Bassbob
Emissary
If I'm guessing I would say since you probably torqued it correctly, you're probably not going to have a problem.
Stripped T-10 torx screw in XDM Elite optic plate
- Thread starter Minuteman76
- Start date
If I'm guessing I would say since you probably torqued it correctly, you're probably not going to have a problem.
RickAnderson
Custom
I had never considered that using loctite would lubricate the threads. But you have a point, in its liquid form, it would lubricate.
I've never reduced torque for loctite, and I never rain into a problem. I have run into problems with anti-seize, using spec torque, I reduce torque for anti-seize. I may start reducing torque for loctite....
I'd reduce the torque less with the loctite, it doesn't seem to lubricate as well as anti-seize that is mostly grease.
I've never reduced torque for loctite, and I never rain into a problem. I have run into problems with anti-seize, using spec torque, I reduce torque for anti-seize. I may start reducing torque for loctite....
I'd reduce the torque less with the loctite, it doesn't seem to lubricate as well as anti-seize that is mostly grease.
Bassbob
Emissary
Even water is a lubricant. Hence why torque values are given for “ clean and dry” fasteners.
Apparently LocTite has flip flopped on the issue in the past. There is record of someone from the company suggesting a 20% reduction, but if you ask the company today they will tell you there’s no need to reduce torque values.
I’m no engineer but by my feeble brain’s way of thinking the effect on torque values is of more concern than when to use or not use LocTite. A hundred guys here can attest that using blue LocTite and not over torquing screws hasn’t caused them any problems during removal.
I think my reaction is going to be to get some purple LocTite that is NOT in liquid form and only use it if there is some problem with screws loosening after being properly cleaned and torqued. Which knock on wood hasn’t happened yet.
RickAnderson
Custom
Ever see the snake oil salesman ads for their engine additive, saying their product is so good, let us show you how an engine treated with our product was filled with water instead of oil and it is running just fine.
They don't mention that water is pretty good lubricant.... ....nor do they mention they won't run the motor more than 1/2 an hour, otherwise all the water will evaporate out.
But lubricants do have different values in friction reduction, some lubricate more than others.
I've never stripped threads using spec torque and loctite. I have stripped threads using anti-seize and spec torque.
I don't even use a torque wrench with spark plugs in aluminum heads anymore. I purely go off the amount of turn recommendation on the spark plug box, and have never stripped threads with that method. What I have noticed and do now, no torque wrench, just a short breaker bar, you can feel a wall in the torque as you tighten, I tighten up till I hit the wall and stop, which always turns out to be darn close to the amount of turn recommended on the spark plug box.
They don't mention that water is pretty good lubricant.... ....nor do they mention they won't run the motor more than 1/2 an hour, otherwise all the water will evaporate out.But lubricants do have different values in friction reduction, some lubricate more than others.
I've never stripped threads using spec torque and loctite. I have stripped threads using anti-seize and spec torque.
I don't even use a torque wrench with spark plugs in aluminum heads anymore. I purely go off the amount of turn recommendation on the spark plug box, and have never stripped threads with that method. What I have noticed and do now, no torque wrench, just a short breaker bar, you can feel a wall in the torque as you tighten, I tighten up till I hit the wall and stop, which always turns out to be darn close to the amount of turn recommended on the spark plug box.
Minuteman76
Operator
this is exactly why I bought this pistol. I'm not as sharp w/ iron sights as I used to be (much to my chagrin).
Minuteman76
Operator
thanks everyone for your input into this. I bought a good set of wheeler torx/hex screwdriver set from PA. I also called Springfield and sent the slide back in for them to do the extraction dirty work -- requested a new set of 3 screws (without loctite) upon return. Probably use blue to anchor the adapter plate down, then purple on the optic and Fat Wrench them down to a reasonable torque (whatever that is, <15 I guess). If anyone has a tip on the RDS torque you've used, i'm all ears. much obliged.
Bassbob
Emissary
RickAnderson
Custom
There are generic torque specs based on the screw size that you can find with google search. If the manufacturer made the threads harder, they may recommend a higher torque.
I've notice on optics with torques recommended by the manufacturer, they were a good 50% more than the generic torque for that screw size. For optics I could not find a torque from the manufacturer I used the generic based on screw size and noticed it was much less than the other optics with manufacturer torque specs.
I've notice on optics with torques recommended by the manufacturer, they were a good 50% more than the generic torque for that screw size. For optics I could not find a torque from the manufacturer I used the generic based on screw size and noticed it was much less than the other optics with manufacturer torque specs.
Tinyman
Master Class
Not really an EZ out brand, but my set is Craftsman. They are a double ended bit that one end is a drill bit (for cleaning out the damaged area) and the other end is the (looks like the tip of a left-hand drill bit) actual part that cuts.
Four piece set in a black plastic case -- guess I bought it about 20 years ago.
Bassbob
Emissary
I have a similar set. All far too big for the screws we’re talking about though. And at work I have much bigger ones on my truck. Actually I had to hide them because what we use them for at work is getting brass tees out of cast iron mains after you rip them off with a backhoe. Which is leak truck work. I am a SIT truck foreman. I’m not supposed to do that. I’m supposed to call a leak truck. So they came around to collect everyone’s EZ outs. I stashed mine and told them I didn’t have any. I’ve also got 4” and 6” main clamps stashed they don’t know about. Why? Because Bassbob doesn’t have time to wait around for a leak truck every time he rips a brass tee off a main.
Tinyman
Master Class
Very similar in shape but is exactly what I have. Wok great/
That little bugger at the bottom of the set works on some pretty small screws...would work on any optic screw head on any of my guns. God forbid that need arises!
Minuteman76
Operator
thanks for these recommendations; just received the slide back, new screws and am going to loctite blue it all down now. Loctite purple is hard to come by except amazon.
Tinyman
Master Class
Sometimes, if you live close by an airport with a general aviation shop, generally one of the mechanics has a tube in their toolbox. Can't count the times I did a favor like that.
ex13F
Master Class
Picked up a XDm Elite OSP 10mm yesterday and promptly stripped the torx screws holding the plate on the slide. After going outside and beating my head on the curb I called Springfield and told them. They said they would send me replacements right away. Hadn't thought of sending them the slide and letting them remove those little #@%&!. I used to snap off tire lugs fairly regular but that was years ago. My dad always used to say, "You could tear up a crowbar in a sandpile couldn't ya boy?" I thought I'd outgrown that.
You could always reach out to customer service again and ask if you could send the slide back to them to remove the stick screws.
Bassbob
Emissary
Have you figured out what you did wrong ?
SimonRL
Hellcat
I’m trying to picture the part where you carry your pistol across the airport looking for an aviation mechanic. In my head you are played by Will Ferrel and the mechanic is John C Reilly.