some people don't clean their guns every time they shoot them. I do. I also disassemble the BCG and clean and scrape the bolt and clean all the other parts with CLP. I take the extractor out of the bolt and clean it too, but I would only do the ejector if I was deep cleaning everything.
 
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