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Round ball mold sizes

RedGoat

Master Class
I am in the process of rounding up the molds and other equipment that I'll need to cast my own projectiles in the (hopefully) near future. I'm focusing on casting for 38 Special / 357 Magnum and possibly getting into black powder cap & ball 36 caliber revolvers. To that end, I have purchased several .375" round ball molds and also a .360" diameter mold (for 38/357 "poof" loads). BUT... so I've read... some cap & ball 36 caliber revolvers really need a round ball larger than .375". I've been able to locate molds that measure .380".

So here's my questions: what other intermediate sizes of molds have been produced in the past in the range from .376" up to .379"? Is that even a real "thing"?
 
.36 caliber black powder bullet molds typically produce projectiles ranging from (0.360) to (0.375) inches in diameter. The exact diameter required depends on whether you are casting round balls or conical bullets, and the specific manufacturer of your cap-and-ball revolver or rifle.

Common Mold Diameters & Uses
  • (.375) inch: The most common standard for .36 caliber round balls. This size is ideal for most modern Italian reproductions of Colt 1851 Navy, 1861 Navy, and Remington pocket revolvers. When rammed into the cylinder, it shears a thin lead ring, ensuring a tight seal. Available from makers like Lyman #2665375 Round Ball Mold and Lee 2 Cavity Round Ball Mold.
  • (.360) to (.365) inch: Typically used for conical bullets in cap-and-ball revolvers. Conicals are sized to fit snugly into the cylinder's mouth without needing to shear lead the way round balls do.
  • (.375) inch (Conical): Available as part of the Lee Conical Bullet Mold lineup, these 130-grain conical bullets are designed for reproduction cap-and-ball revolvers.
Why Diameter Matters
  • Revolver Cylinders vs. Bore: The chambers on a .36 caliber revolver cylinder are generally wider than the actual barrel bore (which typically measures around (0.357) to (0.360) inches). The oversized bullet is necessary so that the loading lever shaves off a ring of lead as it seats the ball, creating a perfect seal and preventing chain-fires.
  • Round Balls vs. Conicals: Because they have less surface area in contact with the rifling, round balls need to fit tighter than conical bullets. Standard round ball molds usually cast at (.375), while conical bullet molds often drop closer to (.365).
 
As you start working with casting, you will find you can vary the diameter some with technique. For example, casting with hotter mix and keeping the mould hot by casting fast usually makes a slightly larger bullet.

Plus there are ways to to “grow” a mould, like placing strips of aluminum tape on the face of the mould half to increase the space when closed.

And of course moulds vary in actual cavity size. You might buy three “identical” moulds and get three different diameters of bullets from them.
 
Thank you for adding info to this post.

.36 caliber black powder bullet molds typically produce projectiles ranging from (0.360) to (0.375) inches in diameter.
I was thinking I'd read .375" to .380", thus the range I put into my posting.
The exact diameter required depends on whether you are casting round balls or conical bullets,
I'd not really read about or thought about differing cast diameters for round balls vs conicals. Considering what you mention below, however, makes complete sense.
and the specific manufacturer of your cap-and-ball revolver or rifle.
My understanding is that original cap-and-ball revolvers made during their "golden age" varied wildly in the dimensions of both the cylinder chambers and barrel groove diameter, and to reiterate, I was thinking that I'd read somewhere that the cylinder chambers were as large as .379" in the most egregious extremes.

I really don't have any information (or even misinformation) on the state of dimensions for modern reproductions.

Common Mold Diameters & Uses
  • (.375) inch: The most common standard for .36 caliber round balls. This size is ideal for most modern Italian reproductions of Colt 1851 Navy, 1861 Navy, and Remington pocket revolvers. When rammed into the cylinder, it shears a thin lead ring, ensuring a tight seal. Available from makers like Lyman #2665375 Round Ball Mold and Lee 2 Cavity Round Ball Mold.
  • (.360) to (.365) inch: Typically used for conical bullets in cap-and-ball revolvers. Conicals are sized to fit snugly into the cylinder's mouth without needing to shear lead the way round balls do.
  • (.375) inch (Conical): Available as part of the Lee Conical Bullet Mold lineup, these 130-grain conical bullets are designed for reproduction cap-and-ball revolvers.
I am the "proud owner" of round ball molds having three different nominal diameters: .360", .375" and .380". However, I've yet to purchase my first cap and ball revolver. I'm eyeballing the Uberti repros, both their 1851 repro and their 1861 repro. At some point, my future state will be to own an example of both models (hopefully I'll be able to stop myself from going too crazy after that).
Why Diameter Matters

  • Revolver Cylinders vs. Bore: The chambers on a .36 caliber revolver cylinder are generally wider than the actual barrel bore (which typically measures around (0.357) to (0.360) inches). The oversized bullet is necessary so that the loading lever shaves off a ring of lead as it seats the ball, creating a perfect seal and preventing chain-fires.
I thought that creating a complete seal and preventing chain-fires is the job of either an underwad or of a mouth-of-chamber sealant. But what you're saying is that the fit of ball-to-cylinder is the primary seal. Correct?
  • Round Balls vs. Conicals: Because they have less surface area in contact with the rifling, round balls need to fit tighter than conical bullets. Standard round ball molds usually cast at (.375), while conical bullet molds often drop closer to (.365).
I'd not considered bearing surface. Makes sense. The more lead that is shaved from the ball upon seating, the greater the bearing surface increase. Do not most conicals for blackpowder revolvers also incorporate a hollow base in their design for the purpose of increasing the bullet seal?
 
Thank you also for adding information to this post.
As you start working with casting, you will find you can vary the diameter some with technique. For example, casting with hotter mix and keeping the mould hot by casting fast usually makes a slightly larger bullet.
I'm aware of these factors, as well as the potential effects of alloy additives. I understand that cap-and-ball revolvers "like" as close to pure, unalloyed lead as possible. It's just that sourcing "pure lead" requires purchase from sources willing to certify it as such... I am hoping to use various sources of scrap "lead" and mix whatever "pure lead" is required to get the hardness down to a level that a cap-and-ball revolver will "like."
Plus there are ways to to “grow” a mould, like placing strips of aluminum tape on the face of the mould half to increase the space when closed.
I'm assuming you are referring to the method called "beagling" by many on one or more other forums?

And of course moulds vary in actual cavity size. You might buy three “identical” moulds and get three different diameters of bullets from them.
This is a complaint (or observation) made repeatedly by members of some other forums dedicated to bullet casting. It is caused by the age old manufacturing problem (practice? malpractice?) of using cutting tools that have been worn, sharpened, worn down again, resharpened, etc. until the cutting tool is no longer "in spec", and thus the mold (or whatever) produced by the cutting tool is also not in spec. The modern miracle of CNC manufacturing does not (and cannot) fix this issue.
 
Yes, Beagling.

I don’t know of there is any one reason for variations in moulds, but worn cutting cherries is a likely cause.

I do sometimes wonder if it’s as simple as we are expecting too much precision from a not-so-precise practice. And that practice could be the manufacture of moulds or their use in our hands. When you think about all the variations and tolerances involved in every step, it’s a wonder we can get bullets or balls to come close to what we expect.
 
I’ve got two .36 Colt’s and .375 round ball is the ball of choice. Try loading Your revolver. If the ball is the right size it’ll shave a bit of lead (wedding ring) off as the ball is seated. If the ball just drops in, it’s too loose. An undersized rb (1) typically will not be as accurate and (2) call elevate the chance of a chain fire. When we were shooting bp a lot for pistols we used nitrated paper cartridges-basically a tube, closed at one end, with that end then dipped into beeswax. Round ball inserted into closed end, powder charge added and the open end then folded over in a pigtail. Draw cartridge, tear off tail, and insert into chamber and ram home. Repeat and then cap. The beeswax would seal the chamber, the cartridge burned when the powder was ignited. Worked quite well. We used a dowel rod with a concave impression on the “closed end” to form the tubes.
 
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