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reloading questions/advice if you would please?

ok, that bullet tray arrived about an hour ago...got it mounted to the Inline Fabrication stand.

but now, frustration is settling in. i have taken web page copies, since the Dillon booklet is like crap to flies.

i am having a hard time, getting the powder drop die, to bell mouth the cases.

so far, i have done it Dillons way, making sure the "charge bar arm", goes up against the
powder body" like it should.

but also too, the "failsafe rod" is off center? if i set it straight up and down, there is a loud "clunking" at the powder drop area, where the "cams" clash with everything.

if the failsafe rod is "off center", or at an angle, things are quiet??

i dunno, the Dillon instruction manual has purtty pictures, but the online manual is better, but i gotta print out, go down to the basement, make adjustments, and still no flare or bell mouth of the cases.

good thing i got steel Sawz-all blades...gonna be one hunk of metal come garbage day.

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jumpinjoe said:
Old_Me, let me offer one more perspective on cleaning primer pockets before reloading. Back many years ago I shot an awful lot of silhouette competitions, handgun and longgun around the south east, sometimes as many as 12-15+ thousand rounds a year. I reloaded almost every shot I ever made in these comps.

Once I started reloading, I religiously cleaned each and every primer pocket by hand before using that case. Now here's the thing .... I don't know whether or not it really made a difference in the quality of my reloads, but it did make a difference in me. How you ask, well by doing anything and everything no matter how minor, that I knew to do that might make a difference in my loads, and especially a difference for the better in my comps scores, I did it. It's called self assurance or a confidence builder.

All during that time as I was also a hunter I would load my deer and hog hunting rounds too. Obviously those were far fewer and I guess out of habit I would clean those primer pockets. Probably not necessary, just habit.

Since my comp days are long past and most probably over, I haven't cleaned a primer pocket hole for carbon deposits in years. Now occasionally if I decap before throwing a load of brass into a tumbler, obviously I'll get a few with media caught up in the hole and have to clean it out. And when I do tumble de-primed brass (seldom), I always inspect them afterwards just for that possibility before I begin a loading session.

Mind you these loads are typically for plinking and other 'just fun' shooting, so competition accuracy is seldom an issue nor a thought. But don't ever count out the reality that knowing in the back of your mind you went the extra mile in your preparations does not support confidence while competing........ it does!!!

And now a question for you: You've mentioned several times about "polishing" your brass. I'm curious what your process is for that. Are you actually polishing each and every case? Or are you just mixing some polishing agent into your tumbler? Thanks.
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i have 1 vibrating machine, for walnut media, (fine) for cleaning

the deal i got when i bought this set up, 2 vibrating machines came with it.

so the other one has walnut media (fine) and a capful of "Nu Finish" car polish
 
From Dillon's site about powder measure:
"The powder measure is case activated; it will only drop powder if a case is present. When a case is present the powder bar will travel it's full length until is flush with the body of the powder measure. This allows the powder bar to align with the powder funnel to drop the powder charge. The case activated feature saves you from messy spills while you setup your press or if for some reason a case is not present when you cycle the press."
There is a white plastic square piece attached beneath the powder measure linkage and it should travel as far right as possible when activated (see arrow). The bolt at the end of the charge bar changes the powder drop up or down. The Dillon powder drop funnel should be within the powder die and floats up and down. When the shell goes up into the powder die, the shell will get a flare from the funnel. If you do not get any or enough, you need to lower the die into the press tool head. You only want enough to start the bullet.
 

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youngolddude said:
From Dillon's site about powder measure:
"The powder measure is case activated; it will only drop powder if a case is present. When a case is present the powder bar will travel it's full length until is flush with the body of the powder measure. This allows the powder bar to align with the powder funnel to drop the powder charge. The case activated feature saves you from messy spills while you setup your press or if for some reason a case is not present when you cycle the press."
There is a white plastic square piece attached beneath the powder measure linkage and it should travel as far right as possible when activated (see arrow). The bolt at the end of the charge bar changes the powder drop up or down. The Dillon powder drop funnel should be within the powder die and floats up and down. When the shell goes up into the powder die, the shell will get a flare from the funnel. If you do not get any or enough, you need to lower the die into the press tool head. You only want enough to start the bullet.
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yes, i adjusted per Dillons instructions, getting that linkage as far right as possible, and to not over extend the linkage, possibly crushing it against the backstop..

i pre-adjusted the powder die, according to Dillon but, to get the flare, i also "lowered" the powder die, to facilitate in flaring the 9mm case. my first few attempts (been at this a few hours), the powder die is nearly all the way to it's last thread in the tool head, and still no flare....all according to the DIllon directions, or so as far as i can see in the video and the online set up.

it is a Dillon die, (the powder die) all the rest are Lee dies. as far as i know, the other dies are very close to being spot on for adjustments. i may still have to "tweak" them a teeny bit more.

it's just this insipid powder die, and no flaring.

my second attempt, the brass case had the drop down flare, fully inside the brass case, but it stopped right at the point were the expansion should have taken place. not much more (if any) meat left on the die to go deeper into the tool head.
 
youngolddude said:
Call Dillon. They have people who can help you. Maybe you received the wrong powder funnel.
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you hit the nail on the head..!!!!

i was watching another video, as i tried all morning to get the danged flare......just would not do it..!!

the video i was watching, i paid careful attention to the funnel, since you mentioned it..... i could plainly "see" the funnel was, well shorter.

i checked the Dillon site, i need an "F" funnel.

the funnel that is in the die now..??

is a "D", for 38 special/357 mag....(which lucky for me, i have dies for the 38 special/357 magnum..!!)

but how the guy i bought this from got that die, in a Dillon conversion box, marked 9mm/38 super, is beyond me, he only shoots 9mm and 45 ACP.

he got his conversion sets from.....(i think) a local gun store, as it is the only company that comes up on a google search.

don't know how it happened, each conversion box, had the Dillon security tape on them.

but in any event, now at least another week of waiting to get the Dillon set up, adjusted, and running.

thanks "dude", had you not mentioned that funnel.......

frankly, being at my wits end.....

i was thinking of packing it up, and selling it

and i still have yet, to get the Lee finalized in it's set up.

just looking for LPP, and bullets.
 
well, i just went ahead, and ordered up the funnel for the 10mm/40 S&W as well, since i also do happen to have that shell plate,

i also went ahead and ordered up the Dillon wrench. i have the typical mechanics 1" wrench, but it is thick, and hard to get a good grip on the locking nut.

no big loss in some ways....i took the initiative weeks ago, to buy the other shell plates, so that when i go to sell this Dillon someday, offering more reloading choices to the new owner.

i am going to the range this morning, and i'm gonna ask the guy i bought this from, if he "traded" that funnel for the 38/357 with someone else, or if he just used it for his reloads, not being able to flare the cases.
 
You would also need the locator pins to go with different shell plates. They keep the brass pushed into the shell plates. One thing you might consider is setting up tool heads in each caliber. When you change calibers, pull out the proper tool head, attach a powder measure and do minor adjustments if needed. If you do it on the cheap with one tool head, you need to set up the dies from scratch.
 
youngolddude said:
You would also need the locator pins to go with different shell plates. They keep the brass pushed into the shell plates. One thing you might consider is setting up tool heads in each caliber. When you change calibers, pull out the proper tool head, attach a powder measure and do minor adjustments if needed. If you do it on the cheap with one tool head, you need to set up the dies from scratch.
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already way ahead of you on that.

i have the original tool head that came with the press, then i bought 4 more, back in mid March.

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as recently as this past saturday, i took delivery for the locator pins for the 9mm, 38/357 & 10mm/40 S&W plates. at this point and time, i'm "looking" at only loading the 9mm on the DIllon, and 45ACP on the Lee. that was my plan.

the reasoning behind buying the shell plates and dies for the other calibers, was to have a stock of different ammo dies for when, not if i sell the Dillon in the future, to make it an "offer they can't refuse"


on another note.

i talked with the RSO i bought the DIllon from. he bought it less than 1 year ago...but no dies were available.

he never loaded ANYTHING, so it is pristine.

the only thing he did do was to mount the powder drop, and "test it"....how ever another point, he bought the "conversion kits", the 9mm and 45 ACP at a local gun store.

all he saw was 9mm/38 on the one box. BUT inside was actually a 38/357 magnum drop funnel. "D"...

i need an "F" funnel for 9mm, which i ordered yesterday.

today, i ordered the"W" for the 10mm/40 S&W.

now another point, he has had to have an eye operation for cataracts.

he "thought" he was seeing a flare at the casing mouth...but i took the funnel to him this morning, and he was beside himself, that is was the wrong funnel in that conversion kit box.

it still works out for me, as i said, i have the 38/357 shell plate and dies.

after all this time, he got fed up waiting for dies, and he wanted out of reloading. i think his eyes are still a problem, frankly.

plus, he has been saying that when his wife retires in like 3 more years, he wants to move out of state to maybe Florida.

so i'm also thinking, he just doesn't want to pack up everything.

i made out, with the used brass he gave me, and his original pricing for his reloading room stuff, and the money i got back from the recycler for the brass, his whole set up cost me $480.00, down from $700.00...which THAT in of itself was a deal at all that he had. i listed that all way back in the beginning of this thread.

an entire reloading room.....(that he had)..somehow, even though i have to buy some "extras", i still came out ahead.



i didn't think about the powder drop die, i'll get onto that when i can, thanks.
 
SUCCESS....!!

the correct powder funnel for 9MM arrived via USPS, from Dillon.

it took me all of about 5 minutes to set up the powder funnel to get a flare!!

now i took the brass casings i "practiced" on to the store where i get my reloaded ammo. the guy there, that does reloading told me to readjust that flare, it might be a wee bit too much.

also, the powder funnel came for the 10mm/40S&W.

now i await the 4 new powder drop dies for the tool heads.

a "few more" adjustments to make yet, like bullet seating and crimping, then the actual powder to be loaded.....


but right now, it's 16 minutes past my nap time.
 
Did you get the manual associated with the 550? I can make a copy if you need/want 1? In the back it list all the info needed on conversions (powder funnel #/letter, button #s, plate #s, etc).
 
TEXASforLIFE said:
Did you get the manual associated with the 550? I can make a copy if you need/want 1? In the back it list all the info needed on conversions (powder funnel #/letter, button #s, plate #s, etc).
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no manual, just the "quick set up guide.

i have however, gone online and i can easily print up sheets as i need them. this is where i found the correct funnel for the 9mm.

i just now have to "dial it in" a tiny bit at a time, for a proper flare. the guy at the store, where i buy my reloaded ammo from, saw my flare, and said it's just a "tiny bit" too much.

after i get the flare, i think some website said about .10"..?? i will then "practice" sending a few dummy rounds thru the Dillon, to decap, flare, seat, crimp. i will adjust the actual powder at a later time.

another thing too, is that i have one size of lead bullets, the flare to me, seems to be spot on. but there were a "few" FMJ bullets, that seem to go in deeper with that flare.

i dunno, i got a busy day today, plus i am not up to par for personal functioning. feeling kinda run down.
 
youngolddude said:
You may find your lead and fmj bullets have different diameters or that the bullet bases are slightly different. I've not measured the case flare before, just the eyeball or finger rubbing test.
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yeah, i did the "finger rub" myself, and frankly, i think it's perfect. the most i can try to do, is run a few thru the press, all the way to the end.

yes too, the diameters are different between the 2 bullets that i have.


and since i have an ammo can full of those lead bullets, those will be used up, before i buy any more.

i'd prefer not to shoot lead, but availability and costs are a factor as well

i still haven't even touched the Lee yet.

no LPP's, no bullets, just lot's of polished brass waiting. then i have to "tweak" those dies as well.

but the Dillon with a bit more tweaking, should be able to produce ammo in the next week or two.

it's how "i'm doing/feeling" right now that is slowing me down.
 
jumpinjoe said:
Sounds like you're well on your way to success Old_Me. Glad to hear it. Only comment I'd offer is to remember the smaller/less the flare, the longer you cases will last. If that's an important issue for you, keep it as small as absolutely possible. (y):)
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ok great, that's what i'd like to do, keep'em for as long as possible..

dam... ALL YOU GUYZ ARE GOODLY AT HELPING OUT...!!!!
 
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