Advice
- Thread starter the obsrver
- Start date
Bassbob
Emissary
I think when you sober up though, you might just ought to take a second think about that 6" fence !!! Just don't seem real secure to me !!!
It's 6'. 8' panels, all 10' treated 4x4s sunk 40" into the ground with 3 bags of concrete on each one. T'ain't goin' nowhere.
jumpinjoe
Hellcat
An old farm trick for you ..... Set a tall post for hinges and put an eye bolt near the top of said post in line with the hinges. Now buy a turnbuckle and some cable. Hook the turnbuckle into the eye bolt and run the cable from the turnbuckle down to the opening side of gate . Tighten the turnbuckle till the cable is supporting the weight of the gate . You can open your gate with one hand and no straining .
To better show what I am talking about .... https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+support+a+gate+with+cable+and+a+turnbuckle&client=firefox-b-1-d&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=ffw8SQX7ejI_fM%2CedH7VrUIyZ3_EM%2C_&vet=1&usg=AI4_-kSCLBL9Ufb88rCRjc2sLSjebpglmg&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi7rJaNxYnwAhVKHc0KHePqAcwQ9QF6BAgkEAE&biw=1638&bih=808#imgrc=q3EjZbMh0BrqLM
The far upper right hand picture is what I am talking about. For the length of gate you are talking about , run the cable all the way to lock side of gate .
You will want to put your hinges and the eyebolt in the center of the support post and you will need a second eyebolt for the gate.
The far upper right hand picture is what I am talking about. For the length of gate you are talking about , run the cable all the way to lock side of gate .
You will want to put your hinges and the eyebolt in the center of the support post and you will need a second eyebolt for the gate.
It may look out of kilter in some ways, but it does work very well.
Bassbob
Emissary
That's exactly what I meant when I said turnbuckles. Works great.
C. Sumpin
Custom
Any farm fencing company that is worth their salt (should) know how to plant a corner/gate post that will not move or sag a gate, even a 16 footer, without cables. I like the stub in the ground at the open side that allows you to swing the gate open with a latch catching and holding it, same with closing. If the gate only needs to swing one way then a post stop at the closed position gives strength/security.
Bassbob
Emissary
Any wooden gate is gonna sag no matter how stout the post is unless you use turnbuckles.
C. Sumpin
Custom
OK.
Bassbob
Emissary
I'll amend that to any wooden gate wider than 6'. It's physics. And I assure you none of my posts sag. At all.
C. Sumpin
Custom
OK.
But with proper post bracing, adequate hinges, and properly constructed gates, I can't see why.
Bassbob
Emissary
Wood sags. Especially heavy wood and paneled wood gates. I've hung thousands of solid wood entry doors. Even with solid framing and 4" screws in the upper hinges those doors will sag over time and need to be readjusted.
C. Sumpin
Custom
Sounds like you know what you are talking about.
the obsrver
Master Class
The way the yard is, a sliding gate would work best. Idk why I did not think of that, but for sure that would work best.
He likely does, much to know. There are many different types of doors / gate systems. Is and can be a whole other very involved world at times. Plumb, level, strength and weight distribution are all important factors to them as well as their enclosures and casings.
If have room and works into your plans, an overhead wheel/rail system may work out well too? Sliding or bypass doors? Nothing to clog up in ground, run over or into? *Need to think of and remember clearance height though? Thinking along the lines of sliding barn doors might help? Lots of ideas here:
Bassbob
Emissary
I always wanted to do a rolling electric gate. I never got around to it. I have two 8' privacy fence panels that I bucked for gates, with turnbuckles attached to the top posts. I also have wheels to attach to the bottom, but since the turnbuckles have worked, so far for 3 years now, the wheels are on a shelf in my shed.
I suppose if one was to use a lightweight, solid wood gate of some sort and set it 6" off the ground it might not sag. Bad enough to be a problem anyway.
Posts? Buy 10'ers and sink them 4' into the ground. Bell the bottom of the hole out like an elephant's foot. Put 6" of screenings in the bottom of the hole and fill the rest of the hole with concrete. Post will not sag.
Not that I feel the need to defend my construction abilities or anything, but I was a contractor and a journeyman carpenter for the bulk of my adult life. I have no pictures of my fence ( I guess because it's just a fence), but here are some piers I dug, by hand, in the above prescribed manner. This is 10" Sonotube so the back two piers extend around 40" out of the ground. It took 90 some odd bags of concrete, mixed lovingly by me in a wheel barrow and they now support a 20X12 building which is packed fairly tight with table saws, welders, air compressors, too many tools to count, bins and bins of house stuff that needed storing and one tiny little section I call my own with a workbench I built that you could put a Buick on. Complete with hidden drawers and a discretely hinged top deck.
You'll notice I moved the doors from the gable end to the side and built a small landing. This landing will tie in with the extensive deck I'm building off the back of my house. If I can ever save up enough money for the lumber. Which is ridiculous.
I suppose if one was to use a lightweight, solid wood gate of some sort and set it 6" off the ground it might not sag. Bad enough to be a problem anyway.
Posts? Buy 10'ers and sink them 4' into the ground. Bell the bottom of the hole out like an elephant's foot. Put 6" of screenings in the bottom of the hole and fill the rest of the hole with concrete. Post will not sag.
Not that I feel the need to defend my construction abilities or anything, but I was a contractor and a journeyman carpenter for the bulk of my adult life. I have no pictures of my fence ( I guess because it's just a fence), but here are some piers I dug, by hand, in the above prescribed manner. This is 10" Sonotube so the back two piers extend around 40" out of the ground. It took 90 some odd bags of concrete, mixed lovingly by me in a wheel barrow and they now support a 20X12 building which is packed fairly tight with table saws, welders, air compressors, too many tools to count, bins and bins of house stuff that needed storing and one tiny little section I call my own with a workbench I built that you could put a Buick on. Complete with hidden drawers and a discretely hinged top deck.
You'll notice I moved the doors from the gable end to the side and built a small landing. This landing will tie in with the extensive deck I'm building off the back of my house. If I can ever save up enough money for the lumber. Which is ridiculous.
But, layout's important. If no or little room for door swing, wheels or not, slider may be better option?