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Suppressor set up question

I’ve got my suppressor in jail right now. I will be using it on a .300 BLK pistol and a 5.56 pistol. I’ve got muzzle devices sorted out and will be getting a flash hider front cap for the suppressor. The question I am struggling with is which FH front cap to get. Should I get the 7.62 front cap for both the .300 and the 5.56 or should I get a dedicated 5.56 FH front cap? Not sure I want to run into an issue with the wrong front cap on the wrong upper, but I’m not sure if the 7.62 FH front cap will be at least as close to effective as the 5.56 front cap on the 5.56. Any thoughts from the crew?
 
I’ve got my suppressor in jail right now. I will be using it on a .300 BLK pistol and a 5.56 pistol. I’ve got muzzle devices sorted out and will be getting a flash hider front cap for the suppressor. The question I am struggling with is which FH front cap to get. Should I get the 7.62 front cap for both the .300 and the 5.56 or should I get a dedicated 5.56 FH front cap? Not sure I want to run into an issue with the wrong front cap on the wrong upper, but I’m not sure if the 7.62 FH front cap will be at least as close to effective as the 5.56 front cap on the 5.56. Any thoughts from the crew?
The difference with the 2 different front caps would be negligible. The only way your ears will be able to tell the difference in shooting 5.56 in a .30cal can would be to buy a separate dedicated 5.56 suppressor. Shooting 5.56 through any suppressor dampens the decibel levels though it's still not hearing safe. Just a note: 5.56 ammo will not cycle through an AR platform with or without a can.

.300blk subsonic ammo is the ideal rifle caliber to surpress for the greatest sound reduction and should cycle reliably without needing an adjustable gas block. I discovered recently that one brand on .300blk ammo that I tried for the first time was getting hung up when loading from a 5.56 Pmag even though I have been using 5.56 Pmags with other brands of subsonic without issue. I picked up some dedicated .300blk Pmags and the ammo cycled no problem. I've read this could be an issue before and a couple members made mention of this though this was my first time encountering the problem.
 
.30 cal can / 7.62 using a thread adapter on a 5.56 is a minimal loss in suppression sound quality.
I use a .30 cal model so I only need one device and can swap between rifles.
As for adjuatable gas block or bolt carrier group adjustment, that depends on the rifle. Some of my 16” AR’s are plug n play as a stock rifle. Some needed “tuning”
 
I’ve got my suppressor in jail right now. I will be using it on a .300 BLK pistol and a 5.56 pistol. I’ve got muzzle devices sorted out and will be getting a flash hider front cap for the suppressor. The question I am struggling with is which FH front cap to get. Should I get the 7.62 front cap for both the .300 and the 5.56 or should I get a dedicated 5.56 FH front cap? Not sure I want to run into an issue with the wrong front cap on the wrong upper, but I’m not sure if the 7.62 FH front cap will be at least as close to effective as the 5.56 front cap on the 5.56. Any thoughts from the crew?
Side note:
You cannot switch caliber of a suppressor within the device. ie.. change it from 7.62 to 5.56 with diff parts. Not legal.
The serial number for your suppressor is for a specific caliber.

Now, you can put that suppressor on different rifles.
If you have a .30 cal / 7.62 suppressor, you can by a 5.56 to 7.62 thread adapter and run your 7.62 device on a 5.56 rifle.

You cannot alter the device itself.
 
Been a while since I asked this question. Lol. So, my set up is the following. I have one lower and two uppers. My original is the Saint Victor pistol 7.5" 5.56. I also have a .300 BLK upper with an 8.5" barrel. I bought a Rugged Micro 30 suppressor which is currently sitting in jail. I will be using that suppressor on both uppers. I wound up getting the 7.62 Flash Hider endcap for it. Partly because of the below image on the Rugged site showing the FH does pretty good on a 5.56 and partly because I don't want to have to worry about which endcap is on the suppressor for which upper.

I'm hoping to get by the range today to shoot the .300 BLK with the suppressor for the first time. I'm interested to see how it performs without having to make adjustments to the gas block with both super and sub sonic ammo. I'll let you know. I won't be shooting the 5.56 upper with it for a little bit because I don't have the QD muzzle device for it yet and I still need to get a shorter handguard for the suppressor to be able to attach. I'll follow up after my range session to let you know how things work.

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I don't know of any suppressor that is "hearing safe" when firing supersonic ammunition... my .223, 300blk, and .308 all exit a 7.62x51 end cap.
Have you ever shot a Dead Air Mask with CCI clean suppressor .22lr ammo? Or even CCI Quiet .22lr? My semi auto pistols sound like a staple gun when using these combinations. The CCI Quiet requires manual cycling but the suppressor clean ammo runs the slide no problem.

.300blk is pretty quiet with a few shots in a wide open space. In an indoor range there's a major difference in decibels.
 
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Have you ever shot a Dead Air Mask with CCI clean suppressor .22lr ammo? Or even CCI Quiet .22lr? My semi auto pistols sound like a staple gun when using these combinations. The CCI Quiet requires manual cycling but the suppressor cleans runs the slide no problem.

.300blk is pretty quiet with a few shots in a wide open space. In an indoor range there's a major difference in decibels.
Supersonic ammo produces a Supersonic Crack when suppressed, sure it's quieter than no can at all, but it's not hearing safe because the cumulative effect is loss of hearing and/or tinnitus.
 
Supersonic ammo produces a Supersonic Crack when suppressed, sure it's quieter than no can at all, but it's not hearing safe because the cumulative effect is loss of hearing and/or tinnitus.
I 100% agree with you on this and I never shoot supersonic without earpro. I was talking about subsonic ammo. CCI quiet ammo is allegedly only 68 decibel's by itself unsuppressed.
 
I’ve got my suppressor in jail right now. I will be using it on a .300 BLK pistol and a 5.56 pistol. I’ve got muzzle devices sorted out and will be getting a flash hider front cap for the suppressor. The question I am struggling with is which FH front cap to get. Should I get the 7.62 front cap for both the .300 and the 5.56 or should I get a dedicated 5.56 FH front cap? Not sure I want to run into an issue with the wrong front cap on the wrong upper, but I’m not sure if the 7.62 FH front cap will be at least as close to effective as the 5.56 front cap on the 5.56. Any thoughts from the crew?
I've shot .223 through .30 cal suppressors, and while its not quite as quiet as a good dedicated .223 can, it still tames it a lot.

I don't think I'd worry about separate endcaps.
 
Side note:
You cannot switch caliber of a suppressor within the device. ie.. change it from 7.62 to 5.56 with diff parts. Not legal.
The serial number for your suppressor is for a specific caliber.

Now, you can put that suppressor on different rifles.
If you have a .30 cal / 7.62 suppressor, you can by a 5.56 to 7.62 thread adapter and run your 7.62 device on a 5.56 rifle.

You cannot alter the device itself.
Wow, I did not know that. The ridiculous rules they come up with.
 
Side note:
You cannot switch caliber of a suppressor within the device. ie.. change it from 7.62 to 5.56 with diff parts. Not legal.
The serial number for your suppressor is for a specific caliber.

Now, you can put that suppressor on different rifles.
If you have a .30 cal / 7.62 suppressor, you can by a 5.56 to 7.62 thread adapter and run your 7.62 device on a 5.56 rifle.

You cannot alter the device itself.
To my understanding, other than rimfire suppressors, the baffles and internals are welded in and not removeable. So changing the internals is not really a viable option for center fire suppressors. On rimfires, the baffles are removeable, so I suppose it would be possible to try to change them out to a different caliber, so I'm sure this would be true. Changing out the endcap on a suppressor would be legal though. At least I would think so since there are a ton of manufacturers who offer different caliber endcaps for their suppressors.

I didn't use a thread adaptor for mine. Every bit of advice I've gotten has been not to use a thread adaptor for concentricity reasons. I bought a muzzle device threaded for 5.56 that is set up for my suppressor to fit on.
 
To my understanding, other than rimfire suppressors, the baffles and internals are welded in and not removeable. So changing the internals is not really a viable option for center fire suppressors. On rimfires, the baffles are removeable, so I suppose it would be possible to try to change them out to a different caliber, so I'm sure this would be true. Changing out the endcap on a suppressor would be legal though. At least I would think so since there are a ton of manufacturers who offer different caliber endcaps for their suppressors.

I didn't use a thread adaptor for mine. Every bit of advice I've gotten has been not to use a thread adaptor for concentricity reasons. I bought a muzzle device threaded for 5.56 that is set up for my suppressor to fit on.
Some centerfire cans are 100% user serviceable like the Rugged Obsidian line of cans.
 
Just got back from the range. My .300 black seemed to work fine without any need for a gas block adjustment (not that I could do it anyway, I don't have an adjustable gas block). I probably shot 60 rounds of sub with it and had one FTF on my last round. Not sure what happened, but I wouldn't consider my .300 BLK totally broken in yet and this was the first time using the mag I have for .300 BLK subs. I'm pretty confident with it at this point. We'll see if I get any more FTF next time I go in.

AR Pistol shot well with both supers and subs. No POI shift with this suppressor, which was nice to see. I did have one issue where I noticed my shots spraying a little. Checked the suppressor and it had loosened up a little. I tightened it up and got very good groups. Below is my last group at 35 yards with an unmagnified RDS with a .300 BLK casing next to it. Looks like 1 flyer, which may have been the FTF round I fired on my last shot. I'll take this group any day...

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