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1911 TRP cycling problems

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newman0912

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HI. New to the forum. I reload and just bought this gun new. 5" barrel.
I'm loading Berry's 230 grain with Win231 5.0 grain. COAL is 1.250 to 1.260.
When shooting, the 'next round' in the mag jambs in upper part of the loading chamber and does not go into battery. (sorry if my description is wrong).
This is happening maybe once out of every 8 round magazine.

I've got about 200 rounds through the gun and have not lubricated it yet since buying it a few days ago.

According to my reloading books, I'm at the low end of the powder weight, but I'm wondering if the gun just needs to be broken in?
This model has hand fitted parts and feels pretty tight.
Any thoughts?
 
newman0912 said:
HI. New to the forum. I reload and just bought this gun new. 5" barrel.
I'm loading Berry's 230 grain with Win231 5.0 grain. COAL is 1.250 to 1.260.
When shooting, the 'next round' in the mag jambs in upper part of the loading chamber and does not go into battery. (sorry if my description is wrong).
This is happening maybe once out of every 8 round magazine.

I've got about 200 rounds through the gun and have not lubricated it yet since buying it a few days ago.

According to my reloading books, I'm at the low end of the powder weight, but I'm wondering if the gun just needs to be broken in?
This model has hand fitted parts and feels pretty tight.
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Does it do the same thing with factory loads or just your reloads ?
 
Four things commonly are responsible for the problem you describe. Maintenance, ammo, magazine, and shooter error.

A new gun should be thoroughly cleaned and lubed before shooting. The packing lube can retard slide velocity. Lube the slide with a high quality grease like TW25.

Use factory magazines. If you want after market magazines, buy. Wilson Combat.

That is a fighting handgun. It was designed for full power defensive loads. Insufficient slide velocity from light loads may not compress the recoil spring enough to cycle the gun properly. If you want to shoot light loads you may need a lighter recoil spring.

Check your grip. A loose grip on the gun can cause the malfunction you describe. Good luck with it.
 
As asked try some factory and see. That will tell you right away if it’s your loading.

As for your reloads. I have ran Berry’s 230 over 5.9 Win Super Field and my 1911 Operator runs them fine.

I would suggest lubricating (1911’s it can’t hurt) and what magazines? Load 7 and see or try other makes. I stick to Wilson or McCrrmich (Ed Beown and Less bear are fine too) and the ones that came with my Operator seem to run fine as well.

And you didn’t mention this but keep the recoil spring factory.

Good luck
 
newman0912 said:
HI. New to the forum. I reload and just bought this gun new. 5" barrel.
I'm loading Berry's 230 grain with Win231 5.0 grain. COAL is 1.250 to 1.260.
When shooting, the 'next round' in the mag jambs in upper part of the loading chamber and does not go into battery. (sorry if my description is wrong).
This is happening maybe once out of every 8 round magazine.

I've got about 200 rounds through the gun and have not lubricated it yet since buying it a few days ago.

According to my reloading books, I'm at the low end of the powder weight, but I'm wondering if the gun just needs to be broken in?
This model has hand fitted parts and feels pretty tight.
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
First rule of thumb, you need to take it down, clean it and lube it, all new guns need this
 
newman0912 said:
HI. New to the forum. I reload and just bought this gun new. 5" barrel.
I'm loading Berry's 230 grain with Win231 5.0 grain. COAL is 1.250 to 1.260.
When shooting, the 'next round' in the mag jambs in upper part of the loading chamber and does not go into battery. (sorry if my description is wrong).
This is happening maybe once out of every 8 round magazine.

I've got about 200 rounds through the gun and have not lubricated it yet since buying it a few days ago.

According to my reloading books, I'm at the low end of the powder weight, but I'm wondering if the gun just needs to be broken in?
This model has hand fitted parts and feels pretty tight.
Any thoughts?
Click to expand...
Welcome to the forum from South Texas. Been shooting 1911's for decades in my experience they need to run fairly wet with lube. Agree with others new unfired pistols should be cleaned and lubed before shooting.
 
This reminds me of yesterday, actually... not a 1911, but I was doing my RSO rotation at my club yesterday for "open to the public" time, and a guy had just come straight from the gun store with a S&W 15-22. Didn't even clean it first.

Now, the rifle is a flawed design (it is NOT an AR at all) the ejector has about 1/4" gap with the frame, and a spent case got stuck so bad I had to use a Leatherman to fish it out for the guy. But I can't blame the design for all that happened. Every other shot was a FTF, or failure to get into battery. Lots of misfires with no primer strike. I explained to him that ALL guns, especially S&W, need to be thoroughly cleaned before firing, but especially this 22 (nobody ever taught him that). It was so dirty, the rounds weren't chambering properly. We ran a bore snake through it and fixed the problem for him for about 30 or so rounds, but it got so bad he eventually had to stop. By the time he was done, it looked like the inside was coated with black toothpaste. First time I ever wondered if a bore snake could be laundered.

When he first brought it in, I was intrigued and filed it away in my mind as "potential purchases" but nope. Horrible design. I'll stick with the 10/22 when the time comes that I decide to buy a nice little 22 semi auto rifle. (Bolt and lever are more fun though to me)
 
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rcurtner said:
Welcome to the forum from South Texas. Been shooting 1911's for decades in my experience they need to run fairly wet with lube. Agree with others new unfired pistols should be cleaned and lubed before shooting.
Click to expand...
This^^^
I never understand people that take a handgun right out of the box and expect it to run without issues, especially 1911's. A handgun is a precision tool and should be treated as such. Cleaned, lubed and inspected often. My 1911's all run great with a thorough cleaning and being well lubed.
 
Talyn said:
If you have access to a skilled gunsmith a "Throat & Polish" job does wonders.
Click to expand...
And there goes the lifetime warranty…..
IMG_4508.jpeg
 
Update:
I just returned from the range.
As recommended, I added a liberal amount of Clenzoil to the slides and other parts and shot a box of (50) factory ammo - Federal 230 grain FMJ. Much better. I had (2) out of 50 that did not seat all the way in the chamber.

It was much better than the day before.
Honestly, I did not know that guns were not shipped with oil on them from the factory. I guess now I know.

Tonight I'll do a good cleaning and then oil it again.

Thanks for all your help.
 
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