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Cleaning methods?

S

sockswithcrocs

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Wanted to get some opinions of cleaning a Hellcat Pro, particularly about cleaning inside the frame. I'm a little confused and don't want to cause damage to my new investment. I have noticed that there are basically two camps as far as cleaning methods for any handgun.

1. Using barely any cleaner. Use a small amount of cleaner for the barrel then dry brush and wipe everything else down without cleaner. Does this even clean anything?

2. Douse almost every part of the gun with a safe cleaner (Pro Shot Fouling Blaster or real avid fouling blaster), scrub and wipe everything down.

I have added two videos for reference.

1. Using barely any cleaner (actually from the Armory Life)

2. Douse method:

What cleaning method do you guys use?

Thanks.
 
I would go with something in between blast the snot out of it and dont use anything. It’s not like you’re going to clean it to death. I’m sure firing thousands of rounds through your pistol is more harmful than cleaning it. I would go and research some quality gun cleaners - Ballistol, MPro7, CLP etc, pick one and go to town. You’re going to find your own pace and technique. You’ll probably get a large variation of suggestions on the proper way to clean your pistol from - I clean it every time I fire it, even if I only shoot 1 round to I clean it every 1000 rds. Do what feels right for you and don’t forget to lube it.
 
There is a million ways to skin a cat, there is no one right way, although some are better than others.
Since there is no longer any corrosive powders or primers being used, and modern designs are more reliable, having to clean your firearm immediately after shooting every time is no longer necessary. In fact, I swear I see some fan boys of a particular brand not cleaning their firearms as some sort of bragging rights as too how long they can go without cleaning before suffering any kind of malfunction.

IMO, bore cleaner is called that for a reason, use it for cleaning the bore only, then several swatches thru to get the loosened stuff out, then swatches with gun oil to protect the bore from corrosion. Sure, as an exception, use bore cleaner for something else that is stubborn, but that should be the exception, not the rule.

Safest thing to clean with is the same oil you lubricate it with, that is the military's position, the "C" in CLP stands for Cleaning. Its safe for polymer, military has had various forms of plastic on their firearms for nearly a 100 years, been using CLP for nearly 50 years. But its also one the less effective cleaners, at least in time and effort, it will take longer and more work to clean the weapon.

Some of the chemical cleaners for firearms have some nasty solvents that can damage the polymer, at least the surface and change its appearance. Make sure any cleaner you buy says its safe for polymer/plastic.

I know some will scream sacrilege, but on my polymer frames, I have been spraying them down, inside and out with simply green, scrubbing with a brush and rags, then flushing out the simple green with denatured alcohol, (you don't want to let Simple green lay on metal inside the frame) then oiling it up and wiping down the polymer with a little gun oil or WD-40 (on the exterior only). The denatured alcohol will dry thing out so bad, it will look bad, so wiping it down with something makes it look better. Obviously lubricate it well, cause that cleaning regime will remove just about all the lubricant in the frame.....

Simple Green is bad for aluminum, something about how alkaline it is, true you can use it without damage if you flush it all away, but something like an aluminum frame or receiver, like an AR-15, there are nocks and crannies for it to get into and lay there long term and could do some damage.
 
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Greetings from Pennsylvania. I use Seal 1 products exclusively and I clean every time I use any weapon whether I fire a few rounds or have a range day. Like all the above forum members advised look at the different products (tons available) and find out what works best for you. Just my two cents.....
 
While I did not watch the videos, I've NEVER "sprayed down" any firearm. Of course, I've never dropped one in mud either. I also don't shoot black powder (a whole 'nother animal for cleaning). Oil and cleaner quickly soaks up under some grip panels, makes a mess inside the magazine well...thinking 1911 here...
 
sockswithcrocs said:
Wanted to get some opinions of cleaning a Hellcat Pro, particularly about cleaning inside the frame. I'm a little confused and don't want to cause damage to my new investment. I have noticed that there are basically two camps as far as cleaning methods for any handgun.

1. Using barely any cleaner. Use a small amount of cleaner for the barrel then dry brush and wipe everything else down without cleaner. Does this even clean anything?

2. Douse almost every part of the gun with a safe cleaner (Pro Shot Fouling Blaster or real avid fouling blaster), scrub and wipe everything down.

I have added two videos for reference.

1. Using barely any cleaner (actually from the Armory Life)

2. Douse method:

What cleaning method do you guys use?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
for ALL my guns, polymer or metal, to clean inside the frame?

i spray it with "polymer safe" cleaning fluid.

i have the Tetra brand.

then i wipe it dry with a blue, shop paper towel, and patches. many times too, i use my "pancake" air compressor with a low pressure blow gun....

never any issues.

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However often or extensively you decide to clean your firearm, as Rick said, use bore solvent ONLY ON THE BORE. CLP and other cleaners generally will not hurt the frame of your gun. I typically clean my guns after I shoot them. Plastic striker guns I will lightly spray a rag with CLP and wipe the frame, then hit it with a clean, dry rag and put a drop of oil on the rails and where metal contacts metal. With the gun disassembled, manipulate the trigger and look and see where the engagement points are. Just a drop.

Use a CLP sprayed rag to clean the slide and the outside of the barrel. Make sure to get the breech face and the rails. Keep solvents and oils out of the striker channel. Clean the bore/barrel with bore cleaner and then lightly oil the same as you would any gun.
 
Old_Me said:
for ALL my guns, polymer or metal, to clean inside the frame?

i spray it with "polymer safe" cleaning fluid.

i have the Tetra brand.

then i wipe it dry with a blue, shop paper towel, and patches. many times too, i use my "pancake" air compressor with a low pressure blow gun....

never any issues.

View attachment 31815


View attachment 31816
Click to expand...
I also occasionally use an air compressor to clean the inside of a frame with a blow gun. It's definitely a good way to get into the tight spots.

People using this method just need to be aware that an air compressor collects moisture and it will get sprayed into the frame if you are not careful. I recommend anyone using this method to pickup an air compressor inline moisture filter. These filters are typically low cost and can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, Amazon, etc...

I only use the air compressor method roughly 50ft away from the house as not to spread lead deposits inside.

Here's an example of an air compressor moisture filter.

 
I do not clean after every shooting period, but do when the gun appears dirty. Most gun solvents work and be sure to keep toxic stuff off of materials they harm (read the info on bottle). Most oils lubricate and some have been compared in testing for rust prevention and lubricity. You can probably find them on the Internet. I have a box full of lubes, solvents and such because I look for items that make the job easier. Most do not live up to the hype, but some do work better than others. People have been reported to have damaged guns from careless cleaning. If your gun gets crunchy or the action sticky or stiff, you should clean. If your groups are getting larger and you are handling the gun correctly, your bore may need attention. Many folks over-lube their gun. Stick to recommended lubrication. If you overdo, no real harm except an oily mess and perhaps your glasses getting sprayed.
Do what's reasonable and don't sweat it.
 
I’m a 1911 newbie (shot my first one a month ago). I currently have a Springfield 9mm Garrison and a ATI GSG .22lr for plinking and working on shooting fundamentals

What I’ve been reading so far is that “1911’s like to run wet (?)” - that lubrication is key. I have to say I’m kind of pleased that I’ve field stripped, cleaned and lubricated the Garrison twice and the GSG once (even got the slide lock lever back in…okay, the first time the good guy at my LSG helped me with the Garrison😎)

I’ve seen a lot of videos referring to CLP and Slide Glide. I’ve been using Hoppe’s Cleaner and Gun Oil
 
The Night Rider said:
I clean my Glocks with Dawn and hot water
Click to expand...
Why not put it in the dishwasher?
yattwood said:
I’m a 1911 newbie (shot my first one a month ago). I currently have a Springfield 9mm Garrison and a ATI GSG .22lr for plinking and working on shooting fundamentals

What I’ve been reading so far is that “1911’s like to run wet (?)” - that lubrication is key. I have to say I’m kind of pleased that I’ve field stripped, cleaned and lubricated the Garrison twice and the GSG once (even got the slide lock lever back in…okay, the first time the good guy at my LSG helped me with the Garrison😎)

I’ve seen a lot of videos referring to CLP and Slide Glide. I’ve been using Hoppe’s Cleaner and Gun Oil
Click to expand...
There is such a thing as too much lube, if you're getting lube inside the magazine and on the rounds, you're using to much lube. Lube in the magazine and on the round can cause malfunctions.

For gas operated rifles, lube in the wrong places in the gas systems can cause malfunctions as well.... ...so if there are places in the gas system that call for lube, using too much could get it to migrate to the wrong places....

And use the correct lube for the conditions....

I prefer grease over oil, but don't use grease on firing pins or strikers, or some places that you have to rely on the oil wicking or creeping into the surface.... .....and if I'm going to shoot in below freezing temps, I'll clean out the grease and replace it with oil....

A 1911 wet with lube to me, means a little oil seeping out around the edges of the rails, if oil is dripping from the pistol or if your slinging and splashing oil off the slide and out the ejection port as it cycles, its drowned in oil and is surely getting in the magazine and on the rounds....
 
Again, this is one of those statements that will get opinions that are diametrically opposed. I make sure that the slides on my 1911s are well lubed with grease and the everything else gets a light oiling. Following the manual for your respective 1911s on how to lubricate the rest of the gun should be fine. If you like to go a bit heavy with the lube that’s fine, just keep it away from the firing pin channel What I would be aware of is that .22lr pistols can often be a bit finicky at the best of times. I wouldn’t overlube and let the oil get around too much.
 
10mmLife said:
I also occasionally use an air compressor to clean the inside of a frame with a blow gun. It's definitely a good way to get into the tight spots.

People using this method just need to be aware that an air compressor collects moisture and it will get sprayed into the frame if you are not careful. I recommend anyone using this method to pickup an air compressor inline moisture filter. These filters are typically low cost and can be found at Home Depot, Lowes, Amazon, etc...

I only use the air compressor method roughly 50ft away from the house as not to spread lead deposits inside.

Here's an example of an air compressor moisture filter.

Click to expand...
yeah, i should have thought about the moisture from the compressor. i use such a low volume of air, so as to not knock off any springs, that are super tiny.

i checked with Home Depot, they have the exact filter as in the video. Harbor Freights filter IS cheaper, just not in stock.

no worries, for like nearly $19 in cost.

picking it up tomorrow.
 
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