Loose Grips

[Old_Me]

As I said, lots of people, even here, prescribe blue Loctite. Doesn’t necessarily mean they’re hacks. A whole lot of people, including gunsmiths, use it on optic mounts.

no, but when i watch a you tuber, i can spot the hacks rather quickly, from the pro's and experienced people.

 

[Annihilator]

Speaking of loose screws……my wife has always said that about me…..just sayin

 

[Old_Me]

Speaking of loose screws……my wife has always said that about me…..just sayin

you're lucky your nuts are tight....

 

[Seawolf]

He is a little long winded though.

 

[Jfal]

People on the internet like to recommend blue Loc-Tite for everything. And sure enough if you’re going to use Loc-Tite, blue or weaker is better since it is easier to mitigate.

My personal opinion (based on conversations with gunsmiths as well as a Boeing engineer) is to never use Loc-Tite or any threadlocker on firearms or optics. With good screws properly threaded and proper pitch, torqued to specs, clean and dry, you don’t need it. The engineer basically told me that if you have to use threadlocker then the screws or the steel is junk and/or not properly threaded.

I can't disagree with anything you got there Bob. But in my defense (for discussing blue Loctite in the past), I have a cheap Crimson Trace red dot optic, with obviously low-quality aluminum threads and/or screws, that shake loose after a few magazines in my low-to-mid grade AR-15. Your prescribed solution is buy a better optic, which is a good and realistic solution. However, I am not willing to buy a $500 optic for this particular rifle...it suits its purpose as-is...and the loctite solved my problem for $7.95. And was recommended by several different gunsmiths with whom I work (use). Sometimes a mediocre solution is good enough...? I don't think I'd even consider using Loctite on grips screws, though...now you're messing with the frame of the firearm rather than said cheap optic or the cheap riser it came with . If and when the cheap optic breaks...I might get one better (that doesn't need thread locker)...except that now that $500 optic will be $1000 in a year at our current pace

 

[Jfal]

Just to follow up, my cheap Crimson Trace optic broke...replaced it with a Vortex Viper 1-6...no loctite. The scope and riser mount cost as much as the entire rifle....I lied earlier this year!

 

[Bassbob]

Just to follow up, my cheap Crimson Trace optic broke...replaced it with a Vortex Viper 1-6...no loctite. The scope and riser mount cost as much as the entire rifle....I lied earlier this year!

And that’s the reality of it. Unmagnified optics aside it is the norm to have more money in glass than you do in steel.

I do empathize with your original position and learned my lesson in a similar way as you. I built a .223 Wylde for around $400 and I put a $100 PA 3-9x40 on it. One trip to the range and I pulled it off, bucked up and put a higher end 4.5-30x50 on it. It’s a night and day difference. While I got a good deal on a used Bushnell Elite 6500 ( $300), it’s actually about $1000 scope sitting on a $400 carbine.

 

[Jfal]

And that’s the reality of it. Unmagnified optics aside it is the norm to have more money in glass than you do in steel.

I do empathize with your original position and learned my lesson in a similar way as you. I built a .223 Wylde for around $400 and I put a $100 PA 3-9x40 on it. One trip to the range and I pulled it off, bucked up and put a higher end 4.5-30x50 on it. It’s a night and day difference. While I got a good deal on a used Bushnell Elite 6500 ( $300), it’s actually about $1000 scope sitting on a $400 carbine.

Well, I have 2 range trips now with the torque-spec tightened optic and mount (The Fat Wrench)...I'll give it one more trip (200-300 rounds/visit) and I'll check the tightness of the torqued screws. I'm optimistic...

Although I've been focusing on my M1 and M1A lately...so we will see....those are, and always will be, irons only...

 

[Bassbob]

Well, I have 2 range trips now with the torque-spec tightened optic and mount (The Fat Wrench)...I'll give it one more trip (200-300 rounds/visit) and I'll check the tightness of the torqued screws. I'm optimistic...

Although I've been focusing on my M1 and M1A lately...so we will see....those are, and always will be, irons only...

I got faith brother.

 

[SimonRL]

This.

DO NOT USE LOCTITE ON GRIP SCREWS.

You WILL regret it.

Get o-rings; a well-stocked hardware store will likely have them, or you can order them online.

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Challis 1911 Grip Screw O-Rings help prevent the grip screws from loosening and letting the grip panels shift under recoil. They can be used with any 1911 grip screws and any bushings, but are designed for - and most effective - when used with Cha...

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I just bought a set of challis grip bushings and o-rings as well as a bushing extractor tool. Money well spent. If you’ve ever goobered up a stubborn grip bushing the bushing extractor is a god send. And once you’ve got the Challis bushings in place all you need is a 7/32 ratchet to tighten or remove them. No half-@$$ing it with a flat blade screwdriver.

Bushings & O-rings

Bushings & O-rings

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Full Size Bushing Extractor

The Challis Extractor is placed over the bushing and rotated until it engages the slot. It is then firmly secured to the bushing using a standard grip screw. This keeps the tool in constant axial contact and alignment with the bushing, something...

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