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reloading questions/advice if you would please?

I've used nickel rods to repair cast iron. I used to do this when machinists forgot to stop their cutting soon enough. I'd build it up and they would cut again.
That's true. There is a good selection of arc rods that will weld cast iron ..... some much better than others. Good technique comes more into play than when welding with Tig. As long as the rods are 'low hydrogen', AC or DC+ they will typically work for most general repairs, but cooling becomes an even more critical issue.
 
Just a tip, but you might want to 'through' drill those bolt holes at the front of the press and add a couple machine bolts/nuts. The way it's bolted now if you were to get a 'stuck' case and pulled up on the press handle too hard, it could easily break out one or both holes on the rear edge of the press base.

I'm pretty sure the "Dillons" are made of cast iron, unlike mild steel, and it is breakable under just the right stresses. It may never in your life time break on you, but if it does, your press is most likely done. Cast can be welded, but it'll never look the same and very well may not ever really be the same again.

Just a little 'food for thought'. You got a great deal ...... it'd be a shame to break it for something so simple to fix.
no can do. i even first went out this morning to buy 6" long bolts.. when i tried drilling thru the wooden bench, the way the bench is, the drill bit was coming out of the bench. cannot really explain this, but suffice it to say, the bolt hole pattern in the Dillon press, simply does not allow me to do this..

so now, i'll have to seek out a bench stand, to mount to the bench.

i just went to inline fabrication, and ordered up the 4" dedicated stand from them.
 
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no can do. i even first went out this morning to buy 6" long bolts.. when i tried drilling thru the wooden bench, the way the bench is, the drill bit was coming out of the bench. cannot really explain this, but suffice it to say, the bolt hole pattern in the Dillon press, simply does not allow me to do this..

so now, i'll have to seek out a bench stand, to mount to the bench.

i just went to inline fabrication, and ordered up the 4" dedicated stand from them.
Before I had a place too hard mount it I used c-clamps. It gave me lots of time to reflect and collect ideas. Are you able too use t-nuts? What thickness is the mounting surface? If you use t-nuts on the surface (not undermounted) You can use the extra length of the bolt for stability/strength. If the holes going deeper than the t-nut are a hair smaller than the bolt it will thread into it (bench). Side note: this is what I can send you (see pics).
 

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Take note on the 2 different style of powder measurers as they will operate differently (attach the same way, but open and close different mechanically). I have 2 of the blue stands and 3 of the wood. Let me know what size powder bar you have and I can send you a size up if you have the small 1? List what components you have and I'll try and fill what's missing or needed for extra. Here's a pic for kicks. I did this so I didn't need too fill the powder as often.
 

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Before I had a place too hard mount it I used c-clamps. It gave me lots of time to reflect and collect ideas. Are you able too use t-nuts? What thickness is the mounting surface? If you use t-nuts on the surface (not undermounted) You can use the extra length of the bolt for stability/strength. If the holes going deeper than the t-nut are a hair smaller than the bolt it will thread into it (bench). Side note: this is what I can send you (see pics).
well, right now, the stand is on order, so i'll have to use that. the way the bench was put together, has to do with the way it was originally built by the carpenter, then at a later time, i cut it up for other uses. so there are support braces, and as a result, so close to the edge that drilling is not possible. so the Inline Fabrication "low 4" stand" should sit very nicely on top of this bench.

it just now pushes back the set up of the Dillon, but, i have already started to process "some 45 shell casings.
 
i meant to say, i am processing "some" 45 ACP shell casings for the Lee press.

cleaning, then later decapping/resizing, then maybe back to get polished.....BUT...i'm still debating wasting media just to polish.
 
Just a note to you Old_Me, 2 of my stores this past week got a BOAT LOAD of powder and primers in stock. CCI primers at 1 for $8.99/100, some Turkish primer or eastern European make at the other for $11.99/100. At least we are starting to see it locally!
 
Definitely FMJ.
i would prefer FMJ, as to cut down on my handling of lead exposure.

my question though, is why are there different sized .45 ACP bullets?

would the 451 be the most popular?

if i bought the 452, 453, etc, do i have to expand the mouth of the brass more?

this is where i am not understanding, and i haven't found (or maybe i missed it) in the reloading manual that i have.
 
i would prefer FMJ, as to cut down on my handling of lead exposure.

my question though, is why are there different sized .45 ACP bullets?

would the 451 be the most popular?

if i bought the 452, 453, etc, do i have to expand the mouth of the brass more?

this is where i am not understanding, and i haven't found (or maybe i missed it) in the reloading manual that i have.
I am definitely not the right guy to answer that question. I just know that cleaning lead out of rifling sux. The only thing I shoot lead out of is smoothbore shotguns.
 
I am definitely not the right guy to answer that question. I just know that cleaning lead out of rifling sux. The only thing I shoot lead out of is smoothbore shotguns.
yeah, all of the remaining and past reloaded ammo i have/had was lead bullets. but as i clean after every range trip, i look into the barrel, and cannot see much in the way of a problem.

not that it's not building up to my naked eye, but seemingly clean.
 
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