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Ayoob: Dangerous 1911 Mistakes I’ve Seen

A tidbit I picked up from Dave Spaulding at a Red adopt class he did with his Handguns Combatives was what Dave calls “Inboard Slide Manipulation’s” and it works and I have used it successfully more times than the video.

While everyone wants to grap the Optic that causes issues (zero shift is a thing) and the way the young lady showed while is what was taught as humans your hands are not designed to work well that way (also Dave Spaulding has a degree in sports physiology so he understands how a body works)
And most of the folks that have the strength issues do not have the coordination or motivation to learn how to muscle through it. I have been through it with folks, from being weak to missing digest on both hamds you name it. It’s just a way that works great for some folks

With inboarding you turn the gun sideways and simply pinch the back of the slide. Something we have learned from optics mounted handguns we should have been doing all along at least for folks that have strength issues.

Below are a couple pics to show what I am saying.

So next time you see someone struggling show them this and it will be easier for them.
 

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yup, "dropping the slide"...and dry firing ANY gun, at the gun stores, ticks me off...

that's the # 1 reason why i ask any of the salespeople to get me a gun from the stock room..

no telling how many numbnutz's drop that slide...and on a 1911 especially.

they need to be drawn and quartered, and tar and feathered....and put into a pen with wild hogs........
 
ECS686 said:
Dropping the slide should be avoided in 1911’s due to the internal extractor. It has to be tuned and without a round of ammo gets abused. Modern semi autos with external extractors are more robust so Glocks Sig’s
Etc you don’t have to worry

Basically releasing the slide in an empty chamber with a 1911 is the equivalent of flicking a cylinder closed on a DA revolver.

And you bring shame to your family name every time you do that!!!!
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I sold the only 1911 I had (Springfield Ronin) so don't need to worry about dropping the slide on the chamber of a 1911 - at least not at the moment. I don't generally drop the slide on any semi-auto, but it's nice to know I'm probably not breaking anything on my Echelon, PDP, etc. if I do. Still, not going to make it a habit. Thanks!
 
Old_Me said:
yup, "dropping the slide"...and dry firing ANY gun, at the gun stores, ticks me off...

that's the # 1 reason why i ask any of the salespeople to get me a gun from the stock room..

no telling how many numbnutz's drop that slide...and on a 1911 especially.

they need to be drawn and quartered, and tar and feathered....and put into a pen with wild hogs........
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I'm absolutely dry firing a gun at the gun store before I purchase - I want to feel the trigger. Ideally, I'd live fire a demo, but our local ranges rarely have newer model pistols in the demo bin, so dry fire (without dropping the slide) is the order of the day. In fact, that's how I first discovered that the Echelon 4.0c Comp trigger was smoother than the Walther PDP F-series trigger. Will wonders never cease?
 
While we’re on the topic, ever hear of the pencil test with your 1911?

Shooting the pencil at a target taped to the wall was an old Army technique for teaching sight alignment and trigger control.
 

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Anchorite said:
While we’re on the topic, ever hear of the pencil test with your 1911?

Shooting the pencil at a target taped to the wall was an old Army technique for teaching sight alignment and trigger control.
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Never heard that one but didn’t run 1911’s. We use to do a pencil to see if the firing pin had issues with revokvers it would bounce up when the pin hit it holding it up.

A little off topic but in the USAF when we ran S&W Model 15 revolvers I was on an EST team (an attempt of a SWAT Team Team) and we did a lot of shooting. This was late 1980’s long before simunitions we made wax bulky rounds by taking a primed case ishjng it onto a wax sheet and the primer alone. We used it in vacant base housing and with targets on the walls it wouldn’t damage anything
 
Mr. Untactical said:
I'm absolutely dry firing a gun at the gun store before I purchase - I want to feel the trigger. Ideally, I'd live fire a demo, but our local ranges rarely have newer model pistols in the demo bin, so dry fire (without dropping the slide) is the order of the day. In fact, that's how I first discovered that the Echelon 4.0c Comp trigger was smoother than the Walther PDP F-series trigger. Will wonders never cease?
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i DO NOT dry fire a gun at the gun store..that gun belongs to the store, before it gets sold, and i respect others property..

i will rent a gun at the range, if i need to "feel" the trigger.

otherwise, i buy with no need to "feel" the trigger
 
Annihilator said:
MODEL 1911


OPERATING TIPS


Most longtime users of custom Model 1911 pistols know what is required to keep them running smoothly, but for the benefit of those who are new to the design, here is a slightly modified and abbreviated "Do" and "Don't" list included with each Nighthawk Custom gun.


  • Don't let the slide fall on an empty chamber as it will cause the hammer to eventually start following the slide down. The 1911 is designed to load a round each time the slide goes forward, and dropping it on an empty chamber will eventually knock the sear out of alignment. Grasp the slide firmly and gently lower it on an empty chamber.
  • Do dry-fire to your heart's content as it will not harm the 1911. The more familiar you become with the trigger, the better you will be able to predict hammer fall. This will result in better shooter accuracy.
  • Don't check operation of the beavertail grip safety by depressing it slowly while squeezing the trigger as this causes excessive wear on the trigger bow.
  • Do load the 1911 the way it was designed to be loaded. Pull the slide rearward and lock it back with the slide stop. Insert a loaded magazine, depress the slide stop, and allow the slide to move forward to push the top round into the chamber.
  • Do make a loaded 1911 safe in the manner it was designed for. First, keep your finger away from the trigger. Remove the magazine and then retract the slide to extract and eject a chambered round. Then gently lower the slide.
  • Do remove the empty magazine before attempting to lower the slide. Lowering the slide without first removing the magazine will often require pulling the slide rearward. Doing so will eventually peen the slide stop notch, causing the metal to start rolling up.
  • Don't over-lubricate. Place a very thin film on the slide rails and atop the locking lugs of the barrel and in their locking recesses in the slide, where the bushing or the front of the slide contacts the barrel, the barrel link pin, and the disconnector.
    Synthetic oils are good.
  • Do change recoil springs every 2,000 rounds on a 5.0-inch-barreled gun, every 1,500 rounds on a Commander, and every 500 rounds on an Officer's Model. Doing so will ensure proper feeding of loaded rounds and the ejection of spent cases.

This is all good advice, and I will add another "Don't Do" to the list. While clearing the chamber, I've seen shooters grasp the slide with their hand covering the ejection port, retract the slide smartly, and allow the gun to eject the round into that hand. It is a bad idea because a worn extractor or one needing adjustment can allow the primer of the round to make contact with the ejector and fire the round. I have seen the results of what can happen to a shooter's hand when this happens, and it is not a pretty sight.


APRI 2020 • SHOOTING TIMES
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So question; Are the spring cheap since they seem like the life is very low and they seem disposable? 1500 and 500 rounds is not very much at all. Even 2000 seems low.. I'm a new to the 1911's and have been looking to get one along with a 2011 in the near future, so anything I can learn is fantastic.. Thanks in advance..
 
Hi,

Darksidian said:
So question; Are the spring cheap since they seem like the life is very low and they seem disposable? 1500 and 500 rounds is not very much at all. Even 2000 seems low.. I'm a new to the 1911's and have been looking to get one along with a 2011 in the near future, so anything I can learn is fantastic.. Thanks in advance..
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For the most part, recoil springs are inexpensive, $7 to $10 or so. I don't carry a 1911 so I'm not religious about replacing the springs at interval, only when I notice problems. If it was a duty weapon or EDC or competition, that would be a different story.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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Darksidian said:
So question; Are the spring cheap since they seem like the life is very low and they seem disposable? 1500 and 500 rounds is not very much at all. Even 2000 seems low.. I'm a new to the 1911's and have been looking to get one along with a 2011 in the near future, so anything I can learn is fantastic.. Thanks in advance..
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Here’s the thing, it someone is going to treat their gun like the majority of Americans treat their lawn mower tham get a Glock (or any striker fired)

A 1911 is like having a muscle/sports car. You are going to have to invest some time learning how to keep air in the tires, gap the spark plugs and adjusting the choke or it’s not gonna drive/run very well.

I replace my 1911 Operator's recoil springs every 2,000 rounds or so my M&P Glocks and Sig 226 around 6,000 my HK 45 and P30 it’s good for probably 40,000 rounds

You will have to clean a 1911 more frequently like every 300 rounds where a stiker can go do 1,200 round class with zero issues (why the polymer kids get their notion a 1911 is a jamamatic or not dependable)

That said 1911’s are great guns with probably the best triggers (or nobody would try and emulate it)
They just aren’t for everyone
 
Darksidian said:
So question; Are the spring cheap since they seem like the life is very low and they seem disposable? 1500 and 500 rounds is not very much at all. Even 2000 seems low.. I'm a new to the 1911's and have been looking to get one along with a 2011 in the near future, so anything I can learn is fantastic.. Thanks in advance..
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Not very expensive, I have used Wilson recoil springs with no issues, now full size 1911’s use a factory 16lb spring, I use a 18 1/2lb variable rate, works good for different bullet weights.
 
ECS686 said:
Here’s the thing, it someone is going to treat their gun like the majority of Americans treat their lawn mower tham get a Glock (or any striker fired)

A 1911 is like having a muscle/sports car. You are going to have to invest some time learning how to keep air in the tires, gap the spark plugs and adjusting the choke or it’s not gonna drive/run very well.

I replace my 1911 Operator's recoil springs every 2,000 rounds or so my M&P Glocks and Sig 226 around 6,000 my HK 45 and P30 it’s good for probably 40,000 rounds

You will have to clean a 1911 more frequently like every 300 rounds where a stiker can go do 1,200 round class with zero issues (why the polymer kids get their notion a 1911 is a jamamatic or not dependable)

That said 1911’s are great guns with probably the best triggers (or nobody would try and emulate it)
They just aren’t for everyone
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Cleaning is no problem.. I clean mine after every range day for the most part.. It's kind of calming, so I do it just to relax.. Yeah crazy I'm sure, but I enjoy it..
 
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