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Discussion: What Will Make Your Gun Fail (and Why)?

After each time a weapon is finished being fired.
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On the underside of the rail between the notches used to lock the slide and remove the slide stop during disassembly/cleaning. I was not sure what caused it as it is not present in my other 1911s (commercial). I ended up replacing the slide on the one which woukd hang up in battery.

Anyone run into this before? Only shot 230 hardball out of them.
 
My competition gun gets cleaned when it starts to malfunction. Usually about every 5000 rounds or so. Right now it is at 7800 or so rounds out without cleaning.


EDC gets cleaned after every use. So several times a year.
 
I'm a clean freak (mucho OCD) on guns. Anytime I've bought a used gun, I clean it as soon as I get home. My latest is a Ruger P89DC, and it was sold to the LGS absolutely filthy. So filthy that at first glance, the barrel looked like it was mostly obstructed! So I do my 'tism on it and when I was done, the barrel revealed its flawless shine. While some wear & tear on the outside is acceptable if it's old, I will not buy a gun if there's any pitting in the barrel.
 
clean after 500 to 800 rounds with 10600 plus rounds on xd9 no failures use froglube products
Beware. Froglube will work IF you’re shooting/cleaning regularly-However, if you clean and lube your firearm and then do NOT shoot or clean again for several months, it WILL evaporate and leave a very nasty mess. #1 son was a fan. Cleaned his stuff, then deployed to Iraq for six months. Got home and he had an M1 Garand, a 1911 Colt Gold Cup and a J frame smith that were all Totally inoperable/actions literally “frozen” because of that stuff. It was worse than removing cosmoline🙄. He literally could not open the bolt on the Garand (even by “kicking” the charging handle), nor would the slide on the 1911 open or the cylinder release on the J frame. After a range trip where none of them worked-at all-we resorted to a kerosene soak, then broke down/scrubbed each one dried thoroughly and relubed with traditional gun oil. There are a lot of spiffy “modern” products out there that simply do not work under certain conditions (in this case storage in a climate controlled area).
 
and the age old debate continues...."to clean or not to clean"

for me, after EVERY range visit, even IF i was only testing a new reloaded formula, with maybe 10 rounds.


i pay special attention to the breech face, and the extractor, and for that i use f=good old fashion pipe cleaners

i also have a mini straight blade screw driver to scrape off any carbon caked into the corners in the breech face area.

i have a few spare recoil springs for some of my guns, others are an online order away.

i don't wait for any issue or issues to show up, i try to be as proactive as i can be.


cleaning can be a chore, if you look at it that way.

i look at it as preventative maintenance to make my gun(s) last longer...much like that all important oil change, and tire rotation...

'hell', even washing and waxing our 2 cars, i look forward to, to prevent the paint from fading and lasting longer.



so for me the debate ends at........"to clean"
 
i also have a mini straight blade screw driver to scrape off any carbon caked into the corners in the breech face area.
I use a couple of dentist's tools for the scraping. IMHO it does the best job of getting into the deepest, most difficult corners to remove the carbon. That, usually after applying Hoppe's Black solvent. That 1-2 punch removes the worst possible carbon buildup, especially in my AR's!

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