reloading questions/advice if you would please?

[jumpinjoe]

I saw all that and was primarily kidding about the address for 'Oblivion'. But I had forgotten the "Lee" had been bought from Midway and that it was the "Dillon" had been bought from the RSO.

But I was serious about posting a few pictures for us to gander at. And another suggestion ........ since it was actually set up by "Lee" or the folks at Midway, one or the other, maybe they would have some suggestions as to a solution. Maybe worth a try at least.

I just hated to see you be so disappointed over something that has to be such a simple solution, that's all.

 

[Old_Me]

I saw all that and was primarily kidding about the address for 'Oblivion'. But I had forgotten the "Lee" had been bought from Midway and that it was the "Dillon" had been bought from the RSO.

But I was serious about posting a few pictures for us to gander at. And another suggestion ........ since it was actually set up by "Lee" or the folks at Midway, one or the other, maybe they would have some suggestions as to a solution. Maybe worth a try at least.

I just hated to see you be so disappointed over something that has to be such a simple solution, that's all.

if i remember not to forget, i'll take the camera to the basement with me, in the morning, and take before and after pics of the starline brass, and the powder in the case, and the digital scale reading, and a 1st fired casing, with its powder reading as well.

heck, i may even include a pic or 2 of my sawz-all....all warmed up and a fresh new steel cutting blade attached.

 

[youngolddude]

As JJ suggested, I would contact Lee and ask them for assistance. Anything is frustrating when things do not happen as they should.

 

[TEXASforLIFE]

Getting the powder die set for belling can be a pita and small movements can be huge. Loosening the 2 screws/bolts just enough to rotate the die. I usually get the case set at the top of the stroke, then screw the die down until it stops. I then do 1/4 turn increments until close to where it's needed. Length of case (variances in case length) is where the amount of belling can get greater or reduced. Thickness can make it stick/hang more. More powder in the case with an auto drop type (Dillon, because that's my experience) can happen when you start the up stroke and the powder bar moves enough to let some powder fall. Say you restart the cycle after you've done this.......well you just either double charged or over charged your "set" load. When in doubt pull the locator pin, remove the case and empty the powder where you may. Some reloaders (people) don't trim pistol brass? I don't follow that practice. Semi-autos (to me) need trimmed, but revolver cases not so much as long as they're not over length. Maybe those people don't want to take the time to trim?

 

[Old_Me]

Getting the powder die set for belling can be a pita and small movements can be huge. Loosening the 2 screws/bolts just enough to rotate the die. I usually get the case set at the top of the stroke, then screw the die down until it stops. I then do 1/4 turn increments until close to where it's needed. Length of case (variances in case length) is where the amount of belling can get greater or reduced. Thickness can make it stick/hang more. More powder in the case with an auto drop type (Dillon, because that's my experience) can happen when you start the up stroke and the powder bar moves enough to let some powder fall. Say you restart the cycle after you've done this.......well you just either double charged or over charged your "set" load. When in doubt pull the locator pin, remove the case and empty the powder where you may. Some reloaders (people) don't trim pistol brass? I don't follow that practice. Semi-autos (to me) need trimmed, but revolver cases not so much as long as they're not over length. Maybe those people don't want to take the time to trim?

yeah, on the Lee, i have to loosen the lock nut, then lift out the powder assembly, then rotate the entire drum body with-in that threaded Lee quick change insert, a turn or 2.

different than the Dillon.

thanks to the lights i installed, i do look into the cases, EACH case for a charge. i'd say about every 20? powder drops, i remove a case and get it onto the scale to check for accuracy of the charge.

i have asked here, and a few other places, as well as reloaders in person, and none of them trim any case, unless it is rifle.

i suppose i could "look" into trimming tools, just to check on costs. but since so many others do not trim pistol brass............

i'll start from "square 1" again this morning, although it befuddles me why this even happened.

on another "note", i went ahead and ordered a 9mm shell plate from Lee (cheapest pricing) and a set of Lee 9mm dies from Midway, (cheaper pricing, and availability).

may take nearly 2 weeks in total, when they arrive, the Lee gets switched over to dedicated 9mm.

i have so many other dies, (all pistol) and tool heads for the Dillon (including a tool head/die set now with 9mm), that i wish NOT to remove, and keep it set up for future use, on the Dillon..

i'll also take measurements of bot the used (first fired) brass, all name brands, like S&B, Winchester, Federal, etc, and then of the Starline, and post that here as well.

gonna be a very busy Sunday, gran-kids are coming over to terrorize the Mrs, and run away from me, when i give them the stink-eye.....

i'll post late.

thanks everyone.

 

[Old_Me]

Goal reached......2,000 rounds 45 ACP, thanks to the Dillon.

i gave it some thoughts, and since i have on order a shell plate and dies for 9mm to go into the Lee, i just wasn't gonna mess around with it anymore.

besides, in short time, the tiny terrorists will be here, and i'd not want to be in a foul mood, if i had to deal with that Lee.

 

[jumpinjoe]

Getting the powder die set for belling can be a pita and small movements can be huge. Loosening the 2 screws/bolts just enough to rotate the die. I usually get the case set at the top of the stroke, then screw the die down until it stops. I then do 1/4 turn increments until close to where it's needed. Length of case (variances in case length) is where the amount of belling can get greater or reduced. Thickness can make it stick/hang more. More powder in the case with an auto drop type (Dillon, because that's my experience) can happen when you start the up stroke and the powder bar moves enough to let some powder fall. Say you restart the cycle after you've done this.......well you just either double charged or over charged your "set" load. When in doubt pull the locator pin, remove the case and empty the powder where you may. Some reloaders (people) don't trim pistol brass? I don't follow that practice. Semi-autos (to me) need trimmed, but revolver cases not so much as long as they're not over length. Maybe those people don't want to take the time to trim?

Two really good points ......
1 - Make only very small adjustments at any one time to the dies, no matter which one but especially the powder drop die and measure.
2 - I've suggested/recommended earlier in days past to trip cases destines for semi-auto pistols. I know it's not always needed, but since most of them headspace on the case mouth, it ensures more consistency in the final product.

 

[jumpinjoe]

Old_Me, if you're turning the powder through expanding die a turn or two as you said here: "yeah, on the Lee, i have to loosen the lock nut, then lift out the powder assembly, then rotate the entire drum body with-in that threaded Lee quick change insert, a turn or 2." that could explain the issue of the charge going from 4.0gr to 1.4gr. A lot depends on the relationship you have in your die to measure adjustment. The 'Auto Drum' measure is very sensitive to how deep you turn it into the die, but that's a good thing in that it provides for very accurate charges.

Even 1/8 turn can and will make a noticeable change in the powder charge, especially when using ball powders, but typically the biggest difference will be in the amount of case 'bell' you'll see.

 

[Old_Me]

the owner/reloader of the bait shop, gave me his "recipe" for his gun lube, and i made up a bottle's worth.

1 bottle of HEET gasoline anti-freeze...(red bottle) and it is a 12 ounce bottle
1 ounce of aloe

spray 2-3 shots into a plastic bag, dump in shell casings, in this instance i only dumped in 100 of the new Starline

shake, empty out, let dry.

seems to have worked, i used the Dillon again.

reason why i say "seems to have worked".......it seemed like i didn't need to use too much pressure on the ram handle.

very loose grip.

i'll try it more, especially when the Lee 9mm parts come in.

but i think too, that maybe i could have lubed many more casings, as there is residue in the plastic bag

another thing i did later was to cut up a hard metal screening material, bend it, fit it into the plastic container.

as there was residue in the bottom of it, resulting in some of the casings to sit in a "puddle"

this will now allow the mix to fall to the bottom, allowing the cases to dry faster, without sitting in puddles.

the owner gave me a bunch of small metal balls, to put into the spray bottle to "agitate" the mix..

and to measure 1 ounce, one of those medicine bottle caps, works great, 30mL comes super close to 1 ounce.

 

[Old_Me]

i am getting the Lee ready for the 9mm plate, and dies.

this ball bearing in the carrier, do you guys lube it, and if so with what?

grease, oil..??

thanks in advance

 

[youngolddude]

No, it will just gather more crap.

 

[TEXASforLIFE]

As long as you can keep it clear and clean you should be good to go! I do use a graphite lube for the ram and with the "C" dillon model it has zerts, but not gunna use grease. I'll disassemble for maintenance.

 

[Pitdogg2]

Are you using carbide dies on the Lee and Dillon?
I've loaded tens of thousands of handgun rounds on my Dillon, I've yet to ever use lube on the cases. I've also kept my Dillon well lubed on the important parts. Not one of those parts sheds any oil anywhere near the case work area, only the ram and sliding parts on the primer and powder dispenser.

 

[Old_Me]

As long as you can keep it clear and clean you should be good to go! I do use a graphite lube for the ram and with the "C" dillon model it has zerts, but not gunna use grease. I'll disassemble for maintenance.

i read the owners manuals, on both. i use a 30w STP oil for the ram on each..i apply a small amount, wipe it all over each ram, then lightly wipe off some, just like when we lube our guns, we are told to wipe off, just enough to leave a "film".

then i make sure to wipe the bases of the presses for any runoff oil.

my DIllon only has 1 grease fitting

Are you using carbide dies on the Lee and Dillon?
I've loaded tens of thousands of handgun rounds on my Dillon, I've yet to ever use lube on the cases. I've also kept my Dillon well lubed on the important parts. Not one of those parts sheds any oil anywhere near the case work area, only the ram and sliding parts on the primer and powder dispenser.

yes, one of the many things i read up on, before getting into reloading is the use of carbide dies.

if i can make the reloading process "smoother", and lubing the dies works, then i'll keep at it.

the aloe/alcohol mix seems to be working thus far on the DIllon, in a few minutes, i have to set up the Lee with the new 9mm shell plate, and the dies that came in yesterday as well.

then "test reload" maybe a full 50 rounds to get to the range next week?

 

[TEXASforLIFE]

i read the owners manuals, on both. i use a 30w STP oil for the ram on each..i apply a small amount, wipe it all over each ram, then lightly wipe off some, just like when we lube our guns, we are told to wipe off, just enough to leave a "film".

then i make sure to wipe the bases of the presses for any runoff oil.

my DIllon only has 1 grease fitting





yes, one of the many things i read up on, before getting into reloading is the use of carbide dies.

if i can make the reloading process "smoother", and lubing the dies works, then i'll keep at it.

the aloe/alcohol mix seems to be working thus far on the DIllon, in a few minutes, i have to set up the Lee with the new 9mm shell plate, and the dies that came in yesterday as well.

then "test reload" maybe a full 50 rounds to get to the range next week?

Some just gets to be a how we feel like maintaining it type, rather than recommendations. Just like case lube to motor oil. Climate you live in (more like I) drives my decisions.

 

[Old_Me]

Some just gets to be a how we feel like maintaining it type, rather than recommendations. Just like case lube to motor oil. Climate you live in (more like I) drives my decisions.

yeah, this time of year, we don't have much (if any humidity)...but this past 2 weeks would say that i am lying, as we had temps near to 80....and "some" humidity.

so like my guns, where i run an oily patch thru the barrels, and occasionally wipe them down with food grade mineral oil, i immediately got into a habit of cleaning, and lightly lubing the presses.

only takes a few minutes after i vacuum the bench, floor and general area.

 

[Old_Me]

well, the Lee was set up, and that took me quite a while.

i went thru like 20 casings, and nearly the same number of lead bullets, to dial in all the stations.

i ran off 50 of the 9mm, in first fired brass, of different brands, from my own S&B, Remington, Federal, and whatever was swept up as well.

i did crush 1 case.....ooops......

after i get to test out these 50 rounds, next week, i'll start producing "up to" 500 rounds, as i have a lot of new ammo right now. plus, i have to wait for the styrofoam container/cardboard boxes from Midway.

starting charge as per the Lyman book, 3.4 gr.

i also ordered up a Lyman, hand held trimming tool set, attaches to a drill or a handle.

i'll practice trimming some cases

 

[jumpinjoe]

Old_Me, in loading this 50 rnds, did you have the earlier problem of lifting the table off the floor? Here's a really basic question and probably doesn't even apply, but if/when you remove any die from the "Lee", I know with using the breech lock bushings you just turn them about 120degrees and lift them out with the bushing, but are you replacing them to the same 120 degree position you removed them from. I'm not sure it makes a difference, but consistency is the key in my book.

And if/when adjusting the die, do you just loosen the set screw and turn the die appropriately while still an assembly within the bushing, without removing the assembly from the press, or do you remove the entire bushing from the press before you make the adjustment? BTW, I use the bushings/die combination on my 'O' frame, single stage press and really like the convenience. I don't need it on my 'turret' press 'cause there are positions for all 4 of the dies. Once all 4 dies are adjusted properly, it's a matter of lifting the turret out and replacing it with another with dies of another caliber. I'm equating that similar to the 'tool head' of the "Dillon" that holds the dies. Is that correct?

Anyway, that's a really good feature of the 'breech lock' press. Once the dies of your caliber are properly adjusted and tightened into the bushing, you can remove/replace them as often as necessary with no worry about them getting out of adjustment. With that capability and the appropriate shell plate, it makes it a snap to change from one caliber to another.

I'm sure there are other brands of press that use something similar to the "Lee" breech lock bushings, I'm just not familiar with them.

 

[Old_Me]

1) Old_Me, in loading this 50 rnds, did you have the earlier problem of lifting the table off the floor? Here's a really basic question and probably doesn't even apply, but if/when you remove any die from the "Lee", I know with using the breech lock bushings you just turn them about 120degrees and lift them out with the bushing, but are you replacing them to the same 120 degree position you removed them from. I'm not sure it makes a difference, but consistency is the key in my book.

2) And if/when adjusting the die, do you just loosen the set screw and turn the die appropriately while still an assembly within the bushing, without removing the assembly from the press, or do you remove the entire bushing from the press before you make the adjustment? BTW, I use the bushings/die combination on my 'O' frame, single stage press and really like the convenience. I don't need it on my 'turret' press 'cause there are positions for all 4 of the dies. Once all 4 dies are adjusted properly, it's a matter of lifting the turret out and replacing it with another with dies of another caliber. I'm equating that similar to the 'tool head' of the "Dillon" that holds the dies. Is that correct?

Anyway, that's a really good feature of the 'breech lock' press. Once the dies of your caliber are properly adjusted and tightened into the bushing, you can remove/replace them as often as necessary with no worry about them getting out of adjustment. With that capability and the appropriate shell plate, it makes it a snap to change from one caliber to another.

I'm sure there are other brands of press that use something similar to the "Lee" breech lock bushings, I'm just not familiar with them.

1) nope, no lifting of the bench, all smooth sailing.

2) yes, all i did was tighten up the set screws when the dies were adjusted.

on mine, the turret is non-removable....just the dies within the bushings come out. and yes, the DIllon has removable tool heads where the pre-set dies stay.


getting back to #1....when i removed the powder drop to adjust for the new Starline brass..??

i had to loosen the lock screw on the locking nut, so it would rotate up (or down) depending on adjustments.

 

[Old_Me]

well that sucked...

got my Kimber 1911, and ammo (45 ACP of course)

got my CZ 75B, and my newly reloaded 9 mm ammo to test

got to the range...

they changed thier hours, from 9AM till 10......so i left and went to my club.

got to my club, and unpacked my bag

Kimber and ammo...check

CZ and the ammo i made the past 2 days.......uh..............HELLLOOOOOO...????

WHERE'S MY RELOADED 9 MM AMMO...???

at home, sitting on the reloading bench in thier boxes.....

well, the KImber shoots great, with reloaded and new ammo

the CZ shoots great...WHEN I REMEMBER TO TAKE MY AMMO.........!!!!!!!!