testtest

reloading questions/advice if you would please?

i had ordered up from Etsy.com, a piece that fits into the primer catch cup, to my Dillon 550c.

fits perfectly, and does the job.

the same company that made this 3D piece, makes other Dillon press pieces as well

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this is what i had made to catch the spent primers. it did the job, but it does looks ugly

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I saw a new post on this thread and it took me to the beginning of the post, I finally figured out it was mostly old and I posted on it previously.
If you want a case trimmer, I got two of them. $50 + shipping. I never needed them. It's true you may get uneven crimps with various lengths, but the factory crimp die would overcome that.
I'm a fan of the poly coated lead bullets that you can get anywhere. I'm waiting on an order of 2K at the moment. I also like to use lighter than standard bullets such as 125 gr. .38 Special or 180-200 gr. .45 ACP.
 
i also just got this Lee breech lock wrench, from Etsy.com

this works better that the plastic ones i bought, when you have that tiny allen lock screw..the plastic ones, i can use for the Dillon with the Lee dies, with out those breech lock nuts.

this one is made of metal, aluminum.

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Old_Me, that's a sweet little wrench. I can see how it would work much better then the short, little, plastic ones. Did you also buy a left handed one? You know at some point after tightening them they'll have to be loosened. :sneaky::rolleyes:
 
Old_Me, that's a sweet little wrench. I can see how it would work much better then the short, little, plastic ones. Did you also buy a left handed one? You know at some point after tightening them they'll have to be loosened. :sneaky::rolleyes:
that reminds me of the time, when i was younger, and turning wrenches for a living. i had a young man fresh outta tech school, that was my helper/gas jockey.

the Snap-On dealer came for his weekly visit.

the dealer tells my newbie about a great deal on left handed screw drivers...

i heard that, took the dealer to the side, in private, as not to embarrass him, and told the dealer, my newbie doesn't know the jokes, and if he (the dealer) says any such joke again, he will lose my nearly $10,000 a year tool sales.....(back then $10,000 was probably like $70,000 nowadays?? (economic professors here can chime in)


the Snap-On dealer, quickly abided by my advice......and actually gave the set of screwdrivers FREE to my newbie....something like a $60.00 value.
 
How the heck did you find that? I've mentioned before I'm no computer guru, and have a difficult time finding stuff like that, but I didn't even see a category that looked right. In fact, I still have a hard time just spelling 'IBM' .... ;)

Thanks much. jj
 
How the heck did you find that? I've mentioned before I'm no computer guru, and have a difficult time finding stuff like that, but I didn't even see a category that looked right. In fact, I still have a hard time just spelling 'IBM' .... ;)

Thanks much. jj
I copied the "Lee breech lock wrench, from Etsy.com" from Old_Me's post and searched Yahoo for that phrase. (without the quote marks)

Results had two results from etsy.com, one with aluminum in it, plus a bunch from other sites.
 
Old_Me, do you have a part # or other identifier for that wrench. I went to Etsy.com but couldn't find anything like it. Thanks. jj
yup, just go to Etsy.com, and in the search bar at the top? just type in what you want, like, reloading press tools, or Dillon reloading press tools, or Lee, or any other brand you need.

sometimes, "generic" reloading tools show up, many times, brand specific items show up
Might be this one- only black left in stock-

yes, that is the tool, at the time, they had a lot more in stock and in the 3 colors.

it must be a small mom/pop place, like many others that sell on Etsy.com.

the "all plastic" tool for the Lee dies, i am using for the Dillon press, as i do not use the Breech lock nuts, as the tiny allen lock screw interferes with the tool. this recent tool, handles that tiny allen screw by not fully encompassing the lock nut, but gets a great grip on the lock nut.

i have found great looking (and cheaper) grips, and revolver stocks on there as well as much more intricate designed ones at a very good price.

Etsy.com, has many items sometimes we need that we just don't know where to go to, to find.
 
ok, so i reloaded just over 500 rounds of 45 ACP thursday/friday/saturday.

i simply cannot sit for long periods of time on that dang bar stool.

as i was reloading, i finally ran out of the bullseye, and that ended at just a bit more than half a box of 50, at 38 rounds.

so i then poured in the titegroup, dialed in the charge (i am still doing starting charge specs), i dialed it in at 4.5 grains.

2 of my books, the Lyman says 4.5, the Lee says 4.4....

the Hodgdon site calls for 4.0 starting, and 4.8 max. so both books are with-in specs, but just above the hodgdon specs, regarding "starting charge"

anyway, took my SA Ronin to the range, with 50 rounds of Armscor new ammo as well

total of 88 rounds of the new titegroup, 50 rds, Armscor

man i gotta tell you, i thought i was in London during a huge rolling bank of fog.

that titegroup was about as bad as the bullseye in creating smoke......and lots of "black specs" all over the place on the shooting bench, like the bullseye leaves behind.

but i have to live with it, as i have an 8 lb container, i am not going to go out and spend more money on other powders.

the titegroup was all that was available anywhere i searched, or visited locally..

no powders to be found, is what i am saying.

even online, "back orders" is what i'd see on many other powders, which i was actually going to buy Win 321 as recommended by a couple of guys even the owner as well, at the mom/pop store,

but the shots were consistent, and that's what matters.

i still have like 1700 rds of bullseye i have to get thru, before i can get into the titegroup loads

i asked the owner about the Dillon's situation of dropping a primer "sideways" into the primer cup, he had no answer either as to why......

he has the motorized Dillons.
 
Well I had a Dillon and a Lee but when things happened and I went to Az for my next job I sold both presses and bought a hand loader and I have loaded some there and somewhere else along with out there and one time I did 20rds then 50 think I did 7 out there and that's the way I know do things so when the SHTF if I am still around I will put put off towards the next ridge with my loaded JHP and the FMJ thrown in a old Dodge Power wagon, handyman jack with my come a long 4 extra tires and couple rolls of tinfoil for my hat change and a case of old Number 7 which is a resort order of 12 bottles. When I get to my hide just below the snow line is where I will finish out my days. I have roamed this earth for over 30,297 day and thats where I will smoke my last cigar as I don't know alot about a lot of things but I know a little about a lot of things. I wished I could answer your question but I can't but I imagine there will be help here in the forum as I see many great answer about a lot of things.
 
yeah thanks, i have checked at least 2 you tube videos with Dillon's having this very issue, but, one video it is recommended to NOT DO as the you tuber suggests.

i did add some more grease to the rod, as it does "free float" as it is supposed to. i even "noticed" in the you tube video, (which was like 8 years old) at the top where the rod goes into the press, there is a "spacer" that prevents the rod from going deep into the press. my "spacer" is rather larger, than the one in the video.

here is that video


it could just be the primers "fell" into the blast tube and just didn't align properly in that tube. i have even had primers come out upside down, and i know darned well, i picked them up in the proper way from the primer tray.
 
Unburnt powder flakes will probably occur with low charge weights no matter what powder you choose. Upping the charge will reduce this and some might recommend using a magnum primer for more complete ignition. OTOH, changing charge weights can affect your accuracy which would be more important to me than flakes or smoke.

I switch powder, bullets and primers depending on price and availability and have to adjust when changing things up. I do not perform voluminous testing like my engineer brother would do, just go for an acceptable load that I can live with.

I get funky seating primers from time to time, but other than going through the troubleshooting section from the manual, I don't spend time agonizing over the causes.
 

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Unburnt powder flakes will probably occur with low charge weights no matter what powder you choose. Upping the charge will reduce this and some might recommend using a magnum primer for more complete ignition. OTOH, changing charge weights can affect your accuracy which would be more important to me than flakes or smoke.

I switch powder, bullets and primers depending on price and availability and have to adjust when changing things up. I do not perform voluminous testing like my engineer brother would do, just go for an acceptable load that I can live with.

I get funky seating primers from time to time, but other than going through the troubleshooting section from the manual, I don't spend time agonizing over the causes.
i thought "magnum" primers were supposed to be used for magnum rounds..???

the Hodgdon site says that 4.8 is the starting charge, where the Lyman says 4.5 and the Lee say 4.4.....

so i went with the 4.5, i suppose i could "bump up" future reloads to 4.6 maybe the 4.8....

all my books are current editions, but yes, i do know that things change, regarding charge.

i "kinda like" using starting charge specs, still for a while longer.

i wanna say that "i feel comfortable now" reloading, as long as i follow the book(s), but.......i still want to use caution.
 
It's good to have that experience reloading and by keeping up with things, you keep adding to your bag of tricks. Other reloaders may have good tips like shaking brass in hand to hear split cases, shaking a loaded round in a funnel to hear if powder is in the case or a newfangled product they discovered.
I know shooters who use a magnum primer to prevent a squib from sticking in their barrels (lead bullets). When you use lower powder charges, a magnum primer is perfectly safe. It will not blow up your gun. Honest.
I fully support using lower charges since it is easier on your gun and is more economical. My primary reason is for lower recoil which makes split times faster. A secondary reason is it is more economical to shoot less powder when you shoot thousands of rounds annually. I do enjoy big bore guns shooting full power loads. It is hard not to like the boom, felt recoil and/or flames, but that is more for occasional grins and not a daily diet.
 
ok, what i will do is, keep and eye out for magnum primers, especially Large primers.

one thing however is, are magnum primers "harder" on firing pins/strikers..???

yes, i want to make my powder purchase "last a bit longer" as well, and the lower charge does me well, in that i am only practicing/plinking, not in any sort of competition

thanks
 
I've used cci350's in 44mag for almost 40 years. With this use I didn't see where Hornady used cci300's. Some say use 1/2gr less when using mag primers, but I have yet to use any less on mag primers over non even at max book loads. I started using Sierra where in the manual it did state cci350 on test primers, but never switched when using other bullet brands. I will say that when loading for 50ae Hornady test primers aren't mags. I used 350's when loading for this cartridge at top loads and it was a little hot, but might've crimped too tight?

About Dillon 500 series,
There are several things that can/will cause primer turning/flipping issues I've discovered. Having thejust right amount of tension on the primer housing screws and keeping the primer slide square. The best solution I've found is, have it in the priming stage (handle down where primer is being installed) as so the primer slide is in the exact place where it needs to be. While the handle is in this position tighten the screws (primer housing screws) equally until just snug, then 1/4-1/2 turn more. While still in the priming stage check the clamp/bracket screw and see if it's touching the pin (primer slide post) for contact. If no adjust accordingly. Also you might need to screw it in so the primer position can be in correct array with the hole in the cartridge plate before you start the primer slide alignment. The operating rod should always be snug between the 2 rollers, but not tight or loose as in the video posted. Of the 40 years of using the same 550 I've never encountered the op rod with slack like that in the video. Dillon calls it a primer track bearing, but more of a shim. Make sure it's there (in place) also. The op rod (while in static position) should be straight down from top of hinge to the 1st bend. From there any necessary adjustments should be at the bend above the rollers. If you have the clamp/bracket screw adjusted correctly then check for ease of moving from static to priming position. If done easily with no binding when going from static to prime position the primers should never jump around.

Another cause of primers not placing correctly is the transition from the primer tube to the primer slide cup. If the slide recedes to far back the primer will flick wrong (or if you're cycling fast or not completing the transition). The plastic pin behind the spring metal will cause the flicking (so check that).

As the saying goes,
fast is fine, but accuracy (smooth) is final.....................
 
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