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AOS Plate question

mreed911 said:
I'm very confused. If you know you're using the EPS, you know what footprint the EPS is (or can look it up in Holosun's specs), then get the plate for that footpring.
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It appears I wasn't very clear on the A12B plate for the SA Operator AOS. The plate has no overhang on the slide fits flush. The Holosun EPS optic overhangs the plate a little over 1/16th inch on both sides.
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rcurtner said:
It appears I wasn't very clear on the A12B plate for the SA Operator AOS. The plate has no overhang on the slide fits flush. The Holosun EPS optic overhangs the plate a little over 1/16th inch on both sides.View attachment 88654View attachment 88655
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I think we speak the same lingo.. when you say 2/16ths I assume that is 1/16 on each side(or 2 different locations).
If not, I am sure you would have said 1/8th.
 
SL66 said:
If SA wants to improve the AOS system, changing those tiny 6x48 screws that are supposed to hold the plate to the slide would be a great starting point.
Definitely a weak point.
Thoughts?
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I don't think you understand how screws/bolts work. A #6 screw is 3.55mm. With 48 tpi, there's quite a bit of thread engagement, which is where under proper torque the friction needed to secure it comes from. The instructions for an AOS plate have up to 25 in-lbs of dry torque. If using loctite, you should reduce this 20%, so no more than 20 in-lbs. It's why many recommend 18 in-lbs of torque on screws with loctite for optics plates. Assuming the threads have good contact and form a clamp, either dry or with loctite, they should hold just fine.

Most people don't torque them correctly - you should do it in steps. 6 in-lbs ea, then 12, then 18 (lubricated with loctite). Or 6,6,6,6 if you want to get to 24 (dry).

If you're not measuring torque, you're probably over-torquing, which weakens (stretches) the bolt. Once stretched, you need a new one - they don't "unstretch."

If your plate came loose and you re-secured it with the same screws/bolts, that's why it came loose again. You need new ones, and you need to use proper torque.
 
mreed911 said:
I don't think you understand how screws/bolts work. A #6 screw is 3.55mm. With 48 tpi, there's quite a bit of thread engagement, which is where under proper torque the friction needed to secure it comes from. The instructions for an AOS plate have up to 25 in-lbs of dry torque. If using loctite, you should reduce this 20%, so no more than 20 in-lbs. It's why many recommend 18 in-lbs of torque on screws with loctite for optics plates. Assuming the threads have good contact and form a clamp, either dry or with loctite, they should hold just fine.

Most people don't torque them correctly - you should do it in steps. 6 in-lbs ea, then 12, then 18 (lubricated with loctite). Or 6,6,6,6 if you want to get to 24 (dry).

If you're not measuring torque, you're probably over-torquing, which weakens (stretches) the bolt. Once stretched, you need a new one - they don't "unstretch."

If your plate came loose and you re-secured it with the same screws/bolts, that's why it came loose again. You need new ones, and you need to use proper torque.
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Great information in that long winded "Look at me" above.
Your opening line was quite assuming, The Redneck in me has so much more to say.
Happy Friday.
 
SL66 said:
Great information in that long winded "Look at me" above.
Your opening line was quite assuming, The Redneck in me has so much more to say.
Happy Friday.
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Yet I don't see an actual answer from you. That also speaks volumes.

Under-torquing and over-torquing - especially with the use of loctite - is a common cause of not just damaging screws, but the threads you're setting them into on the gun. Common across all optics, not just the AOS plates.

SA's apparent use of "softer" steel on these screws (plate to gun) doesn't seem to be helping, which is why harder aftermarket sets seem to work better.
 
mreed911 said:
Yet I don't see an actual answer from you. That also speaks volumes.

Under-torquing and over-torquing - especially with the use of loctite - is a common cause of not just damaging screws, but the threads you're setting them into on the gun. Common across all optics, not just the AOS plates.

SA's apparent use of "softer" steel on these screws (plate to gun) doesn't seem to be helping, which is why harder aftermarket sets seem to work better.
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I used blue loc-tite 242 with loc-tite sf 7649 primer after completely cleaning screws, plate and frame with acetone the first few tries, then loc-tite 243. Then vibra tite Vc 3. I use a wheeler FAT Wrench and torque to 16-18 inlb.
Talk about speaking volumes, you sir have been an A-- Hole since word one.
 
SL66 said:
I used blue loc-tite 242 with loc-tite sf 7649 primer after completely cleaning screws, plate and frame with acetone the first few tries, then loc-tite 243. Then vibra tite Vc 3. I use a wheeler FAT Wrench and torque to 16-18 inlb.
Talk about speaking volumes, you sir have been an A-- Hole since word one.
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Welcome to the block list. I don't mind being called an asshole for asking questions that you weren't willing to answer before heading down the asshole path yourself.
 
SL66 said:
I used blue loc-tite 242 with loc-tite sf 7649 primer after completely cleaning screws, plate and frame with acetone the first few tries, then loc-tite 243. Then vibra tite Vc 3. I use a wheeler FAT Wrench and torque to 16-18 inlb.
Talk about speaking volumes, you sir have been an A-- Hole since word one.
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And I have a zip loc bag with a dozen used screws supplied by SA, 4 more new screws arriving Monday at no charge from SA. Lexi at SA warranty sent them if you need to verify.
 
I apologize to all of my TAL family for the back and forth between myself and @mreed1911.
I do not take kindly to being called stupid. Sometimes I do not handle things the way I should.
 
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