Keystone19250
SAINT
I need more of these thanks for the information on where to buy them, I have a HF right up the road from me going to check them out today.
Cleaning methods?
- Thread starter sockswithcrocs
- Start date
Old_Me
Ronin
yeah, i have a "valve" attached to the blow gun, that adjusts the air flow.
it has a red handle on it, attached right to the blow gun.
Old_Me
Ronin
ok, so i went to Home Depot, they had 3 filters in stock.
it is made in China, so like that video, the guy recommends using that Plumbers pipe sealer (liquid) over the Teflon tape.
i had air leaks no matter how much i tightened the fittings.
once i applied the plumbers pipe sealer (also known as pipe compound) all leaks disappeared.
with tax, just over $17.00
and i had "spare parts" of like an extra quick connect coupler, and nipples from when i bought the airline kit with the air compressor.
the plumbers pipe sealer/compound, i had in the basement
in this pic, the Teflon tape was used.......not a good idea
in this pic, both sides got the plumbers sealer/pipe compound
now, does this filter work..??
of course it does. but only a "tiny bit" of water came out, when i went to drain it.
but that tiny amount "could have" been blown into any one of my guns, polymer or metal.
it is made in China, so like that video, the guy recommends using that Plumbers pipe sealer (liquid) over the Teflon tape.
i had air leaks no matter how much i tightened the fittings.
once i applied the plumbers pipe sealer (also known as pipe compound) all leaks disappeared.
with tax, just over $17.00
and i had "spare parts" of like an extra quick connect coupler, and nipples from when i bought the airline kit with the air compressor.
the plumbers pipe sealer/compound, i had in the basement
in this pic, the Teflon tape was used.......not a good idea
in this pic, both sides got the plumbers sealer/pipe compound
now, does this filter work..??
of course it does. but only a "tiny bit" of water came out, when i went to drain it.
but that tiny amount "could have" been blown into any one of my guns, polymer or metal.
Keystone19250
SAINT
Teflon tape was not developed to "seal" a threaded joint from air or water leaks on tapered threads. It was specifically designed to lubricate threads to make tightening (and loosening/removal) easier. Pipe dope is designed to seal leaks (multitude of choices available). Using both is a good idea on the application under discussion. Even if tape oftentimes seals your shower head just fine, that was not its original purpose...
Bassbob
Emissary
Incorrect. Pipe dope also is designed to lubricate the threads so you can more easily get the pipe tightened to the point it won't leak. Often when I find a leaking brass tee on a cast iron gas main the tap hole is chipped and wallowed out. Often I can use green dope, a layer of teflon tape and then a thin layer of white lead ( regular pipe dope) and get it to stop leaking. Cast iron mains are low pressure, typically about 8 lbs. And we are in the process ( nearly done actually) of abandoning the CI and installing plastic intermediate pressure ( typically 20-30 lbs) mains. No fittings on the plastic are doped or taped. They are either mechanical with a rubber insert or more often they are lycofit couplings, which is kind of like a tapered step down bit that is forced into the plastic with a machine and then a sleeve is forced on over that. Anything above 1 1/4" can also be butt fused or electrofused. Recently they began giving us the option of shark bite type couplings but none of use trust them or use them. Back in the day there was a similar coupling called an Ampfit and they are leaking all over the place now.
Also tapered threads don't typically get doped. i used to tell my old gasman ( laborer) that all he had to do was touch the pipe and it would be "Pre-doped"
. Sometimes on some fittings they have o rings. On a flare fitting with a tapered coupling there is no o-ring and typically yellow teflon tape is used, though just as often no thread " Sealant" at all is used.Now as for plumbing ( Water) they have a grey dope that I think is called liquid teflon or some such thing that works 1000 times better and is easier applied than teflon tape.
Pitdogg2
Professional
I'm surprised they allow Teflon on potable water pipe. After watching Dark Waters (I think that was the name of the documentary) and the forever chemicals seems strange they would still allow something like Teflon.
Most every product that used Teflon has had to find a safer alternative.
By the way I'm referring to liquid pipe dope with Teflon not the tape.
Most every product that used Teflon has had to find a safer alternative.
By the way I'm referring to liquid pipe dope with Teflon not the tape.
Sorry Bob, just repeating what I repeatedly heard from my Loctite, Permatex, Blue Monster and JetLube reps in a multitude of training seminars over the last 30 years. JetLube is the current owner of Oatey...one of the largest teflon tape sources in my industry (most is made in China).Incorrect. Pipe dope also is designed to lubricate the threads so you can more easily get the pipe tightened to the point it won't leak. Often when I find a leaking brass tee on a cast iron gas main the tap hole is chipped and wallowed out. Often I can use green dope, a layer of teflon tape and then a thin layer of white lead ( regular pipe dope) and get it to stop leaking. Cast iron mains are low pressure, typically about 8 lbs. And we are in the process ( nearly done actually) of abandoning the CI and installing plastic intermediate pressure ( typically 20-30 lbs) mains. No fittings on the plastic are doped or taped. They are either mechanical with a rubber insert or more often they are lycofit couplings, which is kind of like a tapered step down bit that is forced into the plastic with a machine and then a sleeve is forced on over that. Anything above 1 1/4" can also be butt fused or electrofused. Recently they began giving us the option of shark bite type couplings but none of use trust them or use them. Back in the day there was a similar coupling called an Ampfit and they are leaking all over the place now.
Also tapered threads don't typically get doped. i used to tell my old gasman ( laborer) that all he had to do was touch the pipe and it would be "Pre-doped"
Now as for plumbing ( Water) they have a grey dope that I think is called liquid teflon or some such thing that works 1000 times better and is easier applied than teflon tape.
Every well pump installer in the US uses dope on every tapered thread joint installed with galvanized, stainless, black steel (carbon steel) and PVC that is buried, in the basement/pump-room, or down well...some use both tape and dope, but not many. Stainless pipe threads usually require nickel-impregnated tape and dope together.
I specifically heard about teflon tape and it's origin from factory folks whom I have relied upon for my entire career selling water well pumps and components. I don't use tape to seal water joints for the exact reason Old_Me experienced with air (admittedly air is harder to seal than water in a threaded joint).
I have no experience with gas lines...different contractor base.
sockswithcrocs
Alpha
Ordered the Action Blaster based on some research and your recommendation, thank you!
Bassbob
Emissary
I would imagine with well pipe and casing pipe being more or less permanently buried they do. Admittedly the only thing I really know about wells is that I had to pay a guy $2200 to re-do the pump at my house that my daughter lives in last year after lightning strikes hit the river and then the ground and fried random appliances through out the neighborhood.
If I recall it was PVC inside a galvanized casing pipe. I know nowadays they use plastic that comes off rolls, not PVC.
$2200 is not outrageous for a pump replacement. Rolled pipe is polyethylene pipe, usually black or blue. The material costs for the equipment they replaced at your daughter's (your) house has more than doubled over the last 18 months. In your region many pump installers hang well pumps on schedule 80 PVC (white) pipe, although obviously some use poly (most common in the NE region of the midwest with very shallow wells). I could count on 1 hand the number of pump installers in WI that hang pumps with poly pipe. Contractors around here look down their noses at installers using it for that purpose, although it works just fine in shallow pump sets (under 300' deep). It certainly makes for a faster installation.
Bassbob
Emissary
Yeah I’m actually friends with the well guy and I was ok with the price. The house I live in has the second deepest well in the neighborhood at about 225’. The well at my daughter’s is about 125’.
The well at my house is original, as is the pump as far as I know and is PVC I believe. The well head at the house I just bought next door is inside the house. Thankfully the pump is working fine but I assume if it needs to be replaced it would end up with poly.
Incidentally modern gas mains and service lines are poly.
Old_Me
Ronin
be sure to check your LGS, and maybe the range you go to as well.
my range sells it for like under $10 per can.
RickAnderson
Custom
It is more accurately called a water trap. It does have a filter, its the sintered bronze filter. You're likely not going to need to filter the air, but the filter probably helps to trap the water by slowing down and redirecting the air. And that is how the water trap works, the air passes through it, gets slowed down and redirected and should catch the water before the air then makes it way out of the filter and down the hose.
Cheap air compressors and water traps are not going to catch all the water possible, I still get water sometimes out of the hose.
Seen guys post they have 3 water trap filters, in series, on their air compressor.
What I have found with my on the inexpensive side air compressor.
Draining the water out of the tank before the job helps.
Using a filter/water trap helps, but can't guarantee it will catch all water.
Having the compressor fill the tank and then wait to let it cool off, works the best to let the compressed air to cool and allow the water condense out of the air and collect in the tank.
Avoid having to run the compressor constantly, this is only time I get water out of the end of the hose from what ever device is connected to it, despite draining the tank earlier and using a filter/water trap. I use enough air that the compressor has to run constantly to keep up, this is where you end up with air still warm from compression coming out of the hose carrying water with it.
If you're doing something that you want to avoid water coming out of the compressor, and you've run the compressor a long time, take a break and let the tank fill and cool off.
If you're doing something critical that you can't have any water in the compressed air, like using a spray gun to paint, use a desiccate filter at the end of the hose. Even then water can still make it through.
One of my Cerakote sessions, I blasted the slide first which takes a lot of air and I had the compressor running constantly for a while. I turned around and started to spray cerakote way to soon, and suddenly one side of slide came out horrible, almost a totally raised bubble on the entire side of the slide. I also had been using that one desiccate filter for a while as well. I suspect water in the compressed air had made its way into the spray gun and that is how I had a 1 second of the spray come out horrible while the rest was normal.
RickAnderson
Custom
Using a water trap on compressor is best for just about everything. Even filling the tires on your car. Water that gets inside the tire will interfere with linear pressure change with temperature, and the water will help to oxidize and deteriorate the inside of the tire. Dry air is safer, performs better and helps preserves your tires.
The biggest advantage to using nitrogen in tires is simple the methods to provide pure nitrogen assures dry gas going into the tires, while compressed air most methods of supply, while many times cheaper, ends up with water in the compressed air.
The biggest advantage to using nitrogen in tires is simple the methods to provide pure nitrogen assures dry gas going into the tires, while compressed air most methods of supply, while many times cheaper, ends up with water in the compressed air.
Old_Me
Ronin
RickAnderson
Custom
People call things by the wrong name all the time. I love the latest version of the Ford Explorer's owners that call there crossover car a truck.
When company's get caught using the wrong name for something, they claim its a "Marketing Term".
Point is, the way it removes water is called a trap. There are lots of traps people call filters. And it is not going to trap all the water in the air passing through it.
If you didn't know it, "Synthetic" is a marketing term, many people would be surprised at what really comes in that Jug of Synthetic Oil they just bought.
Old_Me
Ronin
ok professore.......