So, any idea how to get this sight off? Broken bit...
- Thread starter Magnum50
- Start date
SaltyMonkey
Professional
Lock it down with bench vice. Carefully use left handed drill bit.
Don’t go to big and most importantly take your time.
Don’t go to big and most importantly take your time.
Is it ferrous? Neodymium magnet. Pull straight up.
Bassbob
Emissary
Listen to me. I had the same thing happen about a month ago on a Romeo 5. Also no Loctite. I broke three T-10 bits. There’s no good way to drill these without screwing up your rail so before you resort to that, go to the hardware store and buy an actual T-10 driver. Those bits are weak. It will come off with a driver, I promise. Then when you install optics on anything else, especially a Romeo 5, torque it to 18 inch lbs.
HansGruber
Ronin
Beat me to it.
Probably better than the red & green “smoke” wrench…can’t be tight if it’s liquid…
Bassbob
Emissary
So do we have an update ?
I'd try spraying it WD-40 or similar spray and leave it for a day then tap the opposite side of the mount with a rubber mallet and hopefully it will pop out.tried a few things ideas... not keen on drilling it out yet, last resort. Still working on it, busy with another build/project right now.
Another alternative would be to heat the side with the stuck torx bit with a heat gun and try tapping it free and using a combination of trying to dig it out with something thin and strong like a utility knife. I recommend wearing eye protection when using this method as the utility blade can break suddenly and send a small piece springing at you.
Do not use any fine tipped impact on the broken torx directly as this may further stake in place.
This would most likely be easier to work on if you strip the upper.
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Bassbob
Emissary
So the broken off tip is stuck in there ? Just pop it out with an awl or something. There's no way it can be stuck in there to the point of having to drill it out. Then do what I said and buy a T-10 driver. No replaceable bit driver, an actual driver. It will work.
I should have taken pictures when the exact same thing happened to me, but frankly I was kind of embarrassed about the whole thing. I put one of my Romeo 5s on my brand new Beretta 1301 just to see how it looked. It didn't have any Loc-Tite on it and I didn't use a torque driver. I tightened it by feel, the exact same way I did my other 5 Romeo 5s on other guns. I broke 3 T-10 bits trying to get the screw out. Like a dumbazz I decided to drill it out. I got it off, but it screwed up the rail on the Beretta ( $40 it cost for a new one). Then I bought a legitimate set of Torx drivers and a Wheeler Torque wrench/driver. I took all my other guns with Romeo's on them and took the screws loose with a T-10 driver. Made sure I had it all the way in there and kept pressure on it while I backed them out. No problems. Then I used the Wheeler to re-torque them. Lesson learned. I don't know if it's something with the Romeo 5s, but it's awful strange someone else here had the same issue I just got done dealing with. I installed the replacement OEM Beretta rail on the 1301, torquing the clean and dry screws to proper Torque rating, put a 510C on it, shot the hell out of it (About 450 rounds now), rechecked the torque on the rail screws, no problems.
So, from here on out I will only use a bit when I am tightening things with my torque driver to the proper specs. Any removal job will be done with an actual Torx driver. And no Loc-Tite. It's completely unnecessary. A Boeing engineer and more than one gunsmith I know told me that if you have to use Loc-Tite, the screws, threads or pitch is inferior. Clean the screws with DNA and install them dry to the proper torque rating.
My $.02
I should have taken pictures when the exact same thing happened to me, but frankly I was kind of embarrassed about the whole thing. I put one of my Romeo 5s on my brand new Beretta 1301 just to see how it looked. It didn't have any Loc-Tite on it and I didn't use a torque driver. I tightened it by feel, the exact same way I did my other 5 Romeo 5s on other guns. I broke 3 T-10 bits trying to get the screw out. Like a dumbazz I decided to drill it out. I got it off, but it screwed up the rail on the Beretta ( $40 it cost for a new one). Then I bought a legitimate set of Torx drivers and a Wheeler Torque wrench/driver. I took all my other guns with Romeo's on them and took the screws loose with a T-10 driver. Made sure I had it all the way in there and kept pressure on it while I backed them out. No problems. Then I used the Wheeler to re-torque them. Lesson learned. I don't know if it's something with the Romeo 5s, but it's awful strange someone else here had the same issue I just got done dealing with. I installed the replacement OEM Beretta rail on the 1301, torquing the clean and dry screws to proper Torque rating, put a 510C on it, shot the hell out of it (About 450 rounds now), rechecked the torque on the rail screws, no problems.
So, from here on out I will only use a bit when I am tightening things with my torque driver to the proper specs. Any removal job will be done with an actual Torx driver. And no Loc-Tite. It's completely unnecessary. A Boeing engineer and more than one gunsmith I know told me that if you have to use Loc-Tite, the screws, threads or pitch is inferior. Clean the screws with DNA and install them dry to the proper torque rating.
My $.02
A torque driver is a must have for performing any firearm building, maintenance, & upgrading and will save you a lot of time and frustration.
Bassbob
Emissary
You got that right. And almost anything has a readily available torque specification. Though I wouldn't rely on Beretta CS. They still haven't gotten back to me a month and a half later. The fine folks at Brownells had the information back to me within an hour.