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Smith and Wesson Performance Center

wolfpack076

Professional
Just purchased a new Smith and Wesson Performance Center Shield Plus in 9mm. Curious for feedback if anyone here has one and what their thoughts are on it the good the bad and the ugly ? This one came with a Crimson trace red dot optic,not installed and I never used a red dot ? Are they difficult to install and sight in ? Thanks in advance....
 
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Just purchased a new Smith and Wesson Performance Center Shield Plus in 9mm. Curious for feedback if anyone here has one and what their thoughts are on it the good the bad and the ugly ? This one came with a Crimson trace red dot optic,not installed and I never used a red dot ? Are they difficult to install and sight in ? Thanks in advance....
Red dots are quite easy to install if you have some basic knowledge of tools and have the right screw drivers needed. Remove the cover plate with an Allen wrench. Hopefully they included the proper screws for the red dot. I believe they are 6/32, 3/8 of an inch long. Position the optic on the slide. Put some blue Locktight on the screws and screw them in. Torque them to 15 inch pounds if you have a torque driver. I would let the locktight dry overnight. If you don't have any of those tools you may want to have a gunsmith or armorer mount the dot for you.

You sight them in just like you would sight in any scope. Put up a large target with an aiming point. Shoot the gun from a rest with the dot held on the aiming point on the target. See where you hit. Move the adjusting screws on the red dot toward the aiming point. Continue this process shooting and adjusting until your bullet impact is at your aiming point. I usually do this at no more than 10 yards with a pistol. Once I have it zeroed to that spot I will move back to test it and fine tune it as needed. Usually it only takes 3 to 5 shots to get it zeroed from a rest.
 
I have 3 Shields ( no Plus's but one of them is the Performance Center and another is an M 2.0) and I like them all. A lot.

To install the optic correctly, get the torque ratings from the manufacturers and use a torque driver. Degrease the screws, then dry them with alcohol and torque them down dry. Resist suggestions to use blue loctite. Torque them properly and you won't need it. Added bonus, you will be able to remove the optic later without stripping out the screws.
 
I have 3 Shields ( no Plus's but one of them is the Performance Center and another is an M 2.0) and I like them all. A lot.

To install the optic correctly, get the torque ratings from the manufacturers and use a torque driver. Degrease the screws, then dry them with alcohol and torque them down dry. Resist suggestions to use blue loctite. Torque them properly and you won't need it. Added bonus, you will be able to remove the optic later without stripping out the screws.
Considering that Glock and Smith & Wesson use thread locker on their optics cover plate screws, Holosun and Swamp Fox ship their optics with thread locker on their screws, and CH Precision ships their adapter plates with thread locker for their screws, they all must think it is an important step in the installation of an optic on a pistol. I would error on the side of the manufacturer's recommendation as it relates to thread locker.
 
Considering that Glock and Smith & Wesson use thread locker on their optics cover plate screws, Holosun and Swamp Fox ship their optics with thread locker on their screws, and CH Precision ships their adapter plates with thread locker for their screws, they all must think it is an important step in the installation of an optic on a pistol. I would error on the side of the manufacturer's recommendation as it relates to thread locker.
That’s because they know most of the people installing them aren’t the most mechanically inclined, and it’s a lot easier to just do that instead of explaining the correct process and expecting people to get it right.
 
Considering that Glock and Smith & Wesson use thread locker on their optics cover plate screws, Holosun and Swamp Fox ship their optics with thread locker on their screws, and CH Precision ships their adapter plates with thread locker for their screws, they all must think it is an important step in the installation of an optic on a pistol. I would error on the side of the manufacturer's recommendation as it relates to thread locker.
Do what you want brother, but having had this discussion with several gunsmiths and a Boeing engineer, I err on the side of if it needs LocTite to stay tight then the threads or the pitch is wrong or the screws are inferior.
 
That’s because they know most of the people installing them aren’t the most mechanically inclined, and it’s a lot easier to just do that instead of explaining the correct process and expecting people to get it right.
Most average gun owners don’t own or utilize a torque driver. Mostly they use Loctite and torque it by feel. Which is great until you find yourself trying to drill out or EZ out a tiny screw in your $500 optic on your $900 pistol because you snapped 7 T-10 bits already trying to get it off. Pro tip. Use an actual hardened Torx driver. And make sure it fits properly. If you snap the head off a screw or strip it out you got a problem.

I have low end ( Romeos) optics on 12 gauge shotguns which I regularly abuse the F out of over thousands of rounds and rolling around on courses and somehow they stay right the way I put them without the aid of LocTite. And more than one gunsmith I know of won’t even allow the stuff in their shop.
 
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