Old_Me
Ronin
do you spray, then wipe dry?
or the next day (or whenever) it dries on it's own?
and, do you empty the powder, or leave it in there?
reloading questions/advice if you would please?
- Thread starter Old_Me
- Start date
or the next day (or whenever) it dries on it's own?
and, do you empty the powder, or leave it in there?
TEXASforLIFE
Ronin
I don't dry it, just lightly spray. There isn't any residue (that I could see/notice). It's best not leaving the powder in the hopper. Original container is the best container for storage. Long term storage in the hopper will discolor the plastic. The container seals better than the hopper. Less moisture and chance of degrading of powder. After spraying the inside turn it upside down for drying. This way any liquid or possible liquid will flow down. The pewter (or whatever metal-like material the measure is made of) is just as bad about static. I tried fabric sheets and the petroleum in the sheet makes it worse. Then it sticks to the substance off the sheet.
TEXASforLIFE
Ronin
BTW it dries on it's own. Just to answer your other question.
Pitdogg2
Professional
More times than not today they get a lot of use as feet for machines. Where that square neck is used to "elevate" or level machinery. We also use them in the audio industry on speakers or speaker stands where spiked feet cannot be used.Yes, they have a very flat head. When I referred to the carriage bolt, I was referring to the little square shoulder under the head. The 'elevator' head will be round or sort of an oval shape about 1/2" x 3/8" and about < 1/16" thick on a 1/4" dia bolt.
They're usually found in the 'specialty' fastener section of regular home builder supply stores like Lowes and Home Depot. I've found them at both places here in town. But you can usually ask for them at Ace or other good hardware store and a good sales rep will know about them.
elevator bolts - Google Search
www.google.com
What is an elevator bolt?
Originally designed for attaching elevator buckets to conveyor belts, elevator bolts are similar to carriage bolts, except the head is thin and flat. Elevator Bolts have a square neck that resists turning when the nut is tightened or removed. The large head provides a greater bearing surface for soft materials.
"A little known fact" as Cliff would say
Pitdogg2
Professional
In a lot of cases it is brazed
Bassbob
Emissary
I assume by now you have read the rest of the conversation that followed this comment ?
Old_Me
Ronin
on another note, i should probably give the digital and beam scales metal dishes, a light coating as well?
just been reading on a very old forum the powder "stands up" in those metal dishes?
Pitdogg2
Professional
I'm sorry no. I hit submit and seen I was on page 4 of 8.
.
TEXASforLIFE
Ronin
I haven't had any issue with sticking on the beam scale dishes (copper, stainless).
Old_Me
Ronin
ok, at another site, some one said he saw the powder "stand up" in the beam/digital scales cups.
now, we are in our "dry" humidity time, from about October to about June. after that, all heck breaks loose with high humidity.
TEXASforLIFE
Ronin
I haven't experienced it sticking on dishes, but doesn't mean it couldn't happened. A quick pass with antistatic spray will cure it.
Old_Me
Ronin
i just checked the RCBS scale, i got with the DIllon. it is an M500.
Old_Me
Ronin
do you guys, clean out the primer cups or just leave them as is, and install new primers?
i been processing some casings. first, cleaning, then polishing.
decapping and resizing will come later. i had noticed when i "practiced" decapping only a few 9mm's, a bunch of carbon was collecting on the press. i'd rather have a clean work area, than a mess.
i been processing some casings. first, cleaning, then polishing.
decapping and resizing will come later. i had noticed when i "practiced" decapping only a few 9mm's, a bunch of carbon was collecting on the press. i'd rather have a clean work area, than a mess.
youngolddude
Professional
I don't decap or clean primer cups as separate steps. I decap on my 650 as it progresses on the various steps. Doing otherwise is wasted effort as far as I'm concerned. I polish brass with the dead primers and put into a container to dump into the case feeder. Place a bullet, pull the handle and around and around they go.
Today I loaded shotgun while I tumbled .45's, then ran a few hundred Schofield. When I was ready to go inside, I dumped the batch of .45's into the media separator and then separated Schofield from .45 Colt brass.
I've never had an issue with crud built up in the primer cups in over 20 years of reloading. I understand some folks like to hand prime, but I'm too lazy to consider it. YMMV
Today I loaded shotgun while I tumbled .45's, then ran a few hundred Schofield. When I was ready to go inside, I dumped the batch of .45's into the media separator and then separated Schofield from .45 Colt brass.
I've never had an issue with crud built up in the primer cups in over 20 years of reloading. I understand some folks like to hand prime, but I'm too lazy to consider it. YMMV
Old_Me
Ronin
yeah, ok. that's what i have started to do too. leave the spent primers in, clean, then polish. i was undecided from readings, to decap, clean the pockets, then insert new primers. some said that it makes the new primers go in easier, and not get stuck on some carbon, making it harder to insert, and possibly crushing them..
thanks
thanks
Old_Me
Ronin
yeah, i went to wally's world, actually had a hard time finding Static Guard. they only had 2 cans on the shelf, and they were way in the back. so i grabbed the 2 cans. this weekend, i will spray both the Lee and Dillon powder hoppers, and the "metal" inside as well.
Old_Me,
I have been wondering this exact issue since I considered reloading. Everyone cleans everything like crazy, polishes, then leaves the primer pockets dirty as a 2-bit (fill-in-the-blank). Watching everyone tumble the crap out of the outside of a case...and then polish...then leave all the crap in the pocket over, and over, and over...
Then the guys who reload (rifle loads) for accuracy tell me they pop the old primer, scrub like crazy, then hand-press everything separately...then youngolddude confirms what a lot of others do, which is nothing to clean the pocket... This issue still vexes me after considerable thought...
youngolddude
Professional
It may be something the long range bench rest folks do (pocket cleaning), but if you are a pistol/revolver shooter, it truly makes little to no difference. Making sure you have an acceptable OAL, consistent powder charge and good crimp are more important to consider. Properly set up, your machine does these things, you just monitor your motions. If something doesn't feel right, stop and look for a reason. A case may not be in the right position, the primer may not feel as if it is seating, etc. Sometimes a case doesn't go all the way into the shell plate and the machine stops with a bang.
Forcing it will crush the case instead of it sliding into the decapper. I may not feel the primer being seated at times. I can repeat the motion and if it doesn't go, I can pull the case and examine it and replace a funky primer if need be. Sometimes the effort seems too light and it will usually be a split case or an incorrect caliber that has gotten into the mix. Take it easy and don't worry, you'll get there.
Forcing it will crush the case instead of it sliding into the decapper. I may not feel the primer being seated at times. I can repeat the motion and if it doesn't go, I can pull the case and examine it and replace a funky primer if need be. Sometimes the effort seems too light and it will usually be a split case or an incorrect caliber that has gotten into the mix. Take it easy and don't worry, you'll get there.
jumpinjoe
Hellcat
Old_Me, let me offer one more perspective on cleaning primer pockets before reloading. Back many years ago I shot an awful lot of silhouette competitions, handgun and longgun around the south east, sometimes as many as 12-15+ thousand rounds a year. I reloaded almost every shot I ever made in these comps.
Once I started reloading, I religiously cleaned each and every primer pocket by hand before using that case. Now here's the thing .... I don't know whether or not it really made a difference in the quality of my reloads, but it did make a difference in me. How you ask, well by doing anything and everything no matter how minor, that I knew to do that might make a difference in my loads, and especially a difference for the better in my comps scores, I did it. It's called self assurance or a confidence builder.
All during that time as I was also a hunter I would load my deer and hog hunting rounds too. Obviously those were far fewer and I guess out of habit I would clean those primer pockets. Probably not necessary, just habit.
Since my comp days are long past and most probably over, I haven't cleaned a primer pocket hole for carbon deposits in years. Now occasionally if I decap before throwing a load of brass into a tumbler, obviously I'll get a few with media caught up in the hole and have to clean it out. And when I do tumble de-primed brass (seldom), I always inspect them afterwards just for that possibility before I begin a loading session.
Mind you these loads are typically for plinking and other 'just fun' shooting, so competition accuracy is seldom an issue nor a thought. But don't ever count out the reality that knowing in the back of your mind you went the extra mile in your preparations does not support confidence while competing........ it does!!!
And now a question for you: You've mentioned several times about "polishing" your brass. I'm curious what your process is for that. Are you actually polishing each and every case? Or are you just mixing some polishing agent into your tumbler? Thanks.