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reloading questions/advice if you would please?

Old_Me

Professional
i got that Dillon roller handle, shipped from Arizona, to China, to Budapest, to the Ukraine, to Cuba....thanks to FedWreck

sheesh, other items i have ordered and paid "regular shipping", i got my items in less than a week, now this BS...???

i was actually thinking to pay the 2 day fee, but it was (to me) too much

i ordered this on May 25th, they shipped it on the 26th......

every time i'd go to "track my shipment", it would show it was in Timbuctoo........and would be delivered by day's end...??

what day's end..??? when the apocalypse comes and goes..??

well, enough ranting....

here is a pic, i like it.....the pic, AND the handle


imma gonna send an email to the guy that sold it to me.......(as i did a few others of my set up)


1654278215065.png
 
Hodgdon has Winchester 231 powder in stock.

WINCHESTER 231

And 45 ACP loading data for a 230 grain Lead Round nose bullet :)

BULLET WEIGHT 230 GR. LRN
CASE WINCHESTER
PRIMER FEDERAL 150, LARGE PISTOL

Manufacturer Powder Bullet Diam. C.O.L
Winchester 231 0.452" 1.200"

Starting Load
Grs. Vel. (ft/s) Pressure
4.3 699 12,200 CUP

Maximum Loads
Grs. Vel. (ft/s) Pressure
5.3 834 16,900 CUP
 
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Old_Me

Professional
Hodgdon has Winchester 231 powder in stock.

WINCHESTER 231

And loading data for a 230 grain Lead Round nose bullet :)

BULLET WEIGHT 230 GR. LRN
CASE WINCHESTER
PRIMER FEDERAL 150, LARGE PISTOL

Manufacturer Powder Bullet Diam. C.O.L
Winchester 231 0.452" 1.200"

Starting Load
Grs. Vel. (ft/s) Pressure
4.3 699 12,200 CUP

Maximum Loads
Grs. Vel. (ft/s) Pressure
5.3 834 16,900 CUP
thanks

question..

how does one go about disposing of gun powder?

i'm gonna use up what i have, the nearly 2 lbs of Bullseye, but i was just wondering how to dispose of it as well
 
From Alliant Powder's web site-
How To Check Smokeless Powder For Deterioration

"The best way to dispose of deteriorated smokeless powder is to burn it out in the open at an isolated location in small shallow piles (not over 1" deep). The quantity burned in any one pile should never exceed one pound. Use an ignition train of slow burning combustible material so that the person may retreat to a safe distance before powder is ignited."

 

Old_Me

Professional
From Alliant Powder's web site-
How To Check Smokeless Powder For Deterioration

"The best way to dispose of deteriorated smokeless powder is to burn it out in the open at an isolated location in small shallow piles (not over 1" deep). The quantity burned in any one pile should never exceed one pound. Use an ignition train of slow burning combustible material so that the person may retreat to a safe distance before powder is ignited."

yeah, i live in a city, no such place to do that. neighbors will call cops and fire depts.

i'm not going to dispose of mine, i'll use it up, just wondering how someone would dispose of it.

thanks
 

Old_Me

Professional
I see that Midway now has the Speer #15 Manual in stock.
Speer still shows the 45 cal 230 grain lead round nose bullet so
there should be loading data for it in the #15 manual.


Speer Reloading Manual #15

Speer also shows it in stock-

Handloading Manual No. 15
ordered...thanks...!!!!!!

i think i will hold it there for now, regarding the important manuals to have on hand.

thanks again.
 
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Think you made a great choice on the press. Haven't gone through 16 pages of comments so my apology if comments were already covered. I typically stand for all my reloading. Unless your bench is set for proper height for standing there may be back fatique issue. I purchased the the strong mount and was very glad I did.

The one thing I wish I purchased sooner was an LED light at attaches to the underside of the press frame. Delayed for years getting one and frankly one of the dumbest decisions to delay purchasing. After installing, I would tell anyone a good LED frame mounted light is the first extra to purchase. A word of caution however....NEVER cycle the arm with anything on the "shelf" where you slde a case on to the shell plate. Guarantee if you do, you will eventually not have the item clear the frame and you will crush an LED. Experience can be a painful teacher......
 
ordered...thanks...!!!!!!

i think i will hold it there for now, regarding the important manuals to have on hand.

thanks again.
You will not find any lead bullet loads in the Sierra 6th edition loading manual, Sierra only makes jacketed bullets.
I used to load mostly Sierra bullets in my rifles.
I just got Sierra manual today from Scheels in Iowa.
 

Old_Me

Professional
You will not find any lead bullet loads in the Sierra 6th edition loading manual, Sierra only makes jacketed bullets.
I used to load mostly Sierra bullets in my rifles.
I just got Sierra manual today from Scheels in Iowa.
yeah, i saw that as well......but given that i am starting out, i wanted some of the better reloading manuals.

i can "make do" with what bullets i am using for now. if i ever switch to FMJ's, then the books i have cover those as well.

it's not like i can process much if anything right now, anyways, other than some "dummy rounds" to make sure i stay in practice and the dies stay in adjustment.

on one website, forget which one, maybe the "Ultimate Reloader" (??) it was said that sometimes a Lee press goes out of adjustment..???

i gotta find that video again.
 

youngolddude

Master Class
Read a John Taffin article yesterday and noted his favorite soft shooting load with 230 gr. lead and Bullseye was 3.5 gr. I think he said he got 750 fps.
I don't have a strong mount on my Dillon and sit on a bar stool when loading. I have a problem back and can't stand for a long time, but I can sit for several hours and crank them out.
Lead bullets do have several advantages over jacketed if you are plinking. Cost and barrel wear. I am slow to adopt some things, but I really like the new coated (lipstick) bullets now. They don't seem to gun up dies and barrels seem cleaner.
 

Old_Me

Professional
Read a John Taffin article yesterday and noted his favorite soft shooting load with 230 gr. lead and Bullseye was 3.5 gr. I think he said he got 750 fps.
I don't have a strong mount on my Dillon and sit on a bar stool when loading. I have a problem back and can't stand for a long time, but I can sit for several hours and crank them out.
Lead bullets do have several advantages over jacketed if you are plinking. Cost and barrel wear. I am slow to adopt some things, but I really like the new coated (lipstick) bullets now. They don't seem to gun up dies and barrels seem cleaner.
i cannot stand for very long periods of time. i have had 4 major back surgeries where i have more rods that a fishing tackle store, i have more screws and nuts than a hardware store.

i must have a back that musta cost well over 6 million dollars, but i cannot run like the 6 million dollar man can.

so, with the bar stool i got, i can sit, and hopefully that roller handle for the Dillon. which is "much like" the roller handle for the Lee, should be of great help for me too.

some day, maybe i will "graduate" from lead bullets, to coated ones, but i want more experience before i make that investment, in what may be higher costing bullets.
 

Old_Me

Professional
ok, my Speer book finally came in, after waiting from June 5th. as it had to go thru the post office several times as the tracking showed....

now, i jumped to the 45 ACP LRN section. here is what i have read...

WIN 231........... FEDERAL CASE, ................FEDERAL PRIMER

why are they specific with Federal cases and primers?

i noticed too, in another manual, they specified FEDERAL cases......why..???

as i have seen it thus far, the Bullseye powder i currently have, is not listed in 2 of the 4 books that i have.

snd Win 321 is not in all books as well.........

and for the books that list Win 231 powder, they recommend Federal cases...????

anyone have any opinions/answers?

thanks in advance to all
 

jumpinjoe

Professional
Generally speaking when the recipe calls for a certain case brand and/or primer is because those are the components they (book writers) used to arrive at the published results. It often doesn't mean anything bad, just caution. Some brands of cases are made with a thicker brass than others which would cause a smaller interior case capacity than another brand. So, that in turn would/could cause a higher pressure when using the same amount of powder. High enough to be dangerous ...... probably not, but I can't say for sure since I didn't do the testing. NOTE: I personally would never recommend to anyone to use/substitute any component not listed in any reloading manual recipe.

Obviously a thicker walled case would be a little stronger and probably would withstand somewhat higher pressures than another. Some cases might also have a smaller/larger flash hole. This can directly contribute to the rate of ignition of the powder charge, and the rate of ignition can/does affect the pressure curve which can/does affect consistency and probably the accuracy of your reloads. NOTE: I personally would never recommend to anyone to use/substitute any component not listed in any reloading manual recipe.

As for specifying primers, again it's due to the testing being done using that specific primer to arrive at those exact results. Some other primers won't make a lot of difference, some will/might. Be aware too some primers are of a higher or lower 'brisance' than others. That's basically the word that describes just how powerful the mini-explosion is when the primer is detonated to ignite the powder charge. Again, not usually a dangerous difference, but not what the results were derived from.

In your new "Lee" loading manual there is a chapter on primers, priming and priming tools. In that chapter it is explained how/why one particular primer brand is not recommended to be used in the "Lee" hand primer tool. Not because they are bad primers, in fact they are excellent primers, but because they are more susceptible to 'sympathetic' detonations if not handled correctly. You really should read about it. NOTE: I personally would never recommend to anyone to use/substitute any component not listed in any reloading manual recipe.

Just a WAG on my part, but 'Bullseye' and 'Win 231' have been around and used for many, many years. As newer powders come along over time it is presumed that some re-loaders will be using the newer stuff and the older ones will take a second place in popularity. In some/most manuals there is only so much room/space for written info. Now, I've heard it said that the 'HP38' is the same exact powder as the older 'Win 231', but I cannot and will not vouch for that. But you might want to look into that. NOTE: I personally would never recommend to anyone to use/substitute any component not listed in any reloading manual recipe.
 

Old_Me

Professional
yes @jumpinjoe , i had read the Lee manual several weeks ago, and i did read where they recommend Remington and CCI primers, in fact, it's also in the paper work for the press itself.

i "might" buy win 231, but when i have more time, i am going to go thru each book, for the 45 ACP and 9mm specifically, to see which 1 powder works for those 2 reloads, in each book.

yes too,....... too much info to print, but then again, each book has like a gazillion pages on the history of the people behind the company, the authors, and thier dogs, cats, etc,etc.....too much "wasted info" as i can see, (i could care less thier life's story, get to the dang point.....), when those pages could have been put to better usage publishing the powders, instead of deleting many.
 

youngolddude

Master Class
They publish what they used for particular loads, but if you substitute a different case or primer, it matters little if you stick with lower loads. You can always load up and you said you wanted low powered range loads. Don't worry. Some brass walls are thicker and some primers have more or less energy, but again, if you are sticking with lower powered loads. don't worry.
 

jumpinjoe

Professional
Old_Me said: "yes too,....... too much info to print, but then again, each book has like a gazillion pages on the history of the people behind the company, the authors, and thier dogs, cats, etc,etc.....too much "wasted info" as i can see, (i could care less thier life's story, get to the dang point.....), when those pages could have been put to better usage publishing the powders, instead of deleting many."

Well, you and me as buyers and prospective customers for other products are a 'captive audience' when we're using these manuals so powder manufacturers, case manufacturers, etc, all use any opportunity available to 'spread their fame' so to speak. While they're spending many thousands of dollars on publishing books/manuals, they can add "their life story" and/or their additional products for very little additional capital outlay.
 
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