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The Importance of a Good Muzzle Device

Talyn

Emissary
Founding Member
That name of game, particularly when it comes to semi-auto firearms is “gas control.” When we were using semi-autos with 20-inch barrels, as were standard on the original AR-15s, a simple flash hider/compensator, such as the ubiquitous “birdcage” design worked just fine. The split brake on the front of the XM16E1, despite being decried by troops in the jungle for catching on vines, actually worked very well. Gene Stoner and his team were smart guys.


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Compare the con of it catchings on jungle vines to the pro of the bad guys not knowing where you fired from. I think I would let mine catch on the vines from time to time, but I wasn't there either.
 
weight of the comp can be as important as design. it might seem like a 1-1.5# comp/brake would feel like a lot, but on a 16" and less it's very helpful and balanced with gi gas guns operated at/with excessive gas. i have a 2.5# brake on a 24" 338lm that has little felt recoil and i can keep eyes on target @ 200 yards. radial brakes are less noisy and more effective on muzzle jump. i have bought probably $1,000 or more on brakes/comps over a 10 year period. some cost $30 and some cost $350. the most effective brake i've used cost $45. some were bought out of "this 1 looks stupid enough to try" and was VERY loud on a 300bo. for the price of titanium i've spent more on steel brakes/comp per. most Ti brakes i've bought were in the $85-180 range. the only drawback on a radial is if shooting prone with loose ground. brakes/comps that will fit a concussion device over it is a plus..................it still reduces felt recoil and muzzle jump and forces noise forward like the strike industries si oppressor.
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