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Advice for installing proper screw length for optic

How do i ensure i have the proper screw length to install optic on pistol? I have size for screw but not sure on screw length.
What optic are you installing onto which gun. Honestly, it’s kind of a crap shoot because there are so many combinations. I have a collection of of different screws (4-40/6-32/M3/M4) at different lengths exactly because of this. I also have metric and saw screw cutters just in case. It’s hard cutting screws with a wheel and I don’t have a belt sander. Filing screws down just plain sucks. You can buy a pretty comprehensive package of optic screws from Vortex.
 
Installing a Holosun 507k on HK CC9. I did purchase a package of different sizes and I guess I will do the trial and error method. From what I understand it's better to be a little shorter than longer. HK says M4x0.7-6 Holosun says 6-32. As long as the gun works and the optic doesn't fall off I guess i'll be good to go. Thanks for responding back to me.
 
Mounting to this gun does not require a plate. Gun is optic ready.

Then it depends on the gun as to whether depth matters based on where the screw holes are. In general, the more length, the better, up to the point of the screw not fitting.

Put the screws all the way into the gun without the optic. Use a paint marker to mark the point on the screw, fully fit, where it's even with the top of the slide cut. Take them out, drop them in the optic and see if you can see that mark. If not, they're not too long... then it's "is there enough length below the optic to provide secure engagement?" If they came with the optic, the general answer is yes.
 
New Shield X does not need plate but Shield Plus does.
I have a M&P M2.0 with a Holosun (2 of them. 1 in 9MM and 1 in 10MM). The 10MM is so much better now with the correct screws and base plate (the gunsmith got a baseplate that could stand up to energy) after the optic flew off and hit me in the head.
 
the gunsmith got a baseplate that could stand up to energy

If the baseplate is load bearing you're doing something wrong. It typically has bosses and screw holes such that the energy is laterally focused on the screws and the optic doesn't pivot.

If the optic came off, you either didn't have enough thread engagement and the combination of plate and screws fixed the engagement problem, or you had enough engagement but not enough torque to seat the threads and prevent rotation.

People think that plates secure optics to guns. They don't. They help evenly distribute load to the screws that do.
 
If the baseplate is load bearing you're doing something wrong. It typically has bosses and screw holes such that the energy is laterally focused on the screws and the optic doesn't pivot.

If the optic came off, you either didn't have enough thread engagement and the combination of plate and screws fixed the engagement problem, or you had enough engagement but not enough torque to seat the threads and prevent rotation.

People think that plates secure optics to guns. They don't. They help evenly distribute load to the screws that do.
I hate to tell you that 10MM have enough kick to sheer off cheap screws. The gunsmith that did work on my M&P M2.0 10MM also corrected the issue that S&W couldn’t seam to fix either.
 
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