rcurtner
Professional
It appears I wasn't very clear on the A12B plate for the SA Operator AOS. The plate has no overhang on the slide fits flush. The Holosun EPS optic overhangs the plate a little over 1/16th inch on both sides.
AOS Plate question
- Thread starter McGanksta
- Start date
SL66
Custom
I think we speak the same lingo.. when you say 2/16ths I assume that is 1/16 on each side(or 2 different locations).
If not, I am sure you would have said 1/8th.
I don't think you understand how screws/bolts work. A #6 screw is 3.55mm. With 48 tpi, there's quite a bit of thread engagement, which is where under proper torque the friction needed to secure it comes from. The instructions for an AOS plate have up to 25 in-lbs of dry torque. If using loctite, you should reduce this 20%, so no more than 20 in-lbs. It's why many recommend 18 in-lbs of torque on screws with loctite for optics plates. Assuming the threads have good contact and form a clamp, either dry or with loctite, they should hold just fine.
Most people don't torque them correctly - you should do it in steps. 6 in-lbs ea, then 12, then 18 (lubricated with loctite). Or 6,6,6,6 if you want to get to 24 (dry).
If you're not measuring torque, you're probably over-torquing, which weakens (stretches) the bolt. Once stretched, you need a new one - they don't "unstretch."
If your plate came loose and you re-secured it with the same screws/bolts, that's why it came loose again. You need new ones, and you need to use proper torque.
SL66
Custom
Great information in that long winded "Look at me" above.
Your opening line was quite assuming, The Redneck in me has so much more to say.
Happy Friday.
Yet I don't see an actual answer from you. That also speaks volumes.
Under-torquing and over-torquing - especially with the use of loctite - is a common cause of not just damaging screws, but the threads you're setting them into on the gun. Common across all optics, not just the AOS plates.
SA's apparent use of "softer" steel on these screws (plate to gun) doesn't seem to be helping, which is why harder aftermarket sets seem to work better.
SL66
Custom
I used blue loc-tite 242 with loc-tite sf 7649 primer after completely cleaning screws, plate and frame with acetone the first few tries, then loc-tite 243. Then vibra tite Vc 3. I use a wheeler FAT Wrench and torque to 16-18 inlb.
Talk about speaking volumes, you sir have been an A-- Hole since word one.
Welcome to the block list. I don't mind being called an asshole for asking questions that you weren't willing to answer before heading down the asshole path yourself.
SL66
Custom
And I have a zip loc bag with a dozen used screws supplied by SA, 4 more new screws arriving Monday at no charge from SA. Lexi at SA warranty sent them if you need to verify.
SL66
Custom
Heartbroken.
TheGeneral39
Alpha
Ordered the SA Operator 1911 AOS today. Next I will order the 407k and the A12B plate. I’m confused about the proper screws. Can I use what comes with the optic? I can’t even find the exact size that come with the 407k. I’ve seen some places say to use M4x10mm and another said use M4x12. Anyone know what is correct and if they are included or need to be purchased separately?
For the plate to gun, I'd order different screws. The SA screws are known to have more problems. Several sellers on eBay have hardened steel screws. Just make sure you torque them to the right spec.
For the optic to the plate, use the screws with the optic. Test fit it to the plate BEFORE you put the plate on the gun. The screws should engage with the plate but NOT extend out the bottom. If they do, use slightly shorter screws or grind/sand off the bottoms of the screws so they're flush or just short of flush.
Then, mount plate to gun, then optic to plate. Threadlocker of choice, using a torque wrench. Leave it alone 24-36 hours to cure.
HansGruber
SAINT
The screws that came with the A12b plate & 407C worked fine on my Prodigy.
Bassbob
Emissary
As much as I dislike the dude, he's pretty much correct. Although I have thousands of rounds on several that have no LocTite at all on them and they're still rock solid. Some of them came with LocTite dried on the threads and I left it on there and torqued it to manufacturer specs. Most, did not. Clean and dry and torqued to manufacturer specs.
I probably have 20 or so optics on handguns, rifles and shotguns and lots of rounds on all of them. Nothing has ever come loose. I did once have to drill out a screw for a Romeo 5 that I overtightened. It was just a mock up and when I went to take it off I snapped 3 or 4 bits trying to get it out. That's when I decided 3 things. From now on only hardened steel drivers for removing them, no bits in universal drivers, all of which, even Wheeler, even Brownells, are junk. No Loc-Tite unless it's already on there. And I bought a torque driver and started torquing them properly.
I probably have 20 or so optics on handguns, rifles and shotguns and lots of rounds on all of them. Nothing has ever come loose. I did once have to drill out a screw for a Romeo 5 that I overtightened. It was just a mock up and when I went to take it off I snapped 3 or 4 bits trying to get it out. That's when I decided 3 things. From now on only hardened steel drivers for removing them, no bits in universal drivers, all of which, even Wheeler, even Brownells, are junk. No Loc-Tite unless it's already on there. And I bought a torque driver and started torquing them properly.