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My Scout Squad in surplus walnut stock

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ScoutSquad570

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Just signed up thought I’d show the main reason why I’m here, my new Scout Squad (originally in black polymer) in an old refurbished walnut stock:

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Stock was stripped using citri-strip followed by steaming.

Used Hopes pure Tung oil for the finish.

Stock was very rough when I got it, really pleased how it turned out.


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ScoutSquad570 said:
Just signed up thought I’d show the main reason why I’m here, my new Scout Squad (originally in black polymer) in an old refurbished walnut stock:

28074b2b2d958444eed4d08240de7b02.jpg
3d4c296582489cdf11517be1cc4fa587.jpg
09cd842a36534f1073357e1fcbf37590.jpg


Stock was stripped using citri-strip followed by steaming.

Used Hopes pure Tung oil for the finish.

Stock was very rough when I got it, really pleased how it turned out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...
Gorgeous rifle.

Thanks for sharing and welcome to the forum.
 
Welcome to the forum and you did a good job with that stock, for future reference be careful using steam on wood especially a gun stock as it will cause splintering and cracking over time. The moisture content for a gun stock should be between 6-8 percent to ensure longevity, by using steam you are saturating the cells of the wood with moisture and the stock could crack during the shock of the recoil.
 
Keystone19250 said:
Welcome to the forum and you did a good job with that stock, for future reference be careful using steam on wood especially a gun stock as it will cause splintering and cracking over time. The moisture content for a gun stock should be between 6-8 percent to ensure longevity, by using steam you are saturating the cells of the wood with moisture and the stock could crack during the shock of the recoil.
Click to expand...
The Tung oil treatment saturates wood well if done correctly, should help remedy issues possibly caused by steam especially with hardwoods like Walnut. Stock looks good from this end, if treatment's done right it should be fine.
Are many ways and methods to wood finishing, even using gun oil.
 
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Keystone19250 said:
Welcome to the forum and you did a good job with that stock, for future reference be careful using steam on wood especially a gun stock as it will cause splintering and cracking over time. The moisture content for a gun stock should be between 6-8 percent to ensure longevity, by using steam you are saturating the cells of the wood with moisture and the stock could crack during the shock of the recoil.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info on the steam. I didn’t think about that! It worked great to get everything out/off but that’s not a good trade off if it effects the integrity of the stock.

Thank you.


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ScoutSquad570 said:
Thanks for the info on the steam. I didn’t think about that! It worked great to get everything out/off but that’s not a good trade off if it effects the integrity of the stock.

Thank you.


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Click to expand...
Wood finishing is mostly in technique used on what wood, for what application and duration. Steam? Enough to do the job's likely fine. Saturated until dripping wet? Likely not. If in doubt, use a "moisture meter" to test wood. Real Tung oil and it's many variations have and use different application methods sometimes too. Light sanding inbetween several thin coats is general guide. Tung oil finishes have lasted thousands of years. But, that's with MANY applied coats. (Think hundreds?) Always read and understand directions before using any finishing application, they can easily change from product to product. By the way, your rifle looks great!
 
BobM said:
The Tung oil treatment saturates wood well if done correctly, should help remedy issues possibly caused by steam especially with hardwoods like Walnut. Stock looks good from this end, if treatment's done right it should be fine.
Are many ways and methods to wood finishing, even using gun oil.
Click to expand...
You are correct to a point my 20 years of making wood bolt action gun stocks tells me to avoid adding any moisture to a gun stock if you want it to last.
 
Keystone19250 said:
You are correct to a point my 20 years of making wood bolt action gun stocks tells me to avoid adding any moisture to a gun stock if you want it to last.
Click to expand...
Experience helps!
Here's an interesting read on refinishing wood guns stocks. A bit lengthy, but "good stuff" contained in it.
NOTE: Some of the techniques used.
Is only part one of a series, but very good intro.

www.brownells.com

Trigger Times | Brownells

Trigger Times | Brownells
www.brownells.com www.brownells.com
 
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I’ve made some modification and the rifle is performing beyond my wildest dreams.

Smith Enterprise Warfighter gas assembly and Good Iron muzzle break

Tubbs op rod spring and trigger spring

WCS NM op rod spring guide

Sadlak sling swivel picatinny mount

Vortex Venom red dot on Springfield mount

Hawkeye Customs kydex cheek riser

I maxed out the elevation to get a good 25 meter or is it yards battle zero. Pretty good results in my opinion.

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NIce.

IMO, you should drop the bipod. Those old M-14 bipods are waaaay too heavy & bulky.

The USGI M2 Bi-pod was designed to be used in automatic fire where accuracy was of no concern. I never use mine.

Plus, with the M2 you might be do cosmetic damage to the gas cylinder.

Learn to sling-up with a sling and you'll shoot better than using the old M2 which sort of defeats the purpose of the Scout Squad.

My .02
 
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BlackLion said:
Very nice. Any plans for a scope? Or just sticking with the red dot? I have a Scout Scope on mine and enjoy shooting in that configuration.
Click to expand...

I’m not thrilled with the red dot. And I feel like I’m putting a restrictor plate on a Lamborghini. I wish there were more options for “scout” long eye relief optics. Definitely something I am considering.


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It would look wicked left with its own iron sights. Depending on your vision, they can sometimes be a good choice.
They don't fog up, battery doesn't die, and they hold their zero better than anything.
Extra wide field of view, too. ;)
I really like your rifle, the wood sets it off. Makes me want to bust a commie's head with a butt stroke.
<kiddin>
 
conax said:
It would look wicked left with its own iron sights. Depending on your vision, they can sometimes be a good choice.
They don't fog up, battery doesn't die, and they hold their zero better than anything.
Extra wide field of view, too. ;)
I really like your rifle, the wood sets it off. Makes me want to bust a commie's head with a butt stroke.
Click to expand...

Yea I really liked it with just the irons. Not sure I’m thrilled with the red dot setup. But since I’ve drilled holes for the cheek riser, I’m kind of torn at this point. But I agree, men stormed beaches in Normandy with the garand with just iron sights.


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I have a primo, barely fired Yugoslavian SKS. On that forum there are guys installing various optics on their rifles but they have to use these elaborate brackets to get them mounted and positioned, then they have trouble holding zero.. stuff coming loose.. a pain.
The SKS shoots pretty well with its irons, they adjust for long ranges, I'm old and half blind and even I can hit stuff out to a hundred with them. Those gunky brackets spoil the classic lines of military shooters. Just my opinion.
(My SKS has a folding bayonet, a grenade launcher and a big ladder sight for that function, the gas valve has a shut off, too. They used a low powered blank to launch the grenades. Yugos are cool.)
 
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