What optic are you installing onto which gun. Honestly, it’s kind of a crap shoot because there are so many combinations. I have a collection of of different screws (4-40/6-32/M3/M4) at different lengths exactly because of this. I also have metric and saw screw cutters just in case. It’s hard cutting screws with a wheel and I don’t have a belt sander. Filing screws down just plain sucks. You can buy a pretty comprehensive package of optic screws from Vortex.How do i ensure i have the proper screw length to install optic on pistol? I have size for screw but not sure on screw length.
It’s not failure, it’s an opportunity to learn.Personally I’m not a pro at this because I did one right and one that had the optic hitting my head. It was a costly repair to get the screws out.
It’s not failure, it’s an opportunity to learn.
I use the same thing but they’re made by Knipex and are fairly pricey.I always called em super champs but something like this can help cut them down
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Install the optic on the plate with your choice of screws before mounting plate to gun. Look for protrusion. Then remove, add plate to gun and optic to plate.How do i ensure i have the proper screw length to install optic on pistol? I have size for screw but not sure on screw length.
Mounting to this gun does not require a plate. Gun is optic ready.
I beg to disagree. Both of my M&P’s have plates. The 10MM has an upgraded version from that cheap plastic plate. Ask me how I know.Mounting to this gun does not require a plate. Gun is optic ready.
New Shield X does not need plate but Shield Plus does.I beg to disagree. Both of my M&P’s have plates. The 10MM has an upgraded version from that cheap plastic plate. Ask me how I know.
I have a M&P M2.0 with a Holosun (2 of them. 1 in 9MM and 1 in 10MM). The 10MM is so much better now with the correct screws and base plate (the gunsmith got a baseplate that could stand up to energy) after the optic flew off and hit me in the head.New Shield X does not need plate but Shield Plus does.
the gunsmith got a baseplate that could stand up to energy
I hate to tell you that 10MM have enough kick to sheer off cheap screws. The gunsmith that did work on my M&P M2.0 10MM also corrected the issue that S&W couldn’t seam to fix either.If the baseplate is load bearing you're doing something wrong. It typically has bosses and screw holes such that the energy is laterally focused on the screws and the optic doesn't pivot.
If the optic came off, you either didn't have enough thread engagement and the combination of plate and screws fixed the engagement problem, or you had enough engagement but not enough torque to seat the threads and prevent rotation.
People think that plates secure optics to guns. They don't. They help evenly distribute load to the screws that do.
Don't use cheap screws. They're load bearing.I hate to tell you that 10MM have enough kick to sheer off cheap screws.