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Using Ultrasonic Cleaner On Slide

SCraig

Alpha
Has anyone used an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the slide of a 1911 without any disassembly? I mean just take the slide off the gun, dump it in the cleaner, and turn the cleaner on. I would have to get some gun parts cleaner solution for my cleaner but other than that it seems like a good idea. Unfortunately sometimes my good ideas don't work out so well :cry:

I don't know what, if anything, it would do to the bluing and I really don't want to find out the hard way.

Also, do you lube it afterwards and how? It might be simpler and better to just disassemble the slide. I haven't done that on a 1911 in a very long time but as I recall it wasn't very difficult.

Oh, and I'm asking about doing the slide on my Ronin if it makes any difference.
 
Craig: welcome to TAL forum !

I have the Spgfld Ronin in .45, with the fiber optic (FO) front sight , the beautiful (when wiped down!) salt blue slide and I can tell you No part of that gun is going to get a non-traditional cleaning! So much for the facts…

…now, what I’ve *heard* is that those ultrasonics can damage finishes (Cerakote, DLC, etc) and that the way that happens involves the finish having a scratch on it prior to the ultrasonic cleaning. I dunno how deep said scratch must be to initiate damage, or any of that.

For my part, I’m not rich enough to take chances.
Window open, a little music, cup of coffee and my Ballistol is my Zen time and works just fine.
 
OK, that clearly answered my question and pretty much in the direction I expected. I remember back when I was in high school there was an ultrasonic cleaner in one of the classes I was in and I used it to clean a piece of jewelry. It separated the thing into the setting and the device it was set into and I was not happy. I've always been leery of putting something in one untested which is why I asked.

I very much appreciate the input and I'm glad I asked for help before trying.
 
OK, that clearly answered my question and pretty much in the direction I expected. I remember back when I was in high school there was an ultrasonic cleaner in one of the classes I was in and I used it to clean a piece of jewelry. It separated the thing into the setting and the device it was set into and I was not happy. I've always been leery of putting something in one untested which is why I asked.

I very much appreciate the input and I'm glad I asked for help before trying.
Its always safer to ask than to take risks. Ultrasonic cleaners are bad for anodized coatings too.
 
Probably more info than you wanted but here is something to consider.

Just get some Gunscrubber to clean residue off after brushing with Hoppes. Mineral spirits in a spray bottle works as well. You will be amazed at how much black redsidue comes out of the nooks and crannies. Keep your bolt face pointed down when scrubbing with solvent so solvent isn't running into the firing pin channel. I also use a brass scraper and bronze brushes to remove stubborn carbon from the bolt face and feed ramp. Don't overlook under the extractor hook. But remember to put an oil film back on because Gunscrubber takes all the lube off. I just fog the slide with a little spritz of Remoil and a fine ribbon of TW25 grease on the rails then wipe the excess oil off. I have been using this process for more than 40 years in Florida and my guns work and are in excellent condition. No charge!
 
Probably more info than you wanted but here is something to consider.

Just get some Gunscrubber to clean residue off after brushing with Hoppes. Mineral spirits in a spray bottle works as well. You will be amazed at how much black redsidue comes out of the nooks and crannies. Keep your bolt face pointed down when scrubbing with solvent so solvent isn't running into the firing pin channel. I also use a brass scraper and bronze brushes to remove stubborn carbon from the bolt face and feed ramp. Don't overlook under the extractor hook. But remember to put an oil film back on because Gunscrubber takes all the lube off. I just fog the slide with a little spritz of Remoil and a fine ribbon of TW25 grease on the rails then wipe the excess oil off. I have been using this process for more than 40 years in Florida and my guns work and are in excellent condition. No charge!
Me, all of the above.
 
I did something similar.
I took two cap and ballers stripped one, tanked it.
The second one I just removed the wood and dropped it in.
Two weeks later I took it a part. rust was already starting to form.
Strip everything down now.
 
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